Does anyone know of anyone that makes a manual rack for an 03 cavalier or do i have to do it myself.
catch can on the lines still wont completely act like a manual but itll allow it to move the fluid properly.
WE do. I will attach pictures of our unit. We gutted the whole unit and added liner Bearings for the shaft to slide on. There is extensive modding need to make a manual rack a true manual rack. Price is upthere though just to warn you.
WE gutted the whole rack, reworked the shaft and cut the rack housing in half. We then welded on a custom made housing that holdes 2 linear bearings.
Mark
http://www.overkillengineeringmotorsports.com/
How much is it? You've definately have me interested.
Marks was is the right way. Though I know of on other GM cars that they have had success by just looping the inlet line into the outlet hole.
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Leafy wrote:Marks was is the right way. Though I know of on other GM cars that they have had success by just looping the inlet line into the outlet hole.
You can do that, only problem is the pistons inside the unit need the fluid to act as a piston/seal. Sort of like running your car without oil, just a matter of time before something binds. Im not saying you cant just loop the hoses, we just thought that this was a more secure way to hold the shaft in a straight line to prevent binding. Also we filled our unit with grease so the linear bearings are always lubed.
Kyle, Ill shoot you a PM about price
Mark
http://www.overkillengineeringmotorsports.com/
Mark your way is the correct way. I have looped the lines at the rack, and left the fluid in it on a few buddies j-bodies. Steering is only more difficult at slow speeds like under 10 mph.
Fixed horrible spelling...
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Wednesday, January 18, 2012 6:15 AM
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I will get some more pics later on if you guys are interested. We also added 2 magnetic plugs to the rack to pull out any shavings that might have been left over that we missed when cleaning or what not.
Mark
http://www.overkillengineeringmotorsports.com/
The problem with that is, the seals act as the guide for the piston. Without the seals you have a sloppy. Also they are removing the vital carrier ring at the end, thats what keeps the unit from binding as well. By doing it that way you risk the possibilty of the unit failing
I am sure it would work, we would not suggest it though.
Mark
http://www.overkillengineeringmotorsports.com/
James Cahill wrote:Not trying to shoot anyone down here, but I know quite a few people (myself included) who have done it this way with no issues-
http://www.flyinmiata.com/tech/depower.php
.
this is what im planning on doing to mine soon as i get it up on stands.........
RIP JESSE GERARD.....Youll always be in my thoughts and prayers...
James Cahill wrote:Not trying to shoot anyone down here, but I know quite a few people (myself included) who have done it this way with no issues-
http://www.flyinmiata.com/tech/depower.php
.
If I do it this way, will it be a proper manual rack or will it be like when you lose your power steering and its REALLY hard to turn?
gtpsunfire wrote:James Cahill wrote:Not trying to shoot anyone down here, but I know quite a few people (myself included) who have done it this way with no issues-
http://www.flyinmiata.com/tech/depower.php
.
If I do it this way, will it be a proper manual rack or will it be like when you lose your power steering and its REALLY hard to turn?
Manual steering
is hard to turn (at low speeds anyway).
The way it works is, fluid is pumped into the tube on one side of the seal that is removed, and pushed out on the other side by the "disc" the seal is on (depending on which way you turn the wheel). The seal simply keeps the two sides of the disc separate. Removing the pump and looping the line still doesn't remove the restriction the seal itself creates, since now not only are you having to turn the tires, your arms are also acting as the pump to move the fluid from one side to the other. Removing the seal eliminates all restriction on the shaft, so all you're having to turn the wheel for is to move the tires.
I haven't had a 3rd gen rack apart, but in the Miata rack, the additional bearing added by OEM is already there. 2nd gen racks are center steer, so the end of the shaft where the seal was just hangs, and could actually be cut right off if one were that concerned about weight. For a street car, I couldn't tell you whether or not you would actually need any bearing added or not, but on a track only car, it's a bit much.
.
WE did a simple test on our unit by moving the car in the parking lot, WOW what a difference.
For those of you interested in a different ratio, its doable just expensive.
Mark
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Thursday, February 16, 2012 6:10 PM
http://www.overkillengineeringmotorsports.com/
So how much? Because I have the lines looped and hate it with a passion.
My manual rack is done, now I gotta wait till April when the car comes out of storage to install it.
Zs Z wrote:So how much? Because I have the lines looped and hate it with a passion.
Shoot me a Pm we can talk. Seems like there is going to be an argument here soon. I will also start a new thread with pics.
Mark
http://www.overkillengineeringmotorsports.com/
gtpsunfire wrote:My manual rack is done, now I gotta wait till April when the car comes out of storage to install it.
how hard was it to do ???
RIP JESSE GERARD.....Youll always be in my thoughts and prayers...
Are there different gear ratios between the packages? FE0, FE1, FE2, FE3
I know the sway bars are different sizes, but is the gearing any different in the rack?
Yes....To my knowledge the Z24 has a different ratio so it takes less turns to max out the steering
well, then that would mean the ratio inside is different, right? So, if you are going to switch to a manual setup, would the non-Z rack turn a lil easier as well as take more turns lock to lock?
I have a Z24 and a base model 4 door. Same part numbers for the racks, so no, they arent different.
As for an update, manual rack is in. Im getting alot of feedback right now, but we have only driven it in my buddies very bumby parking lot and they toe is WAY out. Once the alignment gets done, we can play with the preload a little more and get it perfect. Im also interested to see how it will act with street driving, but that probably wont be for a couple weeks.