I'm working on designs for solid Strut Mounts. If I produce any (the earliest would be ready in February) they would cost $40-50 each (so $80 to $100 for the front). I don't have any designs for the rear yet.
How many people would be interested?
i'd be interested for sure
Solid as in absolutely no rubber? Or solid to body and solid to strut with an insolator? I may be interested.
what would be the benfit to this C.T.S.?
L33tJbody (Brandon Gathye) wrote:what would be the benfit to this C.T.S.?
the same exact thing and reasons everyone goes to poly bushings...
the more solid something is, the less movement. in this case, better handling, more road feel... its a performance thing
i would be interested ...
Spring, Isolator, Seat, Solid Metal. No rubber to allow movement or wear out.
It would be very similar to McMoney's Camber Plates, just no adjustability.
(My design is not based on, and generally has nothing to do with McMoney's design)
would be interested aswell...
any ready yet. i will be the first to purchase. i just blew out another set of mounts. i need rear also, if you have thought of a design.
2004 Cavalier, 2.2L Ecotec
1965 El Camino, 396 BBC, 14:1, 800 BHP
BTW i know this is an old topic, however, it is feb.
Dont try to be a smartass and point that out.
2004 Cavalier, 2.2L Ecotec
1965 El Camino, 396 BBC, 14:1, 800 BHP
Sorry guys. Just wasn't enough intrest at the time and it never happened.
I can pull out the designs again... If you're really all still interested??
if you are not going to be able to produce them for a profit, how bout lend a hand to the jbody community and publish the designs.
i understand if you have a lot of time into them and dont want to. If not how bout a limited run. ill pay more if you have to make less units.
2004 Cavalier, 2.2L Ecotec
1965 El Camino, 396 BBC, 14:1, 800 BHP
well, whats the word?
2004 Cavalier, 2.2L Ecotec
1965 El Camino, 396 BBC, 14:1, 800 BHP
Here's where I'm at. The designs are finished and proofed. Here are a couple 3D images for the curious.
The first two are the main parts, the bearing plate, and bearing seat (made of T6 aluminum and polypropylene respectively). A stainless steel spherical bearing goes in the middle of course. Total cost: $86. I also have a spring seat designed, for those who are interested in replacing theirs (also made of polypropylene), for $25 (if I get enough people interested).
If you're all still interested I'll start the GP forum ASAP.
Did you say aluminum? That isnt strong enough as you would say. It should be steel. Even if it is T6 aluminum. Steel is way stronger, the whole thing should be made of steel it will crack and break. aluminum is weaker than steel.
^^^ If it is thick enough it doesn't really matter.
Aluminum Rock
Location: Montreal, Quebec
does the strut rod need to move on an axis slightly inside the mount? should should be true for the rears, what about the fronts?
14.82 @ 97 mph
Questions in order:
1. T6 Aluminum. Yes it's plenty strong enough. If it only had to support the spring, plastic would be enough. GM's design is fairly fool proof, and I'm just following in their footsteps. I think you very much underestimate Aluminum.
Secondly, to keep the mount somewhere near the original dimentions (mine actually drops the car 5mm) the plate supporting everything is more than 13mm thick along the axis of load. It's thick enough to support about 35 tons static weight, around 7 tons dynamic weight with no deformation (break weight is around 50 tons static, 12 dynamic). If you can get a <3,000# car to put >24,000# on one wheel, you deserve to break something.
Granted that this setup allows for much less movement, and thus forces will be higher than stock. But it's really quite trivial in this case. The mount is overkill.
2. True that thickness helps. But there are pressures wher no thickness will make a difference (talking about permanent deformation). Of course additional thickness allows for greater absorbtion after deformation has begun. But as I stated above, it's not a question.
3. Yes the rod needs to be able to move on axis, called deflection in this case.
Front:
Stock deflection is about 6*, this bearing allows for up to 19*. During normal driving (ie suspension is in one piece) deflection will not excede 11*.
Rear:
Stock deflection is basically 0*. I don't have the design for the rear bearing finished yet. But the bearing I have selected for it would allow for up to 10* deflection. Again, under nominal conditions, stock will not excede 5*.
The bearings allow rotation. Which the stock plates do not allow. This will make installation a bit harder. Impact wratches will probably just spin the strut rod.
I'm working on the rear designs now. They should be finished sometime this week. I'm doing all this in my spare time, so forgive me if I seem slow.
i was questioning these myself untill you said something about the spherical bearing. im interested. how much for the total assembly for two front mounts? about the 5mm drop, i have the koni sport suspension kit, which is something that definetly needs a chance to come down in the front a little bit. not just for aesthetics, being lower at any rate is good.
A set will run $172 + Shipping ($15 to $20, depending on location). I'll need 15 people to get this price. I'll start the GP, and post a link as soon as it's approved.
5mm is less than a 1/4 of an inch, and stock mounts sag a little bit over time (they are made of rubber), so it really doesn't have much effect in the long term.
I set for $172 is for four front and rear correct? Would you just sell the front? And if you dont mind my asking what bearing did you use or are thinking of using?
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Madjack wrote:Like I said before, building an engine like ours (2.2 or 2200) is a painstaking chore , since there is so few custom made parts. It's frustrating to me too, but that's what I like about doing this engine, it's the challenge.
its 172 for the fronts only. not a bad deal.
