There is a single pin connector on the engine wiring harness that has a ribbed orange rubber around it. It is close to the ignition module connector. It also has a green pin to lock it in to wherever it connects. Can somebody look at there 2.4 and tell me where this connects to. I have my new engine swapped in and the car isnt turning over and I just realized this isnt connected. Ha, I just realized I wrote "ribbed orange rubber" up there.

Forgot to put it has a purple wire inside of it, no stripe, just solid.

sure its not camshaft position sensor?
right next to the oil filter?

about the only sensor i can think of that wouldnt allow it to start..

u got a pic of it?

Unless that left over wire is for the oxy sensor (since its also purple) and the cam position sensor plug is plugged into the wrong sensor (I hope that made sense)...

I agree though, a pic would help

http://img209.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc04131mk6.jpg

That looks like the oxy sensor plug

Where does it plug into?

If you mean the one on the intake pipe it isn t that one. That one has a light blue rubber ring around it.

Oxygen Sensor is on the header.

OK I thought you were talking about the IAT sensor. This plug is only 1 purple wire covered with black electrical tape and has an orange rubber around it. The plug has only 1 connector pin. It has a orange plastic piece attatched to it to keep it in place when it is connected. I wrote geen in the post above. It is within 5-6 inches of the ignition module sensor. It is coming out from the same spot on the wire loom as the ig. module sensor.

According to my Chilton's manual, the only purple solid wires (w/ no stripe) are the following:

*Oxygen Sensor -- 1 pin plug
*Crank Position sensor (but there will be a yellow wire with it @ the plug and will be a 2 pin connector)
*VSS - Same as CPS as far as a 2 pin plug

Sorry for the large pic (had to be because of the small print), but here's the wiring schematic for an LD9 straight out of the manual... the VSS is on the lower center (where it says "TO A/C CLUTCH RELAY")... that part got cut off .







Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Sunday, September 10, 2006 10:44 PM

I checked both oxygen sensors and thay are connected. Although the one on the ex. manifold has two wires one light purple and one black. The plug I have left over is a dark purple. The crankshaft position sensor also is plugged in. If the crank sensor is the one above the fuel rail in the middle a little to the left. It has three wires. One red, pink with black stripe, and brown with white stripe. This is so frustrating so thanks for hanging in there and helping.

OK just realized I was looking at camshaft position sensor on the car. Where is the crankshaft position sensor in the engine bay? I don't think that is it because that is wired from the ignition module. This one is all by itself coming straight from the main loom. I see the brake switch also has one P wire on that diagram, what and where is that.

The brake switch is inside the car, attached to the brake pedal (it routes through the ECU...)

I don't have a 2.4 anymore, so I can't tell you 100% where the crank and cam position sensors are




Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Monday, September 11, 2006 7:13 AM

its too short to be cam position
i just did the swap a couple weeks ago and i dont ever remember plugging that thing in

you did swap to a newer engine didnt you? i highly doubt its egr but you should have that plug left over obviously
if nothing else i can check in a couple hours when i get off work

how about the knock sensor? you will have to look like hell to find it with the engine in it its on the right back side of the engine if looking from the front
im actually putting money on the knock sensor..

I have never seen a knock sensor with a safety clip in the plug.
Egr would have (3) wires
cam sensor should be to be 2 wires
crank sensor should be 3 wires

What year is the car (wiring) and what year is the motor?




01 cav w/01 3400 gam gt 4t45e

im going for knock.. only other wire that comes off that loom

althought my rubber piece is green but i have a 96 harness and 01 engine

It was the O2 sensor. The reason it was left over was the O2 sensor on the 01 engine I had put in had two wires coming rom it so I plugged that into trhe wrong connector leaving the O2 left out. I got a new O2 sensor with 1 wire and everything is in good shape. Only thing now is the car is throwing a P0108 code. Something to do with MAP sensor, "MAP voltage too high." It is chugging and then dies.

Its a start and almost there . you probably picked up a heated O2 sensor which is 2 wire....

The O2 sensor that was in the newer 01' engine had the O2 sensor in the ex. manifold with 2 wires. I figured it was fairly low miles on it so I'd leave it in. I dont even want to think why it had 2 instead of 1 wire. All I know is that is over with. The car is still chugging throwing the code and the voltage is way down. The reading from my radar detector says the voltage is 12 V or less depending on if the headlights are on. With them on it drops to low 11 even dipping into 10 volts. With the car off it says the voltage is 12.5 V. It goes up to 13.5 to 14 V when the car is on usually. I even put the car on a battery charger for a couple of hours and it still is staying low. Could this be a problem with the alternator? Only thing I could think of is what appears to be a ground coming off the side of the alternator is wired to the engine block right next to the starter. With all the other grounds from the wiring harness and the battery. Is that where it goes?

im guessing if your throwing a code for your map sensor, its your map sensor
if it is your map sensor i have one off my old engine i know works for sure ill sell it to you for cheap
either way its about
55-65.00 part new
let me know ill sell it cheap
ya good thing you got that o2 thing fixed i noticed that right when i switched my engine that one was two wire and the old one was 2 wire

anyway let me know man the map is what will control your idle so if its no good your engine will never run or idle good

Man I love this site. After looking at posts of all sorts and figuring why it could possibly be idling bad I remembered I bought a new vacuum line for the MAP sensor today. It was like 3" longer because for some reason it wasnt reaching to the TB. Then I realized I had the wrong vacuum line hooked up. So rough idling and codes gone now that the vacuum lines are switched. Now it's down to the low voltage. Im hoping that the switched lines somehow had something to do with that. I have it trickle charging all night so tomorrow morning well see. Could the battery have lost that much juice from sitting outside the car for a week? Or could it have been from the many tries of getting it to turn over and sitting out ? Thanks for all the help so far Jonathan, Robert and Joe.

Quote:

Or could it have been from the many tries of getting it to turn over

That will generally do it (doesn't matter what car it is...)

Try disconnecting the alternator after the battery is charged up and see if it will at least run for a couple minutes... the car should idle fine off the battery for a while (I ran my Cutlass w/ no alt for a week had to charge the battery nightly though)

It'll still through the low voltage code, but thats a good troubleshooting point.

Got the low voltage taken care of. The alternator wire was grounded and not going to starter. Thats what happens when youre in a rush, stupid mistakes. I drove the car to a trans. place across the street so he could adjust the shifter. It was saying it was in reverse when it was in park. He stuck some tool in there and 1 minute later all was good. Until I get back home and realize the transmission fluid all puddled under where the car was parked inside. It was a bad transaxle seal on the trans. $25 later from the dealer because no part store had the right one I end up denting that part also. Tomorrow morning I'm getting a new one and being more careful this time. I tried tapping it in and one side would go, then when I tap the other side the other side would pop out..... real tight fit in there. This time I went and bought a 1-5/8 socket to try to tap it in there so it hits all the way around the seal at once. Any pointers on how to get that sucker in there without damaging it.