I've had this issue with the car since I've had it, every year or so it seems to develop. It's kind of hard to explain, but I'll try.
You know how you can pull the e-brake while the car is moving *slightly* and the rear hunkers down (at least, on stock springs?). It's like that, but under normal braking. Because I'm at speed, the car doesn't really hunker down, but I do hear the brakes engaging inconsistently. Also, there is a very loud squeak accompanying said effect, usually at lower speeds, but at higher speeds it has happened before. Seems like this particular bit happens after the car has been driven short distances and let sit (i.e. dust settles?) or for the first time that day. I usually give it a good solid stop at the bottom of a hill and it goes away.
I've had the drums fixed at least 4 times in the past 4 years. I have 100,000 miles on my car. This cannot be normal! Any thoughts?
Try cleaning and adjusting them properly. Then sand down any hard edges on the shoes.
Sounds like what happens when a wheels cylinder starts leaking.
FU Tuning
I know this same problem my corsica has the same darn problem. does it make an aweful sqaull like nails down a chalkboard? my shoes are in good shape and wheel cylinder is not visibly leaking but my abs light is on and the scan tool cant communicate with the module so i figure that the abs module is bad ... is your abs light on... does the bulb work check it on start up.
I have a simular problem with my 99. The driverside rear drum hangs and no one at a shop or auto parts store has any real clue. I have no leaks and if I pull the e-brake only the driverside engages. Abs works but I pulled the relay because during the winter the left rear tire would lock and abs would kick in and I couldn't stop. Sometimes after braking the driverside drum wont release and when I accelerate the drum would pop then finally release. I'm gunna look into the e-brake cable. I'm thinking the cable might of let go on the passenger side and causing it to not expand but I'm not sure. A mechanic explained to me the front brakes work off the pressure from the back brakes and if the back brakes aren't building pressure correctly then it causes you to lose front braking power. I personally think he was blowing smoke out his ass since I thought the stock master cylinder regulated pressure and it was about 70% front and 30% rear. I've replaced both drums and shoes several times since I've had the car and last time I even did the spring kit. NO LUCK! Any help would be great.
People can't learn common sense. You're born with it. Either you have it or you just don't!
its a cavalier thing. mine usually only does it when the car has been sitting over night. then it goes away.
Working on obtainting an M-Class license... ?? Hint: 2 wheels.
I'm 99% sure I have a fix for this! Prepare to be amazed!!!! I'm going to make a post after I drive it for a couple months to be 100% sure. Hopefully it will be made a sticky.
I suffered through problems with the rear brakes locking up, engaging the ABS, squealing and "hunkering down" for nearly 2 years. It all started after doing a complete rear brake job, including new Bendix drums, Bendix shoes and a hardware kit. Below is the troubleshooting I did:
- had the drums turned - they were true
- installed another hardware kit
- different set of shoes - Oreilly's house brand
- new wheel cylinders and a complete flush
- too many adjustments to remember
After all of this the problem was just as bad as it had ever been. I found a lot of information talking about different brake materials and finally decided to give it one last shot and so I bought some Delco shoes from RockAuto for ~$30. THAT WAS THE MAGIC BULLETT! They are now perfectly quiet, don't lockup at all and the car will stop on a dime even on rough pavement, gravel or rain!!!!!!! It's really amazing that the friction material could make such a huge difference.
No thanks necessary! Just enjoy driving a car that will actually stop without engaging the ABS. It has made this car so much nicer to drive.
2.2 97 Cavalier......the "Crapalier"
That solution was already discussed.
John Benham wrote:That solution was already discussed.
"That's my next move" doesn't reflect a definite fix.
2.2 97 Cavalier......the "Crapalier"
i forgot to say. usually when they pull it means the drums are not true and need to be machined or replaced. if it happens all the time
Working on obtainting an M-Class license... ?? Hint: 2 wheels.
