SO I have had the brackets for the Saturn swap for some time. Finally getting around to doing it.
Last Saturday went to the junkyard and got these.



I then started cleaning them up, to paint them.





Yesterday I picked up these



Then drilled the rotors



So everything is ready. I was planning on doing the swap today. When I started breaking loose the lug nuts 2 of them cracked while still torqued down. One of each rear wheel. These are the type that require a key. It is looking like my only option is to drop the rear axle and loosen the hub from the back side, and pull the hub and wheel and drum together, then drill out the back side of the lug.

Since I was planning to drop the axle in a month of two to do the Jeffie bushing in it and paint it I will now do that. I'm planning to use Eastwood rubber sealer paint. So I have to order that and do the work. Likely be a week or two before that work starts and I can then update with final pictures.




FU Tuning

Nice, so surprising your doing this seeing it seems you are all about keeping stuff 'stock' lol

Wish I never sold my Neon kit.

So what are the specifics of this saturn swap? I may do this one day after I get the car running










~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

I need to do THIS exact same thing. My parts are just sitting in a box at the moment.




PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO

WHITECAVY wrote:Nice, so surprising your doing this seeing it seems you are all about keeping stuff 'stock' lol

Wish I never sold my Neon kit.

So what are the specifics of this saturn swap? I may do this one day after I get the car running

I'm not all stock. This is GM parts.

For the Saturn swap you need brackets. Which are nice that they also serve as spacers on the rear wheels. This swap uses the factory ebrake cable. I think it because a little cheaper. Worse part of the rotor deal.

I see a newer version of this swap is out. Newer brackets that use SRT4 rotor's which are .03 thicker, but also taller.



FU Tuning

Oh ok cool










~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

The SRT4 rotors also don't need the hats drilled and to me that makes a wold of difference. I have the "newer" kit you mentioned and need to get it installed before I track the car this spring.


PSN ID: Phatchance249

Shawn McKenzie wrote:The SRT4 rotors also don't need the hats drilled and to me that makes a wold of difference. I have the "newer" kit you mentioned and need to get it installed before I track the car this spring.

A nice different I agree. Drilling was not hard by no means.



FU Tuning

no not hard but drilling the rotors just seems like a cheesy way of doing it IMO. but its cheap, and easy so i completely understand. i dont like the idea of using the neon rotors because you dont use the ebrake shoes on the inside so it seems counter productive and again, cheesy. all my opinion, im sure most will say im retarded. (as usual lol)

personally, i like that custom rotor idea that was posted up. do the saturn dimensions but have them done in 5X100. that's for me. i love that idea...

great job, john. love to see you doing stuff to the car.



RIP silver car. You will be missed.

The saturn calipers have a spring that compresses the piston for the e-brake. Personally I think that's a better system. One thing that hasn't been mentioned explicitly is that the stock ebrake brackets only work for 2002 and below 3rd gens. 03-05 guys need to swap the rear cables to the previous years for them to be plug and play with the saturn caliper.

I want to do this really bad but trying to keep things stockish at the same time; dilemma...



"In Oldskool we trust"

03-05's just suck. everything is different. ...damn cobalts. LMAO



RIP silver car. You will be missed.

Yes, damn them and their functional oil pump and rod bearings



"In Oldskool we trust"

So got back on this today. I did not drop the rear axle as I was able to un-do the wheel bearing bolts from the back. Then it was fight with the wheel/drum/wheel bearing to get them out around the brakes.

Once apart I saw my original factory 145k brake pads.


Mostly finished


This picture shows where I went different on my setup from the others I have seen. I disconnected all the brakes line and connected my new line to the hardline coming off the chassis, so my jbody SS lines I am removing and will be selling. So this gives less brake line in the rear.


I still have to drill out the back of the stud to get the rim off the drum and wheel bearing. Then do the drivers side.



FU Tuning

Nice. This is one of the best mods I've ever done. You'll notice a difference in braking instantly. The car stops flatter and more evenly. Plus its aesthetically better than drums.

So finally got the swap completed today. Some of it was a pitty because of other issues I had to work around.

I'm very happy with it looks wise and ebrake works very well, the extra 1/2 of spacing looks perfect.

So on the drivers side here we go.







As you might notice because of a friends recommendation the SS line was rerouted a little cleaner and just better.



FU Tuning

where can i get these brackets i want to do this swap asap

I wonder if those two e-brake cable brackets on the right come with new calipers....



I need to fix this asap!


PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO

-MD- Enforcer wrote:I wonder if those two e-brake cable brackets on the right come with new calipers....

Negative. At least they didn't on the ones a friend ordered from rock auto.



"In Oldskool we trust"

FFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFF







PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO

Depends. The ones I got from rock auto has the U bracket, but only one side has the ebrake. I'll have to dig through emails to see if I still have the part numbers.

Kardain wrote:Depends. The ones I got from rock auto has the U bracket, but only one side has the ebrake. I'll have to dig through emails to see if I still have the part numbers.

I'd love you long time. lol




PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO

1997 SATURN SL SEDAN 1.9L L4 SOHC

CENTRIC Part # 14262550 Reman; Posi-Quiet Loaded Caliper
Rear Left; Rear Disc Brakes

CENTRIC Part # 14262549 Reman; Posi-Quiet Loaded Caliper
Rear Right; Rear Disc Brakes

-MD- Enforcer wrote:

Kardain wrote:Depends. The ones I got from rock auto has the U bracket, but only one side has the ebrake. I'll have to dig through emails to see if I still have the part numbers.

I'd love you long time. lol

Guys, if anyone needs e-brake brackets for the Saturn calipers, I make them because I offered them with the Saturn/Neon swap. $25 shipped in the US including zinc plated bolts. I have plenty available.

Shawn , I PM'ed you.




PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO

Does the caliper bracket need to be fabbed up and is there enough room to plug the ABS harness in for this swap?


C:\Users\Phillip\Pictures

3500gtp wrote:Does the caliper bracket need to be fabbed up and is there enough room to plug the ABS harness in for this swap?

Caliper bracket bolts on. ABS still plugs in.



FU Tuning