i have 2002 sunfire se. it was time to get an oil change and was busy all weekend so i dropped it by a walmart. (i know...i know
for being lazy and stupid) a couple months later i noticed my gas mileage was really bad and my car seemed a lot slower than usual and was making a wheel bearing type noise. I check the bearings while on a lift and they were fine. I was going crazy until i tried to spin my wheel and i could practically hang on it before it would move. I checked the lines to the caliper and both sides were collapsed. I changed those, also over filled the master cylinder to check for petroleum based fluids and there it was, i bled the brakes as much as possible and overfilled over and over and changed the master cylinder. its gotten better but not cured, i am pretty sure it has gotten to the ABS. I have two questions before i attempt to do anything. how expensive is it to get a master cylinder to delete the ABS and how extensive of a job is it and where do i find one, second if i disable my traction control via the switch on the dash does that disable the abs and if it does would that even help since the fluid still goes through. Please help i definently dont want to buy another abs system. i dont have that kind of money laying around thanks
also i have changed my rotors and pads. the rotors were out of round and pads were worn and all was changed recently before that.
you'll need someone with HP Tuners to delete your ABS code. you can delete the ABS module, just have to have the right hardware for it.
turning off your traction control does not disable the ABS completely. only if it detects wheel spin while not braking.
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If it's 100% accurate and that a petroleum based fluid got into your brake system, you'll have to replace EVERYTHING that's rubber. Calipers, flex hoses, wheel cylinders, master cylinder (rubber seals inside) EBCM, and whatever else I'm missing.
Sorry man.
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BlownBlackZ wrote:If it's 100% accurate and that a petroleum based fluid got into your brake system, you'll have to replace EVERYTHING that's rubber. Calipers, flex hoses, wheel cylinders, master cylinder (rubber seals inside) EBCM, and whatever else I'm missing.
Sorry man.
yeah i know, im doing it a part at a time, the ABS is just the most expensive part to replace. i found one for 1200 but i would rather either delete it or get a new car then dump all that into it.
Im pretty sure you can't just do it one part at a time as the contamination will just spread. You have to replace all rubber at the same time and completely flush the entire system(hard liens) before doing anything else as far as part changing.
"Never argue with an idiot. They'll drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience!" -Anonymous
go to the junk yard and pull the abs system out.... i got one for 25 bucks .
thats a good idea nate i didnt even think of that. would a chevy cav one be the same
or ebay. i got a master cylinder and abs unit for like $30 shipped
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FReQ GTO eSquIRE wrote:you'll need someone with HP Tuners to delete your ABS code. you can delete the ABS module, just have to have the right hardware for it.
turning off your traction control does not disable the ABS completely. only if it detects wheel spin while not braking.
If you or someone you know has access to a Tech II that can also disable the ABS that way.
So you are saying that a WalMart employee put an oil besides Brake fluid in your master cylinder when they serviced your car?
I'd go down first without telling them what is wrong and ask exactly what is included in their oil change service. new filter, new oil, check the belts, check brake linings, check washer fluid, etc. IF they say check and top off brake fluid, ask for a brochure about their service or ask if they can write it out for you so you can let your wife know what value you are getting for your money. Now after you have that have them check who did you car and did they do all of these services for you? (be friendly, act really really stupid, "I know NOTHING about cars and a buddy was telling me......). Once you have documentation in hand, call your lawyer and let him take it from there. WalMart OWES you big time. They ruined your entire brake system, they subjected you to a possible accident if the system failed before you dicovered it, etc, etc etc.
I wouldn't let this go. WalMart can afford to rebuild you brake system with all NEW parts, MAKE THEM DO IT!!!!
They hire untrained staff that can barely walk and chew gum at the same time as a general rule (yes, yes there are exceptions). They are not certified mechanics and they are putting people's lives at risk. It is your job now to protect the next person behind you from having the same happen to them.
My 2 cents anyway. And I'm not at all inclined to sue but this is serious damage done to your car.
^He's right....but they will settle out and fix your car, possible even pay highest bid too...could end up making a few $.
"Never argue with an idiot. They'll drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience!" -Anonymous
All they have to do is say that you could have put the fluid in there yourself because you wanted to make them replace something that wasn't working.
You have to PROVE their negligence, which you can't do unless you video taped it.
fortune cookie say: better a delay than a disaster
^Good points.....depends on how much noise you want to make I guess.
"Never argue with an idiot. They'll drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience!" -Anonymous
BlownBlackZ wrote:If it's 100% accurate and that a petroleum based fluid got into your brake system, you'll have to replace EVERYTHING that's rubber. Calipers, flex hoses, wheel cylinders, master cylinder (rubber seals inside) EBCM, and whatever else I'm missing.
Sorry man.
Yup, this is true. We had to do it to a Neon when I used to work at Dodge. Doing it a part at a time is NOT an option.
ok thanks guys for all the bad news, lol. i will just have to get the money up and redo it all.