this is the set that rk use to sell for 1200 bucks a couple years ago I installed these on my j with new gm front strut mounts and I also purchased the adj. camber bolts from rk as well and installed them ito the front struts. Now I need an alighnment and I was wondering if I need to get more than the adj. camber bolts to have a correct alighnmrnt? they are set low but not all the way down. and should i get new rear mounts or solid mounts do they make a difference? and i would like to get the better oem front mounts but dont know if they will work with this coilover setup.

first off, you dont even need the fancy camber bolts to correct the alignment. the alignment shop SHOULD be able to get it right without anything but stock parts. thing is though... with them SLAMMED you're control arms are not parallel to the ground, which isnt the best for handling.

and yup, solid rear mounts are a good investment not only for the better feel they provide but for the added longevity due to the stock's being such a @!#$ty design and not even staying together on a stock car very long.

-Z Yaaaa- wrote:first off, you dont even need the fancy camber bolts to correct the alignment. the alignment shop SHOULD be able to get it right without anything but stock parts. thing is though... with them SLAMMED you're control arms are not parallel to the ground, which isnt the best for handling.

and yup, solid rear mounts are a good investment not only for the better feel they provide but for the added longevity due to the stock's being such a @!#$ty design and not even staying together on a stock car very long.

I have the camber kit as well with the same suspension. Took it to 2-3 shops before I found the one that I really liked. They all wanted to slot the holes on the strut, until I told them I have the camber kit, and everything was fixed using the camber kit.

really? well.. must be the shops in Illinois then? ...cuz teins fully dropped can be aligned here no problem.

i wouldnt think the rk's vs teins would be any different in terms of camber adjustments... but i guess you never know.

yep, i even have a print out from the dealership that wanted to slot the struts. place i took it to, fixed everything with the camber kit in the front and shimmed the rear.

Here in MD where I live the shops I have been to don't check camber on a stock vehicle and if your lowered they won't touch the car unless you have camber bolts and charge twice as much.

-Z Yaaaa- wrote:first off, you dont even need the fancy camber bolts to correct the alignment. the alignment shop SHOULD be able to get it right without anything but stock parts. thing is though... with them SLAMMED you're control arms are not parallel to the ground, which isnt the best for handling.

This.

Camber bolts are the cheap way out of doing it right.
.

James Cahill wrote:

-Z Yaaaa- wrote:first off, you dont even need the fancy camber bolts to correct the alignment. the alignment shop SHOULD be able to get it right without anything but stock parts. thing is though... with them SLAMMED you're control arms are not parallel to the ground, which isnt the best for handling.

This.

Camber bolts are the cheap way out of doing it right.
.

vs rounding out the holes on the strut?

I think he means slamming past parallel?

BuiltNBoosted wrote:

James Cahill wrote:

-Z Yaaaa- wrote:first off, you dont even need the fancy camber bolts to correct the alignment. the alignment shop SHOULD be able to get it right without anything but stock parts. thing is though... with them SLAMMED you're control arms are not parallel to the ground, which isnt the best for handling.

This.

Camber bolts are the cheap way out of doing it right.
.

vs rounding out the holes on the strut?

Ya I agree with you doing it right is the bolts in my opinion



ʇı ɹǝʍo7 | ǝcoMonstǝrs

ok cool did u have to purchase the shims for the rear? or does the shop have those in stock? and the camber bolts do they go in the top or bottom hole on the front struts? I beleive mine are on the bottom. and will the overkill solid mounts work with this rksport full coilover setup? i want to order either those or im going to get Moog rear mounts those should be decent.

Dont use camber plates to adjust camber unless you absolutely have to. Because changing it there changes your SAI (king pin angle, just different term for mac strut), and Scrub radius (mainly effect road feel and steering effort, but @!#$ it up makes the car real @!#$ty to drive).


1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by: Kronos Performance

WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer

no plates here bud, just the adj camber bolts x2 they go in were there is the 2 bolts that bolt up to your wheel hub.

BuiltNBoosted wrote:

James Cahill wrote:

-Z Yaaaa- wrote:first off, you dont even need the fancy camber bolts to correct the alignment. the alignment shop SHOULD be able to get it right without anything but stock parts. thing is though... with them SLAMMED you're control arms are not parallel to the ground, which isnt the best for handling.

This.

Camber bolts are the cheap way out of doing it right.
.

vs rounding out the holes on the strut?

So how is this suspension now that you have the alignment with the front camber bolts? and what is your ride height for the front and the back?

Mine is straight as an arrow! Fronts are slammed, I bought them that way and the threads were siezed... so I left them that way. They ride perfect, im selling them... but only to upgrade to better. Im selling these to a friend since im still confident in them. Front is all the way down, no threads showing, rear i want to say is like 1.5" up just to make the car sit level. I love how it sits.

BuiltNBoosted wrote:Mine is straight as an arrow! Fronts are slammed, I bought them that way and the threads were siezed... so I left them that way. They ride perfect, im selling them... but only to upgrade to better. Im selling these to a friend since im still confident in them. Front is all the way down, no threads showing, rear i want to say is like 1.5" up just to make the car sit level. I love how it sits.

got mine new I use this gray in color anti- seize stuff you brush it on the threads this will prevent this so use it on your rear ones or tell your friend your selling them to, and idk if you can get the fronts to un-seize wd 40 and some elbo grease maybe lol

I would watch that anti-seize, its going to get covered with dirt and also ruin the threads.

More than likely those are aluminum on aluminum threads and they galled together because they used some cheap random recycled chinese aluminum to make them.


1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by: Kronos Performance

WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer

dude these are not cheap coilovers they are quality stuff from b+g suspension and the anti seize the guys from b+g told me to use to prevent them from doin what happened to built and boosted. who are you @!#$tin on this setup and saying go ahead mess your @!#$ up with corrective cam bolts my control arms are parallel. so whats up

Corrective cam bolts? You mean crash bolts? They're called crash bolts for 2 reasons, autobody shops use them when you crash to get you back into alignment, and they're know to fail and make you crash. The only proper way to adjust camber in a McPherson strut car is to have slots in the strut to knuckle connection, either on the knuckle or on the strut (preferred). If the struts arent slotted get out your drill, dremel, or die grinder and slot the bitches.

And I was talking about the RK sport coils with the cheap aluminum. But with your anti-seize I would still wash it off and re apply before changing the ride height, which is what the tein instructions say to do.


1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by: Kronos Performance

WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer

ok thanks I will do that when I adjust height on these, and these can make me crash!? holy @!#$ man wtf I was told to buy these if I need them for my alighnment, when I got to get it alighned I might not need them I doubt it though car is more than 2in. lowered. my97 eclipse daily driver, has eibach 1.8 in lowered springs on it when I bought it and my nice tires got worn down to the threads and it was because the kid never did a camber kit. went to get it alighned after i got new tires alignment shop said you need a camber kit we cant do the alighnment 300 bones later got the front and rear camber kit and installed the 4 new anchor bolts in front and the 4 in the rear then went and got it alighned all is well been driving it for 3 years now. so why would this be any different on my cavalier?

Leafy (Club Jeffie FEA man) wrote:Corrective cam bolts? You mean crash bolts? They're called crash bolts for 2 reasons, autobody shops use them when you crash to get you back into alignment, and they're know to fail and make you crash. The only proper way to adjust camber in a McPherson strut car is to have slots in the strut to knuckle connection, either on the knuckle or on the strut (preferred). If the struts arent slotted get out your drill, dremel, or die grinder and slot the bitches.

And I was talking about the RK sport coils with the cheap aluminum. But with your anti-seize I would still wash it off and re apply before changing the ride height, which is what the tein instructions say to do.

Ill disagree with this.... only because mine is running fine no issues...

I have had camber bolts on mine for almost 7 years.... NO problems what so ever. Fixed my alignment issues damn near perfect... I take that back... not damn near perfect, it is perfect. Rather than slotting my struts I liked this way better. a slot that works for me, may not work for the next guy. And if slotting them is the right way... why dont they come slotted from the factory at all? Ive been this way for 7 years and i plan to keep it this way.

I'm not saying it'll happen to you or anyone, they just have that reputation, the same way dsm's have the reputation for crank walk. I dont like them from an engineering point of view. You take a large bolt and replace it with a small bolt inside an eccentric spacer, it doesnt sound like a good idea, and there's all the stress concentrations I wont get into. When that style adjustment is used properly, like it is on miata's its freaking awesome. Stock struts arent slotted because you're never expected to need to change camber stock, and most alignment places just set the toe somewhat ok and send you on your way anyways. I'm used to aftermarket struts coming already slotted, which is why I didnt even check my teins only to find out that they werent when I asked the alignment guy for -1.5* of camber.


1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by: Kronos Performance

WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer

slotting them then their is no turning back, using adj. camber bolts take out the bolt and put back in the o.e.m. bolt and your back to stock and your struts are not all slotted out! people have been buying kits like these for all types of cars for a long time and obvisouly these companies make these for a reason.

jdm cav9 wrote:slotting them then their is no turning back, using adj. camber bolts take out the bolt and put back in the o.e.m. bolt and your back to stock and your struts are not all slotted out! people have been buying kits like these for all types of cars for a long time and obvisouly these companies make these for a reason.

Yeah but its not like you are going to slot stock struts, unless the alignment shop needs to make an adjustment because you hit a curb and bent something. People have been buying these kits because they dont know any better and companies made them well before anyone bought them for this purpose because they are designed to be used on cars that have been crashed.

Also, its not as if slotted struts isnt the typical OEM adjustment style for McPherson strut type suspensions, its just that our car is so cheap they come this way. Look at practically any other strut for any other car and it will be slotted.


1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by: Kronos Performance

WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer

Leafy (Club Jeffie FEA man) wrote: A bunch of misguided and just plain wrong information, including this below. VVV

Yeah but its not like you are going to slot stock struts, unless the alignment shop needs to make an adjustment because you hit a curb and bent something. People have been buying these kits because they dont know any better and companies made them well before anyone bought them for this purpose because they are designed to be used on cars that have been crashed.

Also, its not as if slotted struts isnt the typical OEM adjustment style for McPherson strut type suspensions, its just that our car is so cheap they come this way. Look at practically any other strut for any other car and it will be slotted.

Dude.... no offense but you are wrong on so many levels. Name me ONE instance where a PROPERLY INSTALLED camber bolt kit has failed and you have personally seen it. It's not like the bolts hold the spindle in place just from their sheer presence. The point of the bolts is to adjust camber (obviously ). The CLAMPING force of the bolts is what holds the spindle in the proper location. I am an ASE certified suspension tech, and have been installing these on many different cars for YEARS without a single problem.

Not that I am arguing against slotting the struts; Hell, most IRS GM cars have adjusted rear camber this way for YEARS. I'm just saying that a properly installed set of camber bolts is just fine for most vehicles. I've had them on my car since I lowered it, 4 years ago. If it were such an issue of danger or improper application, then why would Lancer Evo's and Mercedes use them on their cars from the factory???




Currently #4 in Ecotec Forced Induction horsepower ratings. 505.8 WHP 414WTQ!!!
Currently 3rd quickest Ecotec on the .org - 10.949 @ 131.50 MPH!!!