I picked up a set of lower control arms from a friend for free. I ordered poly bushings and I'm going to put in new lower ball joints while I'm at it. I sand blasted them yesterday and got the bushings removed. I just need to remove the ball joint. Paint them up and then install the ball joint and bushings.
Questions:
1.) When I remove the OEM lower ball joint from the control arm and go to install the new one. Which way do I put the nuts on the bolts? Do the nuts go to the top or under the control arm? Or does it make no difference?
2.) I picked up a set of lower ball joints from NAPA, They arent sealed units like OEM but that doesnt matter, What matters to me is the boot isnt sealed with retaining rings or anything like that. The little rubber dome is just pushed over the joint. Is that right? Should I take them back and look for another brand? Is there any kind of protector medal washer that will go on top of the joint to protect the rubber from the spindle laying on top of it?
3.)When installing the control arm bushings. Do I install them with or without the metal sleeve in them. I'm sure I could press the bushings in first then press in the metal sleeve after?
Any help would be appriciated.
Regards,
the poly bushings do not use a metal sleeve, those are for the factory rubber bushings only.
I usually put bolts facing down, because if they are facing up they can sometimes interfere with your CV boot.
the boot will be pushed firmly onto the ball joint from tension. there is not a problem with the style you got, and the serviceable grease fitting > sealed unit IMO
-The sealed units from dealer are like $175 bucks/each.
-I already removed the metal sleeve from the big doughnut bushing at the back. I still have to remove the smaller ones tonight.
-I'll put the bolts facing down. I figured b/c of what you said about the C/V boot but I was just wanting a second opinion.
There is not a sleeve in the smaller bushings.
I had some trouble getting the small bushings out last night at first. So I finally just used a small propane torch and heated the metal for 1-2 minutes and they fell right out.
Those OEM rivets in the ball joints were a PITA to get out. Drilled all of them out then I also had to heat them up a little as well to finally get them punched through.
This is not an easy mod. Good thing I have this spare set of lower control arms.
So the nuts go on the bottom of the control arm. But why not on the top? I reached my hand in behind the spindle and there is tons of room in behind there. There is at least 4 inches between the lower control arm and the drive axel.
Only reason I ask this is b/c the grease fitting is on the bottom of the ball joint. With the nuts facing down I'm worried I wont be able to get a grease gun nipple on there to grease them.
What do you think?
well you need to worry about the clearance between the bolts and the CV boots...the rubber part.
Im lowered, and depending on the ball joint (if it has long bolts), and I put them facing up, I would shred my CV boot easily.
What I will have to do is tonight when I look at them I'll check which way the bolts will go through best. The bolts for the lower ball joints I got from NAPA look pretty short. I'll probably put them nuts to the bottom.
I was just worried about finding a grease gun with a short nipple to get access to that spot. Maybe I'm over reacting and thinking to much about it and there will be plenty of room. I'll take a look tonight during assembly.
Regards,
I WANT THOSE CONTROL ARMS!!!!!
Damn that's clean under there, Blu...but Fuzions? Ewww!
14.330 @ 96.37mph
Misnblu,
Thanks for the great pics, your always a great with helping out. What I ended up doing last night when I was installing the ball joints was put the nuts pointing down. Then I just went over to the local parts store and got a new angled grease nipple to put into the ball joint(problem solved). Mine dont have them on the bottom like yours. Mine have them in a real stupid pot. Ill take pictures tonight later after I get the bushings pressed in.
Regards,
Quote:
Damn that's clean under there, Blu...but Fuzions? Ewww!
Lol. At the time I bought those, the car was still daily driven. Even though they're the Fuzion HRi's, I've got no issues with handling right now.
Lightweight 18's and some nice rubber is in the works.
NeoJuice, no problem man.
Any time I do anything to the car that is kind of major, I chronicle what I do so that others can have some info on what was done. That's how I do things I guess.
And on the ball joints that I have, they're the el-cheapo's for about 20 bucks apiece. Once I modify the knuckles for the WilWoods, I'll be redoing the ball joints with some Moogs.
I'll probably have to use the 90 degree grease fittings like yours once this is done.
Good luck on the bushings. I'm not sure why you've got to get them pressed in as I didn't have to press mine in. Nothing like a good bench vice to do the job for you.
Good luck man and pictures ftw.
Misnblu.com
Newbie member since 1999
Thank you Dave and JBO! 
Misnblu wrote:Quote:
Damn that's clean under there, Blu...but Fuzions? Ewww!
Lol. At the time I bought those, the car was still daily driven. Even though they're the Fuzion HRi's, I've got no issues with handling right now.
Lightweight 18's and some nice rubber is in the works.
NeoJuice, no problem man.
Any time I do anything to the car that is kind of major, I chronicle what I do so that others can have some info on what was done. That's how I do things I guess.
And on the ball joints that I have, they're the el-cheapo's for about 20 bucks apiece. Once I modify the knuckles for the WilWoods, I'll be redoing the ball joints with some Moogs.
I'll probably have to use the 90 degree grease fittings like yours once this is done.
Good luck on the bushings. I'm not sure why you've got to get them pressed in as I didn't have to press mine in. Nothing like a good bench vice to do the job for you.
Good luck man and pictures ftw.
Misnblu,
I got the little split bushings in today. They were a little snug but got them greased up good and in there with one of those hand clamps. The rear doughnut i'm going to use a vise or get it pressed in. At this time I dont have a vise My duddy is out of town so I probably cant get it in until mid week.
I got a question for you, I do all my own work but I have a question about removed/install of the lower control arms. See what I think are my instructions to do the job.
Step1: Drivers side
-remove wheel
-pull pin from ball joint nut
-Undo lower ball joint nut
-undo swaybar endlinks on control arm and remove wiring for abs
-seperate lower ball joint from spindle (Do I need to rent a tool for this)
-remove frame piece then remove front control arm nut (drivers side)
-remove rear bolt.
-pull out and replace
-follow instructions above to re-install drivers side control arm.
Steps2: Pass Side:-remove wheel
-pull pin from ball joint nut
-Undo lower ball joint nut
-undo swaybar endlinks on control arm and remove wiring for abs
-seperate lower ball joint from spindle (Do I need to rent a tool for this)
-remove lower motor mount (should be fine to not support engine b/c upper motor mount is in? never had an issue when I put in my RK lower mount)
-remove front nut
-remove rear bolt
-pull out and replace
-follow instructions above to re-install pass side control arm.
As far as I was aware I dont have to remove the spindle. Take car into shop for wheel alignment.
Your thoughts?
Quote:
-seperate lower ball joint from spindle (Do I need to rent a tool for this)
No, you don't. Nothing a little influence of a good ole hammer can't take care of.
You may also loosen the ball joint by tapping the spindle some with a hammer to loosen it up.
Quote:
-remove frame piece then remove front control arm nut (drivers side)
-remove rear bolt.
-pull out and replace
-follow instructions above to re-install drivers side control arm.
Correct for the most part.
You can manipulate the control arm with a heavy duty flat blade screwdriver to pry the front part of the control arm first with some tugging of the rear control arm last. Once you figure it out, it'll be easy for the other side.
Also make sure that you remove the brace from the front of the lower radiator support to the front of the control arm on the drivers side.
Make sure that you do support the spindle if you decide to remove the spindle from the strut. I did this to have better access to work with the control arm.
Some good ole wire or a metal coat hanger works fine for retaining the spindle so it doesn't have pressure on the cv axle while you're working on the control arms.
Other than that, all else looks good.
It's not hard and if you can take it apart, you should be able to put it all back together.
Torque the bolts back to spec or do like I do and torque the sh*t out of it so you know it's not coming off or loose.
Good luc with it.
Now I've got to prepare for Gustav.
Misnblu.com
Newbie member since 1999
Thank you Dave and JBO!
MisnBlu
Thanks for the info. I might attempt this today. Since my buddy isnt around I'm going to call a couple parts stores to see if they have a press to get those rear bushings in today. If I can get that done I might attept this today or tomorrow since tomorrow I have off work.
Was I correct for the pass side? Do I need to remove the lower motor mount to get at the bolt? That is what I can see from looking under the car.
Regards,
Quote:
Was I correct for the pass side? Do I need to remove the lower motor mount to get at the bolt? That is what I can see from looking under the ca
I removed mine on one end and just pivoted the mount out of the way for easier access.
The upper mount did good to hold the engine in place but I supported the engine anyway with a piece of wood under the oil pan with a jack holding up the engine in a very gentle way.
Other than that, no problems with the install of the arms.
Good luck.
Misnblu.com
Newbie member since 1999
Thank you Dave and JBO!
Blu nice write up I am going to be using this in the coming months. And your underside is sexy and what I am working towards, the cleanliness and parts so SEXY!!!
The proper way of using the word seen. It is not I seen it that would be I saw it. He has seen the car is the right way to use the word. English class is Cool. By the way thats my sig
Thanks Erma.
Holler if you need any help with anything.
Misnblu.com
Newbie member since 1999
Thank you Dave and JBO!
Lol you might hate saying that but I will keep it in mind thank you.
The proper way of using the word seen. It is not I seen it that would be I saw it. He has seen the car is the right way to use the word. English class is Cool. By the way thats my sig
Excuse me if this was written but where did your control arm come from, bc mine are not cast like your there pressed sheet metal. are these from alero/ or newer model.
PS Just put new ball joints on base 99 stick 2.2 and then WTF realized i didnt have sway bar!
David Puerner wrote:Excuse me if this was written but where did your control arm come from, bc mine are not cast like your there pressed sheet metal. are these from alero/ or newer model.
PS Just put new ball joints on base 99 stick 2.2 and then WTF realized i didnt have sway bar!
The control arms you see were modified to fit and are from a 1999 Olds Alero.
The 1999 Grand Am and Alero of the same year have the aluminum control arms that can be modded to fit the J-body.
Here is more information about the modification to the control arms.
It's not hard to do and can use ordinary hand tools to make it all happen.
Misnblu.com
Newbie member since 1999
Thank you Dave and JBO!
You are just full of great info and right ups. This really is one the most informative threads I have read in such a long time. Thanks for the help. I forgot about this mod.
The proper way of using the word seen. It is not I seen it that would be I saw it. He has seen the car is the right way to use the word. English class is Cool. By the way thats my sig
