Just curious is anyone running the strut kit with EDFC or just running without it? I bought the strut kit as a just in case kind of thing then after looking at it I am confused as hell to how it will even prevent tangling. Seems like it is a stop so when adjusting the collars it wont allow the body to turn completely around tangling the wires etc. Just looking for a little bit of verification before i tear these down for the strut kit.
Its getting nice out, gotta get these bishes on finally.

Theres a special setup for struts in the front to prevent tangling. Personally I see no point to having the damping adjustable in the car. I mean if my damping is off I'll fix it between auto-x runs by hand.


1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by: Kronos Performance

WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer

i have the setup but in the closet it sits. havent used it yet...

get ahold of gary voyles, he's using the setup.

z yaaaa wrote:i have the setup but in the closet it sits. havent used it yet...

same


this is the start of my signature: have you read the RULES yet?
my carDomain updated 6/11/10 Forged and Supercharged

Leafy wrote:Theres a special setup for struts in the front to prevent tangling. Personally I see no point to having the damping adjustable in the car. I mean if my damping is off I'll fix it between auto-x runs by hand.

there is also the benefit of half settings as the stepper motors allow for twice the amount of standard settings.

Big woop. Do you have a cage, ordered custom springs, and run r-comps? If you lack any one of those things the extra settings wont mean @!#$ for you.


1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by: Kronos Performance

WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer

im lazy thats why


seriously no one? blah. I'll have to hope old man gary sees this thread

It's been about 5yrs. since I put mine on, but if I remember correctly, you don't need the strut kit if your not going to be constantly adjusting the ride height of the struts. I know I'm not running the sturt kit on mine and it works just fine.


BTW; this is a great thing for my Vert. because the rear shock adjusters would be a pain in the a$$ to get to...




Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Tuesday, April 19, 2011 6:06 AM


"The FACTS are always subject to CHANGE once the TRUTH is applied"
"In the entire history of man the only stupid questions are the ones that don't get asked"

Leafy wrote:Big woop. Do you have a cage, ordered custom springs, and run r-comps? If you lack any one of those things the extra settings wont mean @!#$ for you.

guess i missed the memo where the ability to more finely tune your damping was a bad thing. you wouldn't need any of those things mentioned if you are trying to dial in your setup.

lets be honest though... would you still be on teins if you were caged with r-comps/slicks? I think i'd want something with seperate height/preload ajdustability if I was going all out and custom spring rates aren't worth it unless the strut valving is up to par.

im sorry but when i finally do get to autocross and want to adjust my ish id much rather it be easy to do inside the car versus having to dick with it by hand. call me lazy if you need to but there is nothing wrong with convienence in my book.

the teins are nice because they click into each position. say like koni's for example.. they do not, its just a guess basically to get it perfect like the teins are. i think an EDFC would benefit these more because of that reason.

strat81 wrote:

Leafy wrote:Big woop. Do you have a cage, ordered custom springs, and run r-comps? If you lack any one of those things the extra settings wont mean @!#$ for you.

guess i missed the memo where the ability to more finely tune your damping was a bad thing. you wouldn't need any of those things mentioned if you are trying to dial in your setup.

lets be honest though... would you still be on teins if you were caged with r-comps/slicks? I think i'd want something with seperate height/preload ajdustability if I was going all out and custom spring rates aren't worth it unless the strut valving is up to par.

You wont notice the differences in that small of a damping adjustment on a non-caged chassis because the chassis will flex more than the difference in damping adjustment.

And honestly its not that hard to adjust them. pop the hood and grab those (you should pop the hood anyways to help the engine cool down), and the rears you just put the trunk and reach in. Now if this was like some other cars where getting to the top of the rear shocks involved taking half the car apart then it might make sense.


1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by: Kronos Performance

WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer

hey thats what you like and this is what i like. just different perferences thats all

niether one is the wrong way.

Yeah but if you have 400 bucks to blow on just making something easy, I think you may be modding the wrong car.


1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by: Kronos Performance

WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer

Leafy wrote:]

And honestly its not that hard to adjust them. pop the hood and grab those (you should pop the hood anyways to help the engine cool down), and the rears you just put the trunk and reach in. Now if this was like some other cars where getting to the top of the rear shocks involved taking half the car apart then it might make sense.

john317(AKA Gary the Old guy) wrote:
BTW; this is a great thing for my Vert. because the rear shock adjusters would be a pain in the a$$ to get to...

So I guess a remote boost controller is useless too, i should pop my hood, guess the psi im at, all while my engine is cooling, and then run it again... or fine tune it just like the edfc is fine tuning suspension....






Edited 4 time(s). Last edited Tuesday, April 19, 2011 12:47 PM

is the edfc really up to $400 now? i thought they used to run in the 120-150 range...

^^ gotta be careful, the sell the motors and the controller separate. I don't remember what i paid for the edfc alone. i know it was like 1700 shipped tho total.
here is all the part numbers spencer, grant one is the strut kit which you don't need.
DSG90-2USS4
EDK06-K4474
EDK05-12140
EDK04-K4469



and Thanks Gary, that was what I was thinking. I probably will avoid tearing them apart for the strut kit then.

When i had my dspecs I hated adjusting the rear (in a coupe even) So i like the idea of EDFC. Plus will be nice for autox to pull up and just hit a preset for autox setting, daily soft and a daily firm or something. For the amount spending on coilovers, i felt might as well get the EDFC.. to say its a waste blah blah is a great personal opinion. worth it to me so i spent my money on it.




Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Tuesday, April 19, 2011 3:00 PM

might want to check forums like nasioc. if i remember correctly, the motor kit is the same for the impreza's as well. i've seen a few on there go for pretty cheap.