2.2L / 2200 / LN2

Has anyone swapped cams with the motor in the car? Looking for some pointers. I built the motor on an engine stand, so talk about easy to work on... but now that it's back to N/A, I wanna pull my turbo cam out of it, and put a stock head on it. Mostly because my built head has been through enough, is most likely warped, and I want the motor good n reliable again.

My friend that is a GM tech said that the motor needs to come out based on GM's recomendations, but I thought I've heard of people just dropping the pass side of the motor a few inches to get it out.

Anyone have any info on this? I need the motor to last me till next spring, when I plan on Eco swapping it, and I just don't think it will, with the head & cam thats currently in it. I don't want to run my stock head & stock valvetrain with that cam either. Even if I were to swap my valvesprings over which would make me feel safer, the turbo cam is not meant to be used N/A, and will run like @!#$.

OR if someone who is more familair with cams than I, can look over this and see if the stock valvetrain can run this cam or if it is too agressive, and how bad it will be to run it N/A?

Here are the specs that I have posted previously:

JBP Turbo Cam

Duration @ .050*:
INT - 195*
EXH - 192*

Valve Lift:
INT - 0.456"
EXH - 0.440"


Versus Stock Cam:

Lift:
Intake Exhaust
@lobe @lobe
.263 .263
Intake Exhaust
@valve @valve
.394 .394

Duration
Intake Exhaust
262° 262°

Valve overlap: 41°
Intake Exhaust
@ .050" @ .050"
185° 185°

Intake Centerline - Exhaust Centerline
116° - 110°

.050" Valve Timing:

Intake Opens - Intake Closes - Exhaust Opens - Exhaust Closes
19°ATC - 24°ABC - 22°BBC - 17°BTC

Lash:
Intake Exhaust
Hyd. Hyd.


Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Wednesday, March 17, 2010 10:52 AM

I dont thinks so and thats a turbo cam anyways so unless your running boost i wouldnt use it check out mantaparts i know their cam a couple of my friends run with stock valves and springs i personally run an importperformanceparts stage 1 cam but i changed the valves and springs when i did the swap


Erik Packard

Ricozero wrote:I dont thinks so and thats a turbo cam anyways so unless your running boost i wouldnt use it check out mantaparts i know their cam a couple of my friends run with stock valves and springs i personally run an importperformanceparts stage 1 cam but i changed the valves and springs when i did the swap

She was running boost. She wants to remove the cam and replace it with a stock one. Jess, I honesty feel you are going to have to pull the engine. If you need a stocker, let me know, I have a few and may be interested in a trade (May be able to use it in a future project)







P&P Tuning
420.5whp / 359.8wtq

Thanks Ryan, I just might take u up on the trade... and I figured I was going to have to pull the engine... was hoping someone had a successful story of pulling it out of the wheel well. Not sure if I will be able to pull the motor.. again. Ugh.

Jazer wrote:Thanks Ryan, I just might take u up on the trade... and I figured I was going to have to pull the engine... was hoping someone had a successful story of pulling it out of the wheel well. Not sure if I will be able to pull the motor.. again. Ugh.

I do know of one way, but its just as labor intensive if not more than pulling it.





P&P Tuning
420.5whp / 359.8wtq

Jazer wrote:
OR if someone who is more familair with cams than I, can look over this and see if the stock valvetrain can run this cam or if it is too agressive, and how bad it will be to run it N/A?

Any opinions on this?

generally turbo/sc cams lack the overlap that make NA cams idle/scavenge well. it may run, but with a turbo cam in it, it probably wont run well.



JBO Stickers! Get yours today!

Yeah It's been driven a little bit, and idled some since it was reverted back to N/A. It ran a lil rough, but once it learned it's fuel trims (after I reset the PCM & tune) it smoothed out a bit and stopped trying to stall out.

Im in a difficult situation to pull the motor right now, so trying to feel out my options.

All I can suggest is taking out the passenger fender well and see what kind of room you have.

After having the car in my hands, it looks like, yes, the motor would need to drop down quite a bit to get that cam out. Unless I wanted to drill a "cam-hole" with a holesaw, right through the inner fender well, lol.


Had the car running... Idles great on it's own until it starts to warm up. Once the car is up to temp it starts trying to stall out. I believe the idle is at stock settings (850/900???) Im hoping if i raise it a bit, 1000 or 1050, that it might keep it from stalling and settle the cam a little. Car revs up fine and if I hold the throttle open, just a little.. and it's fine.. but as soon as it tries to balance out at the idle, it just starts going up and down a bit until it stalls out (almost acts like it has a lightened flywheel in it.)

I do remember when I've played around with it a year ago up where it was in storage, that it was really bad at first, but once it learned its long-term fuel trims, it counteracted the stalling and apparently learned to run smooth. I had it idling for atleast 30-45 minutes at one point when I was doing some work on it and it ran smooth as can be. I had to reset my PCM last time I played around with it, so it hasnt had much time to run.

I also pulled out the colder step plugs that were in it when it was turbo and put brand new oem spark plugs back in, was hoping that might help it a little.