OKay so I bought rims and had to use tuner lugs with them.
The cheap tuner lugs (along with my own idiocy) managed to stripp all five of the pegs on the front right.(don't know what the pegs the lug nuts go on are called)
How would I go about changing the lug stems? (for lack of a better word) and how much do they usually run?
I only need 5 of them and 5 new lug nuts.
It's either that or have a tow truck come and wheel it to a garage, but if I can fix it myself I would perfer that.
I know this is a knob question But I would greatly appreciate any help and thanks in advance fella's always appreciate the help from this place
" Aint nothin' but a Peanut!"
Correct me if im wrong here people..
The LUG STUDS are pretty easy to change if you wanna get involved.
All you have to do is:
1: remove the axle nut
2: remove the whole hub assembly that the LUG STUD are part of by removing 3 hex head bolts.
3: you can use a BFH (big f'ing hammer) to remove old LUG STUDS
4: install new ones. The installation should be as simple as inserting lug into hole, and using an OPEN ENDED LUG NUT!!! like the ones that are stock, to "tighten" or pull the LUG STUDS into the whole.....
BTW and IMPACT gun makes it so so so so easy....
Okay, I have the vauge Idea, also appreciate straightening out my vocab lol sorry I am not to knowledgdle with this kind of stuff.
Much appreacited though! Looks like that electric impact wrench I bought from harbor freight will come in handy
" Aint nothin' but a Peanut!"
just make sure the lug nut you use is OPEN at both ends, and if you can find a few washers, put them on before you "TIGHTEN" the lug studs INTO the hub that way you dont damage the surface of the hub....
That or you can just pick up a new wheel bearing/hub assembly. They come with the wheel studs already pressed in.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Thursday, September 11, 2008 7:26 PM
changing them is simple and they only cost like 2 bucks per stud. all i did when i changed mine was remove the tire, caliper and rotor. then i just hammered out the old stud and pushed in the new one. it was a very tight squeeze by not removing all the other parts but it worked lol.
Been there, done that. You crossthreaded them all, didn't you?
The first time I picked up a tire iron was when I got my new wheels and thought "how hard could this be?". I didn't get the wheel centered on the studs correctly, and thought that the extra resistance was just a bit of friction on the lug walls that would sort itself when I got them all tightened down. Not so -- I managed to destroy about 8 studs and lugs before this came to light, and further learned the hard way when I paid about $150 to a mechanic to sort the mess out. While he laughed behind my back, no doubt.
Worse yet, I later learned from the JBO that since I had only screwed up the back wheels, replacing the studs would have been an extremely easy DIY job. (The front ones are a tad trickier, but still not a huge deal). Live and learn. Rule number one: start lug nuts by hand.
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Yeah, I dont think it was the "cheap" lugs you were using. it was you. you can crossthread any lugs....expensive or not.
pm me. I can tell you how to do it, but dont have the mental capacity right now for such a chore. There are some crucial steps missing above.....
Quote:
Been there, done that. You crossthreaded them all, didn't you?
Yes My own stupidity is to blame lol
Thanks John PM inbound.
" Aint nothin' but a Peanut!"
You don't have to take the hub off. You should be able to squeeze the lugs in there with the hub on the car. Obviously you will have to take the brakes off though.
Now for specifics.
When putting the the new studs into the hub, make sure that the "splines" of the stud line up with the "splines" of the hole.
Use a stack of washers so that you don't have to thread the nut as far.
Please...use some good lube on the threads so that you don't gall them up. Anti seize is best.
Overall, it is a simple job. Good luck.
Go Go OG Traction!!
OG Nick wrote:When putting the the new studs into the hub, make sure that the "splines" of the stud line up with the "splines" of the hole.
Those "splines" are merely to ensure the studs hold strong and fast inside the hub, they don't have to "line up" with anything.
OG Nick wrote:Please...use some good lube on the threads so that you don't gall them up. Anti seize is best.
NEVER EVER EVER EVER EVERRRRRRR use anti-sieze (or anything else for that matter) for lugnuts. I don't care how many say they've always done it with no problem, it's a bad bad bad bad idea. As long as the threads of the stud and the nut are clean, there's NO reason whatsoever to use anti sieze or anything on them. You'll get a false torque reading, and you run the risk of having the nuts back off. I take wheels off for a living, have been doing so for 10 years, and have never had a problem of my own doing.
14.330 @ 96.37mph
BlownBlackZ wrote:OG Nick wrote:When putting the the new studs into the hub, make sure that the "splines" of the stud line up with the "splines" of the hole.
Those "splines" are merely to ensure the studs hold strong and fast inside the hub, they don't have to "line up" with anything.
Yeah, I understand that. It just makes it easier to install when you don't have to cut new "splines". Plus, if you mess up those "splines", the lug may not be able to hold on tight.
BlownBlackZ wrote:OG Nick wrote:Please...use some good lube on the threads so that you don't gall them up. Anti seize is best.
NEVER EVER EVER EVER EVERRRRRRR use anti-sieze (or anything else for that matter) for lugnuts. I don't care how many say they've always done it with no problem, it's a bad bad bad bad idea. As long as the threads of the stud and the nut are clean, there's NO reason whatsoever to use anti sieze or anything on them. You'll get a false torque reading, and you run the risk of having the nuts back off. I take wheels off for a living, have been doing so for 10 years, and have never had a problem of my own doing.
You are the first person I have ever heard say that. I respectfully disagree. When I used to work at a garage, I destroyed a few studs installing them without a lube, with new nuts as well. My mentor told me to use anti seize and I never looked back. Mostly every person that cares about there car that I know uses anti seize on their lug nuts. As for the torque reading being off, I know thats not true. I measure that kind of thing at work. If you torque a nut to 100 ft/lbs without lube, part of that force has to overcome friction to turn the nut. If you lube the nut and stud up, there is less friction and the nut will turn farther for the same force. A lubricated nut WILL clamp harder than a non lubricated one.
Go Go OG Traction!!
OG Nick wrote:BlownBlackZ wrote:OG Nick wrote:Please...use some good lube on the threads so that you don't gall them up. Anti seize is best.
NEVER EVER EVER EVER EVERRRRRRR use anti-sieze (or anything else for that matter) for lugnuts. I don't care how many say they've always done it with no problem, it's a bad bad bad bad idea. As long as the threads of the stud and the nut are clean, there's NO reason whatsoever to use anti sieze or anything on them. You'll get a false torque reading, and you run the risk of having the nuts back off. I take wheels off for a living, have been doing so for 10 years, and have never had a problem of my own doing.
You are the first person I have ever heard say that. I respectfully disagree. When I used to work at a garage, I destroyed a few studs installing them without a lube, with new nuts as well. My mentor told me to use anti seize and I never looked back. Mostly every person that cares about there car that I know uses anti seize on their lug nuts. As for the torque reading being off, I know thats not true. I measure that kind of thing at work. If you torque a nut to 100 ft/lbs without lube, part of that force has to overcome friction to turn the nut. If you lube the nut and stud up, there is less friction and the nut will turn farther for the same force. A lubricated nut WILL clamp harder than a non lubricated one.
I can attest that he's not the only one in the "nothing on the lugs" school of thought. Use some anti-seize if you are having legitimate problems with corrosion, but I think that it's too often used when it's not necessary. It can make it easier for impact-gun junkies to get away with over tightening and crossthreading.
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OG Nick wrote:BlownBlackZ wrote:OG Nick wrote:When putting the the new studs into the hub, make sure that the "splines" of the stud line up with the "splines" of the hole.
Those "splines" are merely to ensure the studs hold strong and fast inside the hub, they don't have to "line up" with anything.
Yeah, I understand that. It just makes it easier to install when you don't have to cut new "splines". Plus, if you mess up those "splines", the lug may not be able to hold on tight.
BlownBlackZ wrote:OG Nick wrote:Please...use some good lube on the threads so that you don't gall them up. Anti seize is best.
NEVER EVER EVER EVER EVERRRRRRR use anti-sieze (or anything else for that matter) for lugnuts. I don't care how many say they've always done it with no problem, it's a bad bad bad bad idea. As long as the threads of the stud and the nut are clean, there's NO reason whatsoever to use anti sieze or anything on them. You'll get a false torque reading, and you run the risk of having the nuts back off. I take wheels off for a living, have been doing so for 10 years, and have never had a problem of my own doing.
You are the first person I have ever heard say that. I respectfully disagree. When I used to work at a garage, I destroyed a few studs installing them without a lube, with new nuts as well. My mentor told me to use anti seize and I never looked back. Mostly every person that cares about there car that I know uses anti seize on their lug nuts. As for the torque reading being off, I know thats not true. I measure that kind of thing at work. If you torque a nut to 100 ft/lbs without lube, part of that force has to overcome friction to turn the nut. If you lube the nut and stud up, there is less friction and the nut will turn farther for the same force. A lubricated nut WILL clamp harder than a non lubricated one.
I personally have never see any lubricant on wheel studs. I was always told never put lubricant on wheel studs or lugs....
Right on guys. This is all news to me. I will say though that I'm not saying everyone should put anti seize on all of their studs. I was just saying that it does make it easier to install the studs into the hub.
I can't for the life of me think of why anti seize would be a bad thing to use though. Does anyone have any reason why they have been told that? The only reason I have been told not to use anti seize before is because it is quite expensive, so don't use it if it really isn't needed.
Go Go OG Traction!!
it can cause there to be TOO much lubrication between the parts to LUG and HUB FACE or LUG AND LUG NUT, and cause the lug nut to not seat properly and back it self off. The purpose of anti seize is to make it so metals of different types dont corrode, or bind up and kinda become one metal. Granted you dont want you lug nuts to seize, but anti seize gives them a better chance of working them selves loose...
http://www.aa1car.com/library/2005/ic80560.htm
highlighted yellow part
WARNING: DO NOT USE OIL, GREASE, ANTI-SEIZE OR LUBRICANTS OF ANY KIND WHEN TIGHTENING LUG NUTS!
Proper torque on lug nuts is very important for three reasons. One is to keep the lug nuts from loosening up and the wheel coming loose, another is to prevent distortion of the brake rotor behind the wheel, and a third is to prevent broken studs. A torque wrench should be used for final tightening of the lug nuts, and the nuts should always be torqued to the recommended specifications.
CAUTION: Torque specifications for lug nuts are always for CLEANand DRY studs and lug nuts. That means no oil, no grease, no anti-seize and no lubricants of any kind. Any of these products will reduce the friction between the threads. This may seem like a good thing to prevent rust and frozen lug nuts, but the reduction in friction means a much higher percentage of the applied torque (up to 25% or more) will go toward loading the lug nuts. The end result may be brake rotor distortion or broken studs!
Wheel studs should be cleaned with a wire brush to remove rust and dirt BEFORE the wheels are mounted. If the lug nuts are heavily rusted or have damaged threads and won't turn easily on the studs, replace the lug nuts. The same goes for any wheel studs with damaged or badly corroded threads. And remember to mount the wheels DRY with nothing on the threads.
Well I got everything off, what genious at GM descided to used over sized star shaped security bits for those three bolts on the hub.
Christ I had nothing to get them off with so I had to grind a little bit to squeez the rods into the hub.
" Aint nothin' but a Peanut!"
They are called Torx and are very common
