I have searched and done some basic diagnostics. Had the car up on my friends snap on computer. reads 5% tps at idle, can disconnect sensors and still idles at 1000 to 1500 rpms. RPM does not fluctuate or search, just stays high. I need to fix this before I boost so please any help or pics of what to look for would be awesome!
well your sensor is never going to read 0%, and now the dumb questions. Was your car warmed up? What were the IAC counts on the motor and can you change them with the scanner? and Did ya have alot of accessories on?? Vacuum leak possibly?
Ok car was warmed up, I do not remember the counts I would have to run it on the machine again on wed. Accessories were off to keep idle low and vacuum, I have no idea honestly.
there is no way your throttle body is bent. Correct on the TP sensor, It will never equal zero. And to clarify , your IAC controls the idle, not the throttle plate, under normal ecm operation. If there is a check engine light, then it no longer is running under normal conditions and you need to find out what the code is.
A vacuum leak will normally cause a lean O2 reading, If that helps.
01 cav w/01 3400 gam gt 4t45e
The boggest problem here is there are no check engine lights. Also when i connect an aftermarket radio my odometer reads error and the gauges turn off. works fine with stock radio bah!
Make sure that you didnt attach any wires to the purple A1 wire in the radio plug. And make sure that it isnt grounding on anything. That is the serial data wire and is connected to major components in the car, including the cluster and ecm.
01 cav w/01 3400 gam gt 4t45e
Mike Demo (Civic Eater) wrote:Ok car was warmed up, I do not remember the counts I would have to run it on the machine again on wed. Accessories were off to keep idle low and vacuum, I have no idea honestly.
I think that the IAC counts are going to take 2 things. One you need to see the counts on the computer, but you're also going to have to verify that it's actually moving. If it doesn't move, your idle will stay high. There is no way for the computer to know that the motor hasn't moved any steps.... it just assumes that it did.
Perfect example on my car with MS-II I had my minimum step size set too small. It would try to move the motor 1 step at a time, which made it jiggle and not move. Yet the computer assumes that it did. So as the car would warm up, the idle would go higher. Yet, if I shut the car off and restarted while it was still warm, the idle would be correct.
Ok tomorrow I am going to put it up on the machine *after brushing off a foot of damned snow*
I assume the IAC is a worm gear like my IROC has. I am looking for it to move in or out. Question, can I see this with the intake tubing off and looking down into it, or do I have to remove the gear to see it actuate.
I am looking to see if the counts and movement corelate to each other.
For the radio it was stock harness to pioneer harness. so it was plug and play. I will re check it when i pull my dash apart. I am looking for a purple wire touching anything? Or just that it is not connected to a ground? These 00+ radios really piss me off.
Might be easiest to just take it out. As soon as you turn on the key, the PCM should command it to reset. It'll do this by quickly moving it all the way in one direction, then moving it back to where the PCM decided it should be. You shouldn't even need to start the engine to get it to move.
Ok so my TPS reads 3% at idle and I am getting 50 counts on my IAC. at 32 counts it idles right at 950 but at 50 its at 1500rpm were getting a smoke machine in to check for leaks hopefully today actually. Also the TPS it seems only reads to 66%
Any thoughts based on the info above
