So here the setup 17x8 et45. I have 25mm rear spacers because my intentions were to get rid of that "sucked in" look the rear tires have. Well had the whole car lowered to probably 2" gap (between fender and tire). Went to back out of the driveway and the rear tire literally got sandwiched into the fender. It made a nice noise. So now my question is, can I crank up the rear preload to make it so the suspension doesn't droop as much in the rear? It was rubbing when trying to dive it too. I don't get how all these cares are hellaflush with their tires out past the fenders and don't have this problem. Any help would be great.

Well there are a few questions here... 25mm is a lot. I have to run 10mm spacers in the front of my car because of the wilwoods, as I have a pretty good dish on my wheels.

Have you rolled your fenders?

Fenders are not rolled. Maybe this is my only option. The 25mm spacers don't make the tires stick out past the fenders it's more like flush with the fenders. I was just trying to figure out if maybe I decreased the amount of bump travel if they maybe wouldn't rub anymore. Also the passenger rear tends to sit lower than the drivers side. I had to adjust it more to sit even. Is this because of the gas tank or is the shock blown?

Increasing preload means it will ride more firm. You can go that route if you aren't concerned with ride quality.

Personally I'd roll/pull the fenders first and then adjust accordingly.

I put probably a half inch of preload on each side in the rear and it rides incredibly stiff but regardless I think I'll have to roll and pull like your saying so I can actually let the suspension travel. I can live with no spacers in the rear but the fronts rub big time on dips in the road. I have no spacers in the front so maybe it's time to roll all 4 corners. Also I'm running a 225/45r17 should I switch to a 215?

I'm running a 245/40/17 on a 17x8 + 35 dropped on teins with just a roll and a pull.

Unless you are crazy low, you should be fine with a roll and pull. A bit of negative camber helps too. (1-2 degrees nothing crazy)

Follow the bc preload video on youtube.

Your going to have to roll your fenders. Not really the coilovers fault

I preloaded them just like the video to begin with but I didnt wanna do anymore damage than I've already done. So I preloaded them in the mean time. Looks like I have no choice but to have them rolled. If I can even find a place to do it up here.

http://www.eastwood.com/ew-fender-roller-w-instruction.html

On sale right now...super cheap!

That actually is really cheap! I just might buy that but it seems kinda like allot of money for one time use, also im assuming my paint is gonna chip no matter what?

Not if you heat the paint up 1st and keep it warm while you are rolling.

Tinkles, your car is exactly how I want mine stanced in your sig. That's the perfect amount of wheel gap. I know your offset is probably higher than what I have but do you have yours rolled? Just outta curiosity

Tinkles rear is rolled/pulled. We did his car at my garage. His front used to be but now he's running Toyo fenders up front.

With the roller, a lot of people rent them out after they use them to help defray the cost.

My wheels are 18x7.5 with 35mm offset. The rear has 1/2" hub spacers, but could use another 1/4". My front is widened too with unmodded aluminum N-body control arms. I need to roll my toyo fenders because they cut my tires on bad bumps.

I feel ya, it's like the worst sound ever when they rub. My fronts look like string cheese on the shoulders of the tires. I was looking around and found that you can actually rent a fender roller with a heat gun on ebay for $40. That's for a 5 day rental. Of course you have to put down a deposite but I'm able to do that. So that's what I will most likely do. My front passenger fender got really wavy on the lip from a bad rub on the freeway in a hard corner. I wonder if it would straighten that out.

Sorry to bring this back from the dead but I was looking at eastwood's pdf instructions. I was about to buy the roller when I read that it said never attempt to roll 2 ply rear fenders. That's what we have. So did you guys do it anyway?

Guys have done it....but there is a very good chance youll crack the paint.

Akizzem wrote:So here the setup 17x8 et45. I have 25mm rear spacers because my intentions were to get rid of that "sucked in" look the rear tires have. Well had the whole car lowered to probably 2" gap (between fender and tire). Went to back out of the driveway and the rear tire literally got sandwiched into the fender. It made a nice noise. So now my question is, can I crank up the rear preload to make it so the suspension doesn't droop as much in the rear? It was rubbing when trying to dive it too. I don't get how all these cares are hellaflush with their tires out past the fenders and don't have this problem. Any help would be great.

I don't have a droop issue on the rear of my LSS, but then again I'm going for a 1.5" drop overall. Plus I'm running P225/50R16's on stock LSS wheels. I do plan on switching to a 16x7 wheel in the future. Also I would recommend setting the preload to BC's specs and adjust the ride height via the lower mount. And also you will need to roll the fenders.


"United by Individuality"
"If life is a joke, why aren't we laughing?"
"Normality depends on one's perception of reality."
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3820803

My tears rolled with no cracking. Patience and a heat gun are key to getting it done.

My fronts cracked like crazy...

But I used a hammer in the costco parking lot because my tires were getting shredded.

Lol... Rears not tears.

I did all 4 corners with the Eastwood roller and a hair dryer with no issues.

you need to roll your fenders. all the hellaflush people rub like a mofo and all have major roll/pulls.

how would you add camber to the rear on a cavalier?

Adding shims is the only way to get rear camber on a solid axle rear end but they won\'t give you enough to be noticeable. And I\'m deciding whether I should buy a roller or rent one on eBay.