just wondering how many amps does a stock alternator pump out at idle? and at what rpm till it hits 105amps?
Also, i was wondering why z24 have 105 amp alternators, its a lot more than some of the other cars out there, how many amp does the car actually use on a daily drive? just wondering how many amps i have left for my system
My alternator died after about 53,000 miles cause of my system
thats what you get for not using a good battery and capacitors
my car has 114,000 miles and the alt still runs strong and i have a 1800watt system but i also have a 720cca battery and 2 1 farad caps all of which help the altenator stay alive
2000 Dark metallica green cavalier. (2.2 2200) pace setter 4-1 header, magna flow high flow cat, dual quad tip dtm muffler, momo 16in rims, rk sport strut bar, rear vibrant strut bar, Floor bar stablizer, Crossdilled slotted roters with ceramic brake pads, 14lb.carbon fiber oem style hood, rsm lightened crank pulley, MSD Blaster2 Ignition coil packs, RSM Vortech Supercharger 8psi, 300cc venom injectors....
in another few months i will get the built short black from jbodyperformance.com
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i have heard from www.sounddomain.com that caps actually put more strain on your Alternator, i didnt believe it at first, but their are tons of posts on this and they all say that Caps on a stock alt will put more strain on it, they say to just do the big 3 and a upgraded alternator.
anyone else have any input on this?
and back to my original question, does anyone know how many amps does a stock alt pump out at idle? i just want to compair it to another alt im gonna buy. and i cant test it cause i dont have access to it for another month.
a cap will not make your electrical system last longer.
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i just went throw this, my system was melting alternators. the stock alternator only makes 105 amps at a max. GM only maid it to work at 70% or around there. the biggest alternator i could get would be 120amps, i couldn't get any bigger due to the size of it the heat would cause it to melt down, anyways to correct my problem i had to add and Isolator and another batter with a 5 Ferret Cap
the 2.2L, and 2.4L's have a good source of HO alts.. Up to 200amps, for the "small case" alternators.. I haven't found a company that supplies HO alts for the Eco though..
120amps isn't pushing the limits of anything.. The "Small case" alts can be built to 200amps(that's also anywhere from 90-120amps at idle).. The "large case" alts used on GM trucks and such can be built to at least 300amps that I know of.. I believe the 2.2 OHV's have the room to use a modified large case alt.
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"If life throws you a curve, pop the clutch and drift it!"
hmmm i have a 260 amp alt so I would just like youto know you got shaftedon your alts. And a cap is just another piece to charge in your system. thinkof it. it may be charged from, the jump but whathappens when your car needs the juice it needs to power the car. it pulls it from the cap and then it needs to be recharged too. Dont put a bandaid on something that needs stitches.
Iraggi makes at least 200a alts maybe even 250, For ECOtec's.
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<--Iraggi i sthe only one that does as of right now.
got a link?
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e-mail: bretharbison@comcast.net
he deals with sales iirc. i have one from them seems to be pretty good. its fits perfectly (valeo housing of course) i got a 180a/120a idle for my 2003 ECOtec Cavalier....lates!
i have a 200amp Iraggi for my 2.4 the output is really good even at idle
n8ball2013 wrote:hmmm i have a 260 amp alt so I would just like youto know you got shaftedon your alts. And a cap is just another piece to charge in your system. thinkof it. it may be charged from, the jump but whathappens when your car needs the juice it needs to power the car. it pulls it from the cap and then it needs to be recharged too. Dont put a bandaid on something that needs stitches.
Best Explanation EVER. Capacitors are band-aid fixes for a weak electrical system. Only reason i'd get a capacitor is as a filter for an extremely high powered system that would draw 100 amps or more.
and technically, your alternator is always at maximum output. All new cars are. Alternators are Pulse Width Modulated. Which means either they're full on, or off. The Voltage Regulator just changes it's frequency based on electrical loads.
You can't really say "how many amps does the car use in a daily drive." There are SO many variables that you can't possibly answer that question. All the current flow in a car comes from the battery. Not the alternator. Doesn't matter whether the car is on or not. It all comes from the battery. The alternator just recharges the battery. If the drain on the electrical system is less then 105 amps, your alternator will keep charging the battery. Anything more, and you'll be draining the battery, because the alternator won't be able to keep up. But you gotta have a pretty hardcore system to draw more then that 100% of the time. Most music i've heard has bass lines that pound and then stop. The pauses in between will allow the alternator to keep up. But like Tood Nixon said, your alternator won't last long.
Capacitors DO NOT increase the load capacity of an electrical system. They increase the amount of AVAILABLE power. A Capacitor is like a battery, except a lead-acid battery is designed for slow constant cycles(charging/discharging) and a capacitor is made for quick cycles. Releasing ALL it's power in quick bursts and the recharging instantly. Capacitors are also good because they absorb voltage spikes and dips and such. I still stand by n8ball2013. Capacitors are a bandaid fix for a weak electrical system. The Alternator now not only has to keep the Battery charged... it has to keep those capacitors charged.
You could pretty much run what you want. I have installed an Alpine MRD-M500 which pulls about 60 amps on hard bass lines, but the 60 amp drain isn't constant, because the bass lines aren't constant. This is on an S-10, but I think he has the same 105 amp alternator. He's been running for 2 years. so take what you will from that. My car's been running for 3 years with my current system. It draws about 40 amps.
I could go on for YEARS about electrical system of a car... but moral of the Story? Get an Optima Yellow Top. Or some other Deep Cycle battery. That will do for most of what you are going to use. If you have more then 2000 bucks into your system, that means you're buying high quality stuff and should look into beefing up your alternator.
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try this, havnt tried it on cars newer them like 98 or so. but i can start my car, unplug the battery, and the car will still be running, ive used this method to jump a friends car. his battery died, so i took my battery, hooked it up to his car, he started the car, then i took the battery out and put it back in my car, and he drove it home.
when the car is on, its running off the alternator no off the battery.
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Croatian Z24 wrote:i have heard from www.sounddomain.com that caps actually put more strain on your Alternator, i didnt believe it at first, but their are tons of posts on this and they all say that Caps on a stock alt will put more strain on it, they say to just do the big 3 and a upgraded alternator.
anyone else have any input on this?
and back to my original question, does anyone know how many amps does a stock alt pump out at idle? i just want to compair it to another alt im gonna buy. and i cant test it cause i dont have access to it for another month.
I went to JL AUDIO in April, and I went through the SCHOOL OF SOUND, and that is exactly right, the best way to get more power is right from the source. There is a place here in Flint that rebuilds your alternator, I just had mine upgraded to 200amps.
Ok I'm not an expert on any of this but I just wanted to throw in a question here. What if you got a higher capacity aftermarket battery in combination with an upgraded alternator? Would that help solve the power issues or maybe help lighten the load a little bit for the alt? I'm a newb so what do I know? Just thought it wouldn't hurt to ask.
yes. a better battery and a HO Alt will definetly help in a huge way, but dont forget to upgrade the big 3.
the big 3 wires in the engine:
1. upgrade battery ground
2. upgrade engine ground
3. upgrade wire from batt to alt wire.
rapfiend03 wrote:the big 3 wires in the engine:
1. upgrade battery ground
2. upgrade engine ground
3. upgrade wire from batt to alt wire.
Gotcha. Learn something new everyday.
ya man info helps alot lol
i found this when i was rumagging through my e-mail:
2003 Chevy Cavalier ECOtec
"Dominator" Series
180amp / 80amp idle $279.00
200amp / 70amp idle $299.00
The Dominator Series comes with a 30 day warranty. If you want the one year warranty, add $49.00, Lifetime Warranty & Exchange Program add $99.00
"Amputator" Series
180amp / 120amp idle $349.00
200amp / 110amp idle $369.00
The Amputator Series comes with a one year warranty, You can upgrade to Lifetime Warranty & Exchange Program for $99.00
enjoy and Lates!