RECOMMENDED BOTTLE PRESSURE IS AROUND 900 OR 950. SO IF YOU HAVE A HUNDRED HORSEPOWER NORMALLY AT 1000 PSI BOTTLE PRESURE IF YOU LET BOTTLE PRESSURE GET DOWN TO 500 YOUR RUNNING ABOUT 50 HORSEPOWER. YOU CAN USE THIS TO YOUR ADVANTAGE. MY DISADVANTAGE WAS I NORMALLY RAN 650 PSI 100 SHOT ON 2.4 CAVY. TOOK ADVICE TO HEAT TO 950 AND BLEW MY ENGINE DO TO TO MUCH NITROUS. BOTTLE PRESSURE DOES MAKE A DIFFERENCE? A LITTLE KNOWN FACT !
LOUD NOISES
My car may run 18s, but I can do your taxes in 10 seconds flat.
JBO lube - they would never have enough in stock and we'd never see RodimusPrime again
ACTUALLY IS VERY WELL KNOWN FACT. MORE PRESSURE = MORE NITROUS **SHOULD** BE COMON SENCE. THIS IS WHY YOU ALWAYS HEAR PEOPLE SAY DON'T USE NITORUS UNTILL YOU DO RESEARCH AND KNOW WHAT YOUR DOING IT. NITROUS IS NOT DANGEROUS, A CRAPPY SETUP AND IDIOT USING IT IS, JUST LIEK WITH ANY OTHER TYPE OF POWER ADDER.
PS..... TURN OFF YOUR FAWKING CAPS LOCK
kthanks
chris donaldson wrote: BOTTLE PRESSURE DOES MAKE A DIFFERENCE A LITTLE KNOWN FACT !
um.....DUH!!!
Im a Xbox 360 fanboy...and damn proud of it!!
i'm sorry.... i just can't help but laugh at all this... but yes... pressure makes a difference... a WELL KNOWN difference... but you shoulda realized that before you installed the kit... and thus... 2 Points for Darwin!
http://www.motortopia.com/cavyfreak442/cars
Best ET to Date: 14.251 @ 98.51 mph. 13's or Bust Baby!
sorry, my question is, does anyone know the hp vs bottle pressure math. a 100 horse jet rated for 1000 bottle pressure for example, would it be 50 hp at 500 psi?
I doubt the math is linear.
Get a bottle heater and base your jet sizes off of that.
Very true, I also dought if its linear. I always run a bottle warmer to around 925. But I was hoping someone knew the math behind hp vs pressure.
if u were tryin to correct him on doubt then your a nub. he spelled it right. If not, CARRY ON WITH YOUR CONVERSATION
damn i just got my kit and even I knew that...
i spelled doubt wrong. chill
i'm chill. the way you underlined it made it look like you were trying to correct the way he spelled it, which would have been funny.
I don't think running the bottle to 2000+psi will do anything
:scratches head:
N2O + Bolt-ons
= 220Hp/
250Tq
Coming Soon:HpTunersPro, EagleConnectingRods, WiescoPistons, 13sec2200
Dude you never ran your spray at 2000 psi before??? It feels like you've got two of the big ones. Your missin out.
I GOT NAWS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
YOU'LL BLOW YOSELF TO PIECES!!! :O
NAWS FTW!
the lemur wrote:Dude you never ran your spray at 2000 psi before??? It feels like you've got two of the big ones. Your missin out.
omg i think im gonna die of laughing. seriously i feel chest pains
OHH GOD LMFAO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
*feels heart burst*
@ 0psi NOS is liquid at -127°F
@ 760psi NOS is liquid at 70°F
Anyone want to hazard a guess as to what temp NOS stays a liquid at 500 psi?
or even why that would be important?
sig not found
because if it freezes it becomes eaven cooler, stoping flow.
Chris
'02 Z-24 Supercharged
13.7 @102.45 MPH Third Place, 2007 GMSC Bash SOLD AS OF 01MAR08
At 500psi Nitrous oxide boils at about 3° F.
Pressure and temperature are related if there is enough nitrous in the container to have some remain liquid.
If you take a full bottle and freeze it to -127° then the bottle pressure would be 0psi because alll the nitrous inside has turned to liquid.
As the temperature increases, the liquid will begin to vaporize until it either raises the tank pressure to a pressure where it won't boil anymore, or it runs out of liquid.
So if the full tank at -127° was raised to 3°, the liquid in the tank would begin to boil wildly until the pressure inside the tank got near 500psi and would not stop boiling completely until it gained enough pressure to match the temp.
The standard Nitrous kit pressure of 900-950 psi relates to a temperature of 95-115°.
This is the standard because everything in the kit: the tank, lines, solenoids, nozzles are not very likely to be hotter than that. With 950psi available, there is no real opportunity for any nitrous to vaporize inside the lines, etc while on its way to the injector. If by chance some did vaporize, then it can be dumped with a purge valve.
In order to make a decent amount of power, the nitrous has to be injected as a liquid. It is many times more dense as a liquid than it is as a gas, so the best power will be made when injecting it as a liquid.
Regulating the tank down to 500psi will require the whole system after the regulator to be kept below 3° to acheive a regular amout of liquid flow.
sig not found
^^^^^^ Couldn't have said it better myself! Good job, Todd.
As far as HP to psi relations, cavalier z24, it most certainly is NOT linear. 500 psi would not be a 50 shot. Honestly, it would probably be lower than that, especially on a wet kit. You may actually lose HP with a low bottle pressure if you are still spraying enough fuel in there to support the original HP shot the kit was intended to deliver. When I ran a 100 shot, I had the car on the dyno and played around with different bottle pressures. On one run, I had just over 900 psi in the bottle and got 217 whp. The next run was at 1050 psi and I got 231 whp. On the 75 shot I had one size to large a fuel jet in (because I was paraniod) and it would take off like a rocket, but then fall flat on it's face once the fuel started loading up and puddling in the intake manifold. Those were back in the nitrous newb days for me (many years ago, lol) I'm just glad I never blew the crappy plastic intake clean off with that kind of nonsense.
Oh, and 2000 psi in a bottle would be super cool, especially in a standard aluminum bottle rated for 1800 psi. That would be nice to get on video as long as no one died in the process from all the shrapnel. Not to mention that at that pressure, any bottle that hasn't been overfilled would all be gaseous nitrous anyway, so the added pressure wouldn't mean anything.
