My abs light is still on, after i changed all lines and brakes. I was just wondering what the bleeder screws on the top of the abs unit are for? am i suppose to do some special procedure to bleed that component too? The brakes work great after the lines and replacement, but the abs light is very annoying!
thanks,
brandon
Ah, and i just thought to mention. When i slam the brakes, the ABS dosnt seem to work at all. It brakes extreemly well, but no pulsations or weird pedal feel, no ABS. I know the master cylinder was completely drained, could this be something to do with my issue?
Go to Autozone or somewhere of the like, and have them check the codes. You should be able to retrieve an ABS code. The light being on means for one, that the system is not active. That's why you have no ABS.
If it needs bled, there's a special tool I do believe. Something the dealer would have. I think basically they just hook up the bleeder screws to the tool, and hook up a tec tool and tell it to bleed, and it takes care of itself. (i've heard that anyways). I've also heard that you can accomplish the same thing if you are cycling the ignition between on and off. I know you can hear the pump cycle once when you do that. Though, i've never personally done it myself.
Ok, i got the codes read, and they came up with nothing! The code scanner said "ABS SYSTEM OFF-OK TO DRIVE."... so how do i turn my abs back on!? The light is not supposed to be on, and i cant figure it out!
brandon wrote:Ah, and i just thought to mention. When i slam the brakes, the ABS dosnt seem to work at all. It brakes extreemly well, but no pulsations or weird pedal feel, no ABS. I know the master cylinder was completely drained, could this be something to do with my issue?
anytime your ABS light is on means the system is 100% non functional, it will not work if the light is on.
Well i just rebled the whole system agian, still nothing. This is really pissing me off.
On my '93 2.2
1.Start engine and allow to run for 10secs+, keep foot off brake and allow ABS to initialize.
2.ABS lamp should be OFF after approx 3 secs.
3.If lamp remains ON a Tech 1 tool must be used to find out why?
4. If lamp goes OFF and remains OFF--repeat 1 and 2.
then:- [I used a pressure bleeder at 5 psi on mine]
If the master cylinder was completely drained it must be bled initially to fill it, using the bleeder screws on the ABS unit [This is the Hydraulic Modulator on mine] (rearmost first).
The standard brake bleeding is then carried out on all four wheel cylinders(As if it were a Non-ABS brake booster system).
Then the bleeder screws on the ABS unit are used again to ensure the bleeding is complete, rearmost first.
Yours may be different but your problem could be the filling and bleeding of the master cylinder/hydraulic modulator
Alont
