So today I made this work in my car.
closer
Now I'm reading coolant temp. I didn't have the laptop today so that I could compare the difference between the gauge reading and the reading that was being recieved by the MS-II. However I do know that MS was reading a temp. since as it was warming up I could hear it back down the IAC steps several times like it's supposed to.
The tach is another story. I tried to hook up the tach wire to the factory PCM as well as the MS-II. Same as with using a single 2 wire CTS, I do not get a reading on the MS. In this case, it sees no engine RPM, and does not open the fuel injectors. So the car won't run. So, now i'm over to try plan B to get the tach to work, which is to attempt to do so by using the tach output on the alternator.
Also, got my new starter in since the last one (two) of them died. Going to take the old one to an electric motor shop and see if they can rebuild it for me rather than pay the full price of a new or reman starter. (just purchased one off of ebay from a wrecked car to hold me off for a while).
Next time I shall try to get the tach working again. And I am also going to try to remind myself to get some loctite. An amazing discovery was that my rear bolt was missing from the lower engine mount bracket and the front one was almost that way too. Luckily though, no broken pan.
Hook up your altenator to your factory harness to make the batt light work. This way you can also see if it stops charging.
660 powered sunfire
I can tell the system voltage by looking at the laptop screen when I have it. That dummy light is actually about worthless IMO. I've got a pretty hacked up engine harness. What i'm trying to do is connect the things like Coolant temp and the tach. I figure I might as well figure them out now on the hacked up harness. The battery light will actually be fairly easy, and there's no guesswork involved in it. After I get things working, I have another wire harness and PCM here. So I'm gonna swap all that in, so my wiring doesn't look all messy under the hood. Which actually recently got worse cuz I pulled off a bunch of wireloom while searching for a wire.
The air bag light will probably go out if I hook the airbags back up. (they remain unhooked as I keep messing with wiring, just in case)
The Theft system light also comes on, but that's gonna take some electric tape on the back of the gauge face.
I just started ripping out LEDs to get the lights to go out lol
3400 SWAP DONE. 187WHP 212TQ (14.2 @100MPH NA) 240WHP 310TQ (N2O)
Get some more pics of your engine bay on here man. My car is actually down right now. Im changing the oil pump drive O ring cause its leaking everywhere and I was fitting up my turbo on the back side of the motor.
3400 SWAP DONE. 187WHP 212TQ (14.2 @100MPH NA) 240WHP 310TQ (N2O)
I've been neglecting doing the engine pics, because nothing really has changed. And I have a nasty mess of wiring still until I swap that other harness/PCM in. Actually i've decided that somehow I have my 2 front ABS sensors wired backwards. I can lock the front left tire, and it'll wait to pump untill the front right tire starts to lock up. That's at least on the 10% of the time that the ABS feels like it will work for that day. That and I still don't have the 3500 top end on it.
Turbo on the back side of the motor? Do you mean back side as in behind at the rear manifold? Or back side as the 'rear' of the engine, which would be the driver side in FWD form?
I mean like on the rear manifold. Im getting a machine shop to make an adapter plate for a t3 flange to bolt on it.
3400 SWAP DONE. 187WHP 212TQ (14.2 @100MPH NA) 240WHP 310TQ (N2O)
Dude, if it's gonna work alright on the rear manifold and fit and all. I might have to take you up on seeing if you can have another one made. My MAP sensor is good up to 21psi, so boost it shall be.
So make sure they (or you) have some sort of blueprints on how to make the thing. I'm just hoping that A) It's high enough for the oil return line, and B) it clears the firewall.
I have fit the turbo up and there is a little firewall clearance issues. Nothing that a hammer wont fix tho. And its only the part of the fire wall that juts out by the A/C lines that come out of the fire wall. Im kinda worried about the turbo being to heavy for that manifold and cracking or something cause that has bad news written all over it. Im replacing the rear main seal tonight in my 3400................yuck.........
3400 SWAP DONE. 187WHP 212TQ (14.2 @100MPH NA) 240WHP 310TQ (N2O)
I have seen 3400 rear manifolds crack on a few grand prix's , so maybe brace it up real good.
I have to change my "distrib" oil pump shaft seal soon , Its starting to puddle on my trans. Not fun either but better than a rear main.
01 cav w/01 3400 gam gt 4t45e
