I have 127,000 and some change miles on my j now. I think it's time to change em out. Should I just go to autozone or get this particular part from gm? Quality wise

I wouldn't replace them unless they are bad. I do not understand why people replace things before they are bad. My one set of wheel bearings had over 300,000 miles on them. I only replaced them because I did a brake conversion and went to a bigger wheel bearing. I could maybe see if it was something hard to get at like if you had your engine out and wanted to change your timing chain. You can test them for play. Wheel bearing are not cheap. I believe mine were close to $200 a piece.




On the inside my car looks like a fighter jet.

Rob Dotterer wrote:I wouldn't replace them unless they are bad. I do not understand why people replace things before they are bad.

Preventive Maintenance. If you suspect something is past it's prime and might fail soon it is better to replace it on your time instead of when it fails. You can financially plan for the repair, have alternate transportation arranged, and if it is a critical part then you dont run the risk of crashing when it fails. It is the smart thing to do.


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Rob Dotterer wrote:I do not understand why people replace things before they are bad.

Because when things are replaced regularly, not just when they break down, you have a smoother running/driving vehicle, and, as Tinkles said, you can plan it better.

funny this topic got brought up....im actually replacing all the wheel bearings on the car since its being tore down. now mind you the car only has 143k on it but i dont wanna take the chance of a failing part with a total rebuild





RIP JESSE GERARD.....Youll always be in my thoughts and prayers...

my fronts have both been replaced and I'm only @ 87k miles.

I've had good luck with National brand wheel bearing assemblies.

The front hubs are about $60 each at Advance auto. Just bought one a few days ago. If your car didn't originally have a seal between the cv shaft and the hub, make sure you install it. They come with the hub.
Dennis

I use timkin bearings...very good and great prices.

Timken Hubs break. I've had 2 failures already. I'll try National brand next.





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NCR-SCCA

they all suck. they all break. its a design flaw....



I choose the technology built for land speed records... not the technology built to save on emissions and gas mileage.

I'm getting a alignment this sat. So will see how that goes... as far as the feel of the car, as of right now. Replaced basically everything. New rksport full coilover system by b+g. Gm new front strut mounts,prothane bushing kit (everything). Moog ball joints tie rods, rksport subframe bar, rksport rear sway bar, prothane front sway bar just the endlink bushings, rear... the coilovers and might get some new mounts not sure if their bad. Oh yea lol gm front strut bar, got a newish freedom design nice bar for sale if anyone is interested. Had to replace the drivers cv axle the old one boot ripped. But anyways I've taken the car out a couple times and Im not the happiest. I have all these upgrades and Its pulling to the right a bit, I know that's cause it needs to be aligned. But it's almost like the bearings are getting worn not sure though? But handling is pretty sweet but not solid! I set my coilover height on the low side but I still have close to another inch before the coilovers are slammed. It rides hard u feel pretty much every imperfection in the road. I have enkei 17x7 front rear 17x71/2 kuhmo ecsta 712 tires kinda want to upgrade to some nice bridgestones.

i'd look at pillowball mounts for the coilovers. you'd be surprised how much play you get in the stock rubber mounts. also, a rear strut tower brace does wonders for the rigidity of the chassis.

Yea I've been wanting a rear strut bar for awhile were to get one though everyone just seems to carry the front bars. And do you know whew makes pillow ball mounts that will work with these prostreet coilovers?

And for those you changed there bearings ... What was the difference with the feel of the car.

i'd check with Mark @ OEM... if he doesn't have pillowball i believe he should have poly at least.

as for the wheel bearings, you won't notice much of a difference unless your stockers are shot.

Ok thanks what about a rear strut bar? Were to get one

my rear bar is a freedom design. OEM I believe makes a rear bar as well.

i thought at one point vibrant had a rear bar out too. used to see them on ebay as a set.

You should always replace them before they fail-



.

Lol wow those are some shot wheel bearings for sure. Never seen anything like that before. It would be nice if I could trade my other front strut bar a freedom design for a rear bar. And with mark from oem how do u guys communicate with him sux there isn't a phone #

This is what my last wheel bearing looked like on teardown:







Only 1 roller left with a tore up plastic bearing cage. That was a new Timken unit.





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NCR-SCCA

lol like i said, design flaw. they all suck.

just basically need to get in the habit of replacing them often. no way around it unless we can use a different car's one or something.



I choose the technology built for land speed records... not the technology built to save on emissions and gas mileage.

-Z Yaaaa- wrote:lol like i said, design flaw. they all suck.

just basically need to get in the habit of replacing them often. no way around it unless we can use a different car's one or something.

I"m with Brad 100% My 02 blazer ate National's left and right, My old ln2 cav ate Timken's , but I've had good luck with Moog's on my eco cav. I think it just boils down to luck.

Chelotus Racer wrote:Only 1 roller left with a tore up plastic bearing cage.

The automotive industry needs to stop replacing metal with plastic in places like this.

Ok guys I got my alignment done at the shop, got to go back there to while they had it on the lift with all the equipment hooked up, and they got everything in order except for my caster! So my car pulls to the left or right at times when I let go of the steering wheel and also it seems like my steering wheel is cocked to the right a hair when driving straight but it's not so bad all the time I guess depending on speeds. They said the only way to correct my caster to get into the right spec. Would be to get those camber plate mounts to move the strut around? I would think they could get into specs without having to do that mod though? I have prostreet full coil over setup and it's dropped I'd say at least 2.5 in all around the whole car. The rear was already in specs some how and they didn't have to mess with it

There is no built-in caster adjustment on our cars. The only adjustments are camber and toe.

The rear will not go in and out of spec based on lowering because it's not independent suspension as the front is.