I had a question and hopefully I can get a bunch of info in helping me to succeed in life, lol, or rather, have my car handle a 100 shot.
I'm running on a stock 2.2L OHV engine and currently i have a 50 Shot. My question is, What modifications would I have to do to the engine to handle a 100 shot without the engine taking a crap on me? What parts and/or performance ad ons i'm i looking to upgrade and purchase? And, would i have to upgrade anything on my stock 3spd auto transmission?
Also, has anyone that is reading this ran a 100 shot and can tell me from experience how it feels? Just curious. haha.
Thanks guys. Any help and advice is appreciated.
Jay
bottom end. head work. fuel upgrades...
What type of head work? Port & Polish? And what do you mean by bottom end?
better valves, springs ......probably...and rods crank studs......
My car may run 18s, but I can do your taxes in 10 seconds flat.
JBO lube - they would never have enough in stock and we'd never see RodimusPrime again
take the head to a machine shop and have .005 or .010 taken off
15.2@89mph 2.171 60ft. 9.830 1/8 R.I.P. "LULU"
some have ran 100 shot on a 2.2l min youll need is upgrade fuel pump ,adfpr ,msd ign coils , 1 stage colder plugs . i ran a 100 shot on my car before swapping eng my specs were msd coils magnecor wires ngk tr6 plugs 2 1/2 exhaust ,rc 195cc inj , adfpr at 55 psi , p/p head , and a walbro 255 intank pump . maybe a little over kill but it was prep for the new engine . pm me if you need any other help .
13's or blowning it. wayhttp://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e175/slowfire99/100_0463.jpg
bballjamal ran with way less mods then anything that was listed. I think he had pp head, intake, catback exhaust, plugs, wires, and a 100 shot wet. He hit around 230 whp on a dyno. I think he would be the one to talk to.
Sweet, thanks for all the info guys. And if you have more input, please do say.
.020" Cometic gasket, ARP head studs, MSD coilpacks, colder plugs, fuel pump, GOOD tires
How many miles on the tranny?
fortune cookie say:
better a delay than a disaster.
79,000 but its a 3spd Auto
My friends put a 125 shot dry kit for a Z28 on a 96 Cav 4 dr. 2.2L auto. It doesn't even have working reverse and they said they didn't care if it died. I know the bottle was full but it probably wasn't up to pressure right because they did this during the winter time and had no bottle heater. This was the most ghetto setup ever. They cut a hole in the intake tube, stuck the nitrous nozzle in it. Wired up the solenoids to the battery and a hand held switch. One guy drove and the other guy sat shotgun with the bottle in his lap. When the driver went wide open the passenger hit the switch and got the shot.
They ran 2 bottles through it and it's still running. They told me it would spin the tires from a 30 mph roll just by flooring it and hitting the nitrous. They said they let the trans stay in D and shift itself. It was a wet kit with the fuel line capped off. I don't even know if they had a vacuum line run to the FPR to kick up pressure.
I was supposed to race them in my 96 Z24 but it rained and then they took the kit off to install it on the one guys Z28 the right way. They were just bored one day and wanted to see if the cav could take it. I live like 45 minutes away from them and the day I came down to race it started to pour rain.
I wanted to see it throw a rod so I could laugh but I never got the chance.
I have no idea what the A:F ratio was, what the fuel pressure was, what the bottle pressure was, or how much it actually sprayed. They said it had the 125 nitrous jet in nozzle and a full 10 lb. bottle. Bone stock car, paper air filter, original plugs, 100k+ miles, reverse in the trans isn't working. Just a beater winter pos cavalier to get to and from work in.
So there results aren't typical and I wouldn't recommend trying anything over a 50 shot but thats my advice.
I'd say you need a bigger fuel pump and I would dyno test it to monitor A:F ratio with a wideband on the first few pulls before you go out spraying 100 shot all over the place not knowing what your air/fuel looks like. I'd also recommend a catless free flow exhaust, forged rods and pistons (and crank if you can get one). Colder plugs are a must too and not platinum plugs because the nitrous can cause the platinum coating to flake off the plug. I'd run copper plugs, smaller gap, 1-2 heat ranges colder, and if you can figure out how to pull about 4 degrees of timing when spraying the 100 shot.
Scott
2002 Audi S4, black
1996 Z24 auto, red
surprised they didn't blow that car up!
15.2@89mph 2.171 60ft. 9.830 1/8 R.I.P. "LULU"
Make sure you have enough fuel, thats the deadly thing.
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I was thinking of this too, although I was going to put JE forged pistons, h-beam rods in mine to help it hold up. Bottom end work is where you need it. Also a very strong head gasket
good rod bolts (ARP's) and
progessive nitrous controller i really never like to shoot more than 50 w/o a progressive controller on 4 cylinders because 75 ft lbs applied to crankshaft in a matter of a few rotations = not good, less stress
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EFFICIENCY DETECTIVE
Fast cars. I respect them ALL. Brand elitism is for fanbois and benchracers
daily: 99 civic Si
deceased: 95 cavy '00 LD9 auto swap (vandalized)
you can run a 100 shot stock but make sure you have enough fuel going in with the nitrous, that is the killer of most nitrous motors, and the cooler plugs are another must
fully built 2200-TO4E T3/T4-HP tuners-373hp @18psi
^ kavykid whats the secret to ur 239hp N/A ln2 build........
JUCNBST wrote:^ kavykid whats the secret to ur 239hp N/A ln2 build........
It's definately the Venom "performance chip"
fortune cookie say:
better a delay than a disaster.
^ lol wonder if they work on carberated vehicals too....might pick up a pair for the caprice.
12.1-1 comp ratio
h-beam rods
eagle crank shaft
stage two cam
i am not just another stuiped kid
my 14 second baha doesnt think so either
fully built 2200-TO4E T3/T4-HP tuners-373hp @18psi
i hit post too soon,
i got the motor from JBP
aem cai
obx header
2.5 in exhuast
fuel injectors
and Hp tuners
there is more goodies and the list goes on and on, but when i go to the dyno later on again this week there will be pictures
fully built 2200-TO4E T3/T4-HP tuners-373hp @18psi
lmao i gotta see ur dyno numbers after u do that.... for your info u ain breakin 200hp
KavyKidLN2 wrote:12.1-1 comp ratio
h-beam rods
eagle crank shaft
stage two cam
i am not just another stuiped kid
my 14 second baha doesnt think so either
You let JBP put it up your butt, sorry. Eagle never has and never will make a crankshaft for the LN2, regardless of how much $$$$ you have.
Not to mention 12.1:1 would require race gas on a stock chamber 2.2L (you need to list headgasket specifications, as well as chamber work to refute this), and there's no way your daily driving race gas while working as a lube-monkey...
fortune cookie say:
better a delay than a disaster.
KavyKid- I haven't heard of nor seen anybody make that much N/A on an Ln2 So I find 239 all motor hard to beleive. I'm interested in any other specs you got on ur cav. I like the profile on ur bug I've always wanted an old school bug since i was little. Got any pics of it?