i just put some SSBC disc brakes on the back of my 96 cavi..the problem is ive got my emergency brake cables all hooked up ( the ones i took of anyway, and now i go to yank the lever and nothing.. i can feel it tension up when i pull on it.. but its not enough to even think about clamping the rotor... is there any adjustment on it? if so.. where the heck is it at?...
I am also curious how to tighten the parking brake cable. I use mine to aprk (even though I have an auto) and the cable seems to be stretching over time so I need to tighten it. I still have rear drums.
So... Im listening.. .how to tighten the parking brake cable...
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With the rear drums, just drive in reverse and hit the brakes somewhat hard and it self adjusts.
For the SSBC brakes, try pressing your brake pedal firmly before pulling up the brake handle. I believe that our handle doesn't pull enough cable for what the calipers are designed for. I would suspect that an f-body or other car using those rear calipers has more pull. By pressing down the pedal, you're putting tension on the brakes so you need less pull to secure them that way.
Let me know if it works.
If it doesn't, I'll start asking about how your cable spring is set under the rear axle...
love to try it but i called SSBC and they told me to back of the retaning bolt on the caliper spring and to adjust it somehow and well my spring went flying so i gotta put that back on first and i got so frustrated i quit for tonight...
but whats your thoughts on the springs on the cable.. i installed the springs between the cable bracket and the rotater that the cable attaches to.. instead of between the couplers and the factory snap thru fitting... are they supposed to be under the axle??
Pressing the brake peddle before pulling the parking brake handel does not work.
Pressing the peddle jsut uses liquid to apply pressure, then you pull the handle, usign a cable. Once the liquid releases it's pressure, the pressure is jsut transfered to the cable. If anything I would assume this to give the parking brake a lesser hold if anything.
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no weasel is right the slack created on the caliper end will be taken up by the pedal then the lever being pulled wijll tightena nd hold everything together... but i cant try it till i get that darned little spring on
Ok... so will pressing the pedal first, then pulling the handle work for that time only, or will that adjust the handle?
If not... how do you perminently adjust the handle tension?
You're reading my line-break, you are a loser.
I'm not sure about that brake kit, but most rear brakes I've seen have like a minature drum brake inside the housing of the rotar which is used for the e-brake. Pressure from the calipers should in no way help or negate the effects of the e-brake cable being lose.
Correst me if i'm wrong though.
Cody White wrote:love to try it but i called SSBC and they told me to back of the retaning bolt on the caliper spring and to adjust it somehow and well my spring went flying so i gotta put that back on first and i got so frustrated i quit for tonight...
but whats your thoughts on the springs on the cable.. i installed the springs between the cable bracket and the rotater that the cable attaches to.. instead of between the couplers and the factory snap thru fitting... are they supposed to be under the axle??
I have absolutely no idea what you're talking about.
Can you take some pics? I'm not sure we're referring to the same springs. I was referring to the spring on the cable under the axle that gives you slack when you release the parking brake.
You can see it here:
<a href="http://www.wildweasel.ca/j-body/HowTo/images/BaerRear/ebrake_spring.jpg"><img src="http://www.wildweasel.ca/j-body/HowTo/images/BaerRear/ebrake_spring_t.jpg"></a>
That's only to release the parking brake though. If it's not holding in the first place, then this isn't your issue yet.
neoSandstorm (The sandy one) wrote:Ok... so will pressing the pedal first, then pulling the handle work for that time only, or will that adjust the handle?
If not... how do you perminently adjust the handle tension?
You have to do it every time. It doesn't adjust the handle. You can't "adjust" the handle to make it pull more cable. It pulls enough cable for the stock drums to lock up, just as it was designed to. With some calipers, you need to pull more to have them properly lock. Since you can't pull more cable, you have to "adjust" the caliper so you need less additional pressure to lock them. You can do this by putting initial pressure on with the hydraulics and then pulling the cable to hold them there. It's not like a drum brake system where there are springs returning the shoes to their rest position when you let off the pedal. With disc brakes, it's all relative. When you put the pressure on, then pull the cable, the cable will pull them relative to where the pressure was holding them.
philter127 wrote:I'm not sure about that brake kit, but most rear brakes I've seen have like a minature drum brake inside the housing of the rotar which is used for the e-brake. Pressure from the calipers should in no way help or negate the effects of the e-brake cable being lose.
Correst me if i'm wrong though.
Most cars with stock rear discs use that sort of integrated drum system for the parking brake. In those cases, you'd be right. No rear disc conversions for our cars use that though.
im reffering to the spring that the cable actually pulls on to clamp it.. call it a return spring..
and on this setup it clamps the pads down in two ways.. with hydrualics and mecahincally..
im gonna have to get a hold of SSBC on this one..
Wild Weasel wrote:neoSandstorm (The sandy one) wrote:Ok... so will pressing the pedal first, then pulling the handle work for that time only, or will that adjust the handle?
If not... how do you perminently adjust the handle tension?
You have to do it every time. It doesn't adjust the handle. You can't "adjust" the handle to make it pull more cable. It pulls enough cable for the stock drums to lock up, just as it was designed to. With some calipers, you need to pull more to have them properly lock. Since you can't pull more cable, you have to "adjust" the caliper so you need less additional pressure to lock them. You can do this by putting initial pressure on with the hydraulics and then pulling the cable to hold them there. It's not like a drum brake system where there are springs returning the shoes to their rest position when you let off the pedal. With disc brakes, it's all relative. When you put the pressure on, then pull the cable, the cable will pull them relative to where the pressure was holding them.
I will agree with you that disc brakes are reletive... however I still have rear drums
So, can you re-answer my question?
You're reading my line-break, you are a loser.
neoSandstorm (The sandy one) wrote:
I will agree with you that disc brakes are reletive... however I still have rear drums
So, can you re-answer my question?
Well this thread is about rear discs.
For you, if driving in reverse and hitting the brakes doesn't work, then you may need new shoes. If the parking brake is working but you feel you have to pull the handle up too high, then don't worry about it. If it holds your car on a hill, that's all that matters. When the shoes wear a little more and the adjuster moves a notch, the brake handle will likely tighten up a bit more.
If it doesn't hold the car on a hill at all, even when pulled all the way up, then you'll have to look into the problem.
