Ok. I have read on here many times that running only a 50 shot I dont need to retard my timing any. Only need 1 step colder plugs. Yet everywhere I else I read including other forums say I should retard it at least 1 degree, if not 2. Also many people ehre say the gap on the NGK TR6 plugs is already closed enough so I wont need to regap them, but things are said differently elsewhere. So I ask this, which freaking one is it lol.

for a 50 shot, you dont need any timing retard, in my opinion. Use 93 octane and you should be ok... a wet kit also removes some of the difficulty in preventing detonation.... i wouldnt really recommend dry unless you dont have much of a choice. Plus, its not the easiest thing to retard timing on our cars...

does anyone know how to retard the timing
do you need an msd with a timing controler or can you do it with out

MSD DIS-2... it has switches you need to set... you can retard timing in 1-degree increments all the way to like 30 degrees if you wanted to.

I ran an 85-hp ZEX dry shot... but with the MSD of course.. and I never had any problems.

All the people I've talked to that have blown up an engine... none of them had any timing retard...

so... figure it out yourself




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rob wrote:a wet kit also removes some of the difficulty in preventing detonation....

How????

rob wrote: i wouldnt really recommend dry unless you dont have much of a choice.

Why????




- 93 mph in the 1/8 mile
Member of J-Body Of Michigan.

first one... nitrous goes in with along with just the right amount of fuel (unless you mess up the jets), so you usually dont need to worry about being too lean. i havent had personal experience with dry kits, but it seems that its much less easier to screw up the install of a wet system, as working on a dry kit involves a bit more wit h the fuel system, and ive heard from people who have had bad experience with blowing their engines from lean conditions. as i said though, no actual personal experience.

second.. because of reason number one...

rob wrote:first one... nitrous goes in with along with just the right amount of fuel (unless you mess up the jets), so you usually dont need to worry about being too lean. i havent had personal experience with dry kits, but it seems that its much less easier to screw up the install of a wet system, as working on a dry kit involves a bit more wit h the fuel system, and ive heard from people who have had bad experience with blowing their engines from lean conditions. as i said though, no actual personal experience.

second.. because of reason number one...

Don't post if you don't know what you are talking about. Dry systems add the same amount of addition fuel as wet systems so there is no reason to worry about being too lean with them either. There is actaully more involved with a wet kit than there is with a dry kit relating to the fuel system. In a wet you need to tap into the fuel line somewhere as well as using a 2nd solenoid to spray the fuel, with a dry kit you just need to attach a vacuum line to the FPR to allow it to raise fuel presure.

Do a little research before you attempt to give people instructions.




- 93 mph in the 1/8 mile
Member of J-Body Of Michigan.

i'm gonna go with rob's opinion on this one. a wet kit pre-mixes the fuel with the nitrous, so you shouldn't have to worry about running lean. a dry kit has a better chance of not getting enough fuel to the the combustion chambers and if that happens..... boom!! direct port mixes the fuel and nitrous for each chamber, therefore you don't have to worry about running lean in one chamber.

The ONLY time you could potentially run lean with a dry setup is if you spray outside of Wide Open Throttle. As long as the throttle is to the floor, your car is DUMPING fuel, and the vacuum line boosts the pressure even higher.

When someone blows their motor with a dry kit, it's probably because they either had a HUGE jet in, the internals couldn't handle it, or some other factor like they were on less than 93 octane or had a bad set of (too hot) plugs.

This has nothing to do with the post BUT AO^^^^^ i absolutely love everything about your car!


N2O + Bolt-ons = 220Hp/250Tq

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Stephen Gray wrote:i'm gonna go with rob's opinion on this one. a wet kit pre-mixes the fuel with the nitrous, so you shouldn't have to worry about running lean. a dry kit has a better chance of not getting enough fuel to the the combustion chambers and if that happens..... boom!! direct port mixes the fuel and nitrous for each chamber, therefore you don't have to worry about running lean in one chamber.

Actually a dry kit is closer in theory to a direct port because it rasies your fuel pressure when the nitrous is sprayed so the extra fuel you need sprayed directly into the head ports from the stock fuel injectors. On a wet system fuel is forced to flow threw the intake manifold which is NOT designed to flow fuel, therefor you run the rish of fuel puddling in the intake manifold and having a wicked backfire.




- 93 mph in the 1/8 mile
Member of J-Body Of Michigan.

Skilz10179 wrote:

rob wrote:first one... nitrous goes in with along with just the right amount of fuel (unless you mess up the jets), so you usually dont need to worry about being too lean. i havent had personal experience with dry kits, but it seems that its much less easier to screw up the install of a wet system, as working on a dry kit involves a bit more wit h the fuel system, and ive heard from people who have had bad experience with blowing their engines from lean conditions. as i said though, no actual personal experience.

second.. because of reason number one...

Don't post if you don't know what you are talking about. Dry systems add the same amount of addition fuel as wet systems so there is no reason to worry about being too lean with them either. There is actaully more involved with a wet kit than there is with a dry kit relating to the fuel system. In a wet you need to tap into the fuel line somewhere as well as using a 2nd solenoid to spray the fuel, with a dry kit you just need to attach a vacuum line to the FPR to allow it to raise fuel presure.

Do a little research before you attempt to give people instructions.

my bad, no need to be so harsh. it still seems to me atleast that wet is a slightly safer option.... yeah there is sometimes the problem with puddling though (i haven't personally had it, but I have heard stories.

Stephen Gray wrote:

i'm gonna go with rob's opinion on this one. a wet kit pre-mixes the fuel with the nitrous, so you shouldn't have to worry about running lean. a dry kit has a better chance of not getting enough fuel to the the combustion chambers and if that happens..... boom!! direct port mixes the fuel and nitrous for each chamber, therefore you don't have to worry about running lean in one chamber.



Actually a dry kit is closer in theory to a direct port because it rasies your fuel pressure when the nitrous is sprayed so the extra fuel you need sprayed directly into the head ports from the stock fuel injectors. On a wet system fuel is forced to flow threw the intake manifold which is NOT designed to flow fuel, therefor you run the rish of fuel puddling in the intake manifold and having a wicked backfire.

guess i never considered that aspect of a wet kit..... my bad

Bballjamal (Cav-AtL):

You don't know how much that means, man I haven't even posted pictures of it (officially) on the .org yet...lol. Thanks again, though!