IM MAKING MY OWN REAR TIE BAR AND I WAS WONDERING IF THERE IS ANYONE ELSE WHO WOULD BE INTERESTED IN THESE? THE WHOLE SETUP WOULD RUN AROUND $100 PLUS SHIPPING. I HOPE TO HAVE PICS UP HERE SOON, IM JUST WAITING TO GET MY ROD. THIS KIT IS HEAVY DUTY AND WOULD INCLUDE THE FOLLOWING ITEMS:

2x - HEIM JOINTS 5/8 x 5/8
1x - 1" x 34" DIA. ALUMINUM ROD TAPPED
2x - CUSTOM STAINLESS STEEL BRACKETS (MADE TO FIT ADD CO REAR SWAY, POSSIBLY EIBACH BUT NOT SURE)
2x - 5/8 x 2" GRADE 8 ZINC PLATED BOLTS
2x - 5/8 HEAVY DUTY ZINC PLATED LOCK WASHERS
2x - 5/8 GRADE 8 ZINC PLATED NUTS

PLEASE RESPOND TO THIS AND LET ME KNOW IF YOU ARE INTERESTED. ALSO LET ME KNOW IF THERE IS ANYTHING THAT YOU WOULD LIKE TO BE MADE FOR THE J-BODY. I WORK AT A MACHINE SHOP AND HAVE A GOOD KNOW-HOW ON HOW TO CREATE NEW ITEMS.

THANKS PHIL

you do not need to yell.

i need pics.



Wanting a nice set of black 17's with mint tires? Pm me.

How hard would it be to install, I know I want a rear sway with a tie bar, but I dont know how involved the install is. Any drilling required? A bolt-on peice would be great, if thats possible.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Monday, March 10, 2008 11:32 AM

WELL I HAVE THE ADDCO REAR SWAY AND IT WAS A DIRECT BOLT IN, NO SPECIAL TOOLS AT ALL. THE MOUNT THAT WOULD COME WITH THIS WOULD HAVE THE MOUNTING HOLE FOR THE ADDCO REAR SWAY, BUT IM NOT SURE IF THE ADDCO AND EIBACH ARE THE SAME HOLE PATTERN AND LOCATION. THIS WOULD BE A COMPLETLY BOLT ON INSTALATION. PRETTY MUCH REMOVE THE LOWER STRUT BOLT, AND INSTALL THE BAR AND BRACKET THEN RE INSTALL THE BOLT. BUT IF YOU DONT HAVE THE REAR SWAY BAR ALREADY, ALL YOU WOULD HAVE TO DO IS BUY A LONGER BOLT TO WORK WITH THE 1/4" FLANGE! I WILL POST PICS OF THE BRACKET AND LINK TONIGHT, BUT I STILL DONT HAVE THE BAR.

I FORGOT TO MENTION THAT THE KIT WOULD ALSO INCLUDE 2x 5/8 JAM NUTS FOR THE HEIM JOINTS

lol man take off YOUR CAPS LOCK!!!











~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

better work on that premium membership too.



Desert Tuners

“When you come across a big kettle of crazy, it’s best not to stir it.”

he's probably on a work computer and doesn't realize caps lock is on.


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my carDomain updated 3/6/07 Boosted by 100K or B-day!

Ok I turned off my caps, and yes I am at work. So just by ear, who is interested in a rear tie bar for $100!

you mean like this?





Wanting a nice set of black 17's with mint tires? Pm me.

Exactly like that, but its more heavy duty. Here are some pictures of my links and brackets. I should be getting my bar tomorrow. Let mw know if you are interested. My email is p4286arc@aol.com. Thanks.

the only stuff i see more heavy duty are the bolts in the heim joints... which is good but over kill i think. my bracket is actually beefier then your's though. its not a bent piece, its actually a piece of angle iron. but i do not see anything wrong with your's, although i would much rather prefer mine.

my bar is kinda small and flimsy so depending on the thickness of your bar, i may be more interested...



Wanting a nice set of black 17's with mint tires? Pm me.

Id be interested if the Angle brack/L bracket was beefier.

Btw, whats the benefit of the tie bar, im not sure what it does.. I have the sway bar back there as well.











~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

Im still waiting for two other machine shops to give my prices on the brackets made out of angle. I made those quickly to layout the wholes and get an idea. But hopefulle I will have these made out of 1/4 x 3-1/2 x 3-1/2 angle.

WHITECAVY wrote:Id be interested if the Angle brack/L bracket was beefier.

Btw, whats the benefit of the tie bar, im not sure what it does.. I have the sway bar back there as well.

It's supposed to stiffen the rear end, preventing flex. The funny thing is, it actually creates flex in the corners lol.



fortune cookie say: better a delay than a disaster

^^ yeah well i know it helped my car, sure i dont auto X it.. but i can assure you it helped.



Wanting a nice set of black 17's with mint tires? Pm me.

I made those angle bracket's on zyaaa's car and I think angle iron is defiantly the way to go. Not only is it stronger than that bent stainless, but it can easily be welded to the trailing arm to prevent rotation.

The idea behind the tie bar is to "box in" the rear axle. This keeps the distance between the trailing arms the same and make the rear end stiffer and more consistent under cornering. However, since we are dealing with a trailing arm setup, any deflection on one side (such as a bump) under cornering can also upset the opposite side. This effect is exaggerated by a tie bar.

well the only thing im waiting for now is my bar which im getting tonight. i contacted the machine shops and i might have it made out of 5/16 steel angle. i should have this whole thing squared away in a few days. thanks

just be sure to take in account the bar likes to hit the exhaust pipe... (this is why i took mine off)



Wanting a nice set of black 17's with mint tires? Pm me.

Thanks for the explanation guys.. I was also wondering about the it hitting the exhaust pipe, I have 3" under there.











~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

Listening


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Primer Counts as Custom Paint Right?
BTW: This is my Sig.

I was contacted this morning by another machine shop. Im getting 10 brackets made out of 5/16 x 3 x 3-1/2 steel angle. Should have them soon!

My exhaust isnt fully completed yet, but if it hits, you can get some high temperature foam pipe insulation used for steam pipes to wrap the bar with! I will probablly do this anyway. my 2.5 turbo back will be creating a lot of heat, so it will just be better to do it now, then waiting till later!

would there be any possible way of maybe flattening out the driver side of the bar where the exhaust would be coming into contact with it? its either that or 'clearance' the exhaust pipe or do like im going to do and make a special bend in the pipe right where the bar would hit.



Wanting a nice set of black 17's with mint tires? Pm me.

Is there any reason why you couldnt get a longer bolt, put a standoff underkneath the bracket and lower the bar assembly? That would lower where the bar would mount and possibly give you 1" to play with. My neighbor has a stock cavalier, I will ask her if I can install my setup on hers, to see about the clearance issues.

So is there any interest in this setup yet? Its only $100 for a complete bolt on assembly!