So this is the third time my 96 vert has fried a fuel pump. The first time I used a cheap chinese replacement and was not surprised it failed 6 months later. I then replaced it with an AC delco unit which has lasted about 6 months. Im not sure I am going to replace it again, I am replacing the car, fixed or not. What would cause this though?
Are you always waiting til you real low on gas to fill it up?
www.gmofhouston.com
Blocked fuel filter or a block in the fuel system. Just maybe a relay getting stuck to over powering the pump. That's just off top of my mind.
Corrosion on the conectors possibly? Is there any contaminents in the bowl when you are talking the pump out?
Well I don't always run it on low but I do drive it to empty, the fill it up, and do so again. I also do this in my Z with no I'll effects. Fuel filter is new. Not sure about blockages but it never shows signs of dying or making the car spit or sputter like id think a blocked like would. just one day go to start the car and bam won't kick on, change it n all is well. I did not notice any corrosion or contaminants when I swapped pumps last time.
Im with Mr. Norwood on the connectors. Both pumps Ive gotten had a replacement harness to the change defective and corrosion prone older style of connector. Have you tried firing the pump up off the car. Ive done it by sticking the pump in a bucket of gas, submerging it and jumping the connector to the cars battery with some spare wire.
I did replace the harnesses the first time the pump died. I will double check when I pull it apart though.
You can do what Brian said nd put a gauge on it to see what pressure it is putting out. Also would do it on the car. Do it with the relay and jump the relay with a wire and get a reading. Then one final pressure test after the install of a new pump. This will give you an idea if you actually have a block. I personally never change the connectors.
GM_Mike wrote:Are you always waiting til you real low on gas to fill it up?
This is crap. I have always done this on many cars with no bad affects.
I'm with the rest of checking wiring connections, relays etc..
Bad ground? Seeing as it is the ground signal that triggers the fuel pump to come on.
FU Tuning
with pump modules fuel level isnt an issue like the old hangar style pump. The white plastic modules keep the plastic "can" full while the pump draws from whats in the "can". Thats why theres usually two pick up screens, one on the bottom of the module and one on the pump inside.
I have decided to hell with it...im having a shop fix the pump. That way if it burns up again its under warranty.
was the old pump sock/strainer changed over to the new pump module. If the old sock is used chunks of the old pump impeller can fall into the sock then get sucked into the new pump. This happened to my coworker (who actually is a very smart tech) when he cheaped out on his beater cav.
I had not changed the whole module but i did change the socks. This time the whole module was changed.
I used some lucas oil injector cleaner and a fram fuel filter and what do you know three tanks later and I had a fried pump. I have no idea if you are running any fuel additive but I would recommend against it. Also fram fuel filters are bad. Can I prove that the filter and additive killed my pump? No but I will never run either again. For reference my 2nd sunfire running a M-62 has 10,000 more miles and is still on the original pump.
-I drive my car to work-
do the pump screen and filter at the same time never do them separate . use fuel injection cleaner every pay day to keep it clean .
what about ground connection and full voltage to the pump
i would check them
make sure ground isnt weak to the pump
its just as important as the voltage to it
too high of resistance would be bad thing on either side
just an idea
good luck
-96 cavalier 2.2 auto 143k miles
