i have an adapter to put the air compressor to the spark plug hole, i tried each one on the third one i tryed, i put air pressure to the cylender 2nd away from the fly wheel side, and i got air bubbles in the recovery tank,
so definatly air is getting out of the cylender some how, The first two cylenders i tried held the air quite well, I used the air once to hold the valves up on a chevy v8 to change valve guide seals.
any opinons that may prove this wrong?
im really starting to think the head gasket is bad at cylender 3 or 4, i guess i will verify that with the tear down, i will get my 89 buick lesabre t-type out of storage to drive while i fix the cav.
I have had this car less than a year and i am starting to wonder if i want to keep it much longer, i have fixed more on this cavalier in 6 months than i have had to on my buick in 12 years.
A local machie shop can check the head,it's not Magnaflux but another process,starts with a D.
Cost for me was quoted at $30
15.2@89mph 2.171 60ft. 9.830 1/8 R.I.P. "LULU"
hey thanks for the info, i havnt torn it apart yet , i know that sometimes bad head gasket is easy to see when you pullit apart, no hurry i have my buick and my 05 silverado to drive, so i will get it done right, or maybe just maybe i will do a 3400 or 3500 swap just for fun
I figured you'd kind of know..
BIGGSZ24 wrote:A local machie shop can check the head,it's not Magnaflux but another process,starts with a D.
Cost for me was quoted at $30
Is the other method the dye penetrant? I'm currently doing engine rebuilds at school and those are the two methods I know of. Usually the dye method is more expensive from what I remember.
Correct me if I'm wrong, since I've only been rebuild classes for a few months now, but a leak I think can come from burnt valves, or the valves not seating properly, a blown head gasket as you might suspect, or a crack in the head or the block. The only way to be positive would be to tear it all down and do a magnaflux.
ShaneS429 wrote:BIGGSZ24 wrote:A local machie shop can check the head,it's not Magnaflux but another process,starts with a D.
Cost for me was quoted at $30
Is the other method the dye penetrant? I'm currently doing engine rebuilds at school and those are the two methods I know of. Usually the dye method is more expensive from what I remember.
Correct me if I'm wrong, since I've only been rebuild classes for a few months now, but a leak I think can come from burnt valves, or the valves not seating properly, a blown head gasket as you might suspect, or a crack in the head or the block. The only way to be positive would be to tear it all down and do a magnaflux.
That is the correct thought but if he is compressing the air in the combustion chamber and the overflow jug is bubbling like he is saying, then that would be a bad coolant seal not a burnt valve, so it is either the head gasket or a crack in the head or block like you were saying
R.I.P. Micheal Geyman 2006
yeah i did forget to mention i made sure each cylender was moved to the top of the compression stroke before putting air to it
herculesinwyoming wrote:i have an adapter to put the air compressor to the spark plug hole, i tried each one on the third one i tryed, i put air pressure to the cylender 2nd away from the fly wheel side, and i got air bubbles in the recovery tank,
so definatly air is getting out of the cylender some how, The first two cylenders i tried held the air quite well, I used the air once to hold the valves up on a chevy v8 to change valve guide seals.
any opinons that may prove this wrong?
I tried the same thing you did, I did not get any bubbles, but some thing is causing my daughter's cav to get hot (see '96 Cavalier Overheating) on this forum. Perhaps you may have an idea what is wrong.
Thanks,
Ted
