Ok I'm in the process of removing/separating everything to remove my control arms. After searching, I found that I don't have to support the engine when removing the lower engine mount. I have the factor manual for the car, but it isn't real clear on the lower ball joint and the tie rod separation. Do most people borrow a ball joint separator? If so are they all the same? I know that having to replace a joint I break would be a costly PIA so I am trying to avoid headaches. Any other info on this job would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
"If you aren't shifting, then you certainly aren't driving!"
If you use a BFH (or even a medium sized one), you can hit the side of the steering arm and the bottom of the spindle to get the tie rod end and ball joint out. DO NOT hit the end of the ball joint or the end of the tie rod end. You will mushroom the threads. If it really won't come out doing it with the BFH, then you can use the ball joint seperater (pickle fork). Watch that you don't destroy the boot, or you will end up buying a new tie rod end or ball joint, since I'm pretty sure you can't get just the boot (I know you can't with a 2nd gen). If that doesn't work, (and the following is very last resort) thread the nut back on to protect the end of the threads, then hit it with the hammer. You will pretty much need to replace them then since you just mangled the insides.
Also, how are you supposed to tighten the bolts when the car is on the ground?? I have seen other posts saying to lower the car first, but I can't get under my car when it is on the ground!?!?! I can no longer get the can up the ramps since I lowered it either.
"If you aren't shifting, then you certainly aren't driving!"
just tighten it in the air. Make sure that you use the lube on the bushings.
see ya!
1) be careful of your digits.... stuff will get pinched....
2) you can bypass the hammers for prybars if you have space.... if a hammer, i;d suggest a dead blow one.... as opposed to rubber or metal.... thats just my experience when my rksport a arms broke.
3) ball joints are relatively cheap and detrimental for good handling.... new ones are around 50$ alot easier...trust me.
cobalt or titanium drill bits if you have never changed the ball joint out... they are riveted in.
ball joint seps are fatter than tie rod ones...
take your time dont get frustrated.
James Cahill wrote:If you use a BFH (or even a medium sized one), you can hit the side of the steering arm and the bottom of the spindle to get the tie rod end and ball joint out. DO NOT hit the end of the ball joint or the end of the tie rod end. You will mushroom the threads. If it really won't come out doing it with the BFH, then you can use the ball joint seperater (pickle fork). Watch that you don't destroy the boot, or you will end up buying a new tie rod end or ball joint, since I'm pretty sure you can't get just the boot (I know you can't with a 2nd gen). If that doesn't work, (and the following is very last resort) thread the nut back on to protect the end of the threads, then hit it with the hammer. You will pretty much need to replace them then since you just mangled the insides.
YES! a 2lb hammer and smack the steering knuckle right where the ball joint goes in. a few good wacks with some slight prying it should pop right off.
see ya!
You can get replacement tie rod end boots at advance auto parts in the Help! section.
They might possibly work on the ball joints also.
its like $3 for 2 of them.
pezed wrote:You can get replacement tie rod end boots at advance auto parts in the Help! section.
They might possibly work on the ball joints also.
its like $3 for 2 of them.
only problem is the stock ball joints have a ring around em to seal em.... the aftermarket ones arent a good seal.
I just purchased the seperater fork. hammer it in and pry it out. makes it sweet and simple. Remember to replace the cotter pin when done and get it alligned.
Steve W wrote:I just purchased the seperater fork. hammer it in and pry it out. makes it sweet and simple. Remember to replace the cotter pin when done and get it alligned.
I would add that you want to get the fork
ABOVE the boot on the ball joint so you dont tear/destroy the boot.
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I'm not sure I totally understood about the lower ball joint. I get the tie rod fine. You guys are telling me you just hit the steering knuckle with big hammers??? In the GM manual they show some tool that I have never seen before. I just want to make real sure i fully understand.
"If you aren't shifting, then you certainly aren't driving!"
You can use either a fork or a hammer. Think of where you hit the steering arm to get the tie rod end out and hit the knuckle in the same spot (the steel around the ball joint).
