oh ok, so yeah that makes perfect sense, even though they were labled different codes MK7 VS (forgket the LD9 tranny) i knew they were the same tranny, but different housings like you had mentioned.
I just thought that they'd sit in different postions relative to the wheels, and thats why there was a difference between 2200/2.4 axels
1998 Chevrolet Cavalier
5-spd
N-Body automatics are 4T45E trannys, J-Body 4 speed automatics are 4T40E trannys. They are very similar, not quite identical. But the output splines are the same, so the same inner CV fits both.
I had a thought while pricing out everything needed to do this swap and I'd like others opinions onthese thoughts:
I got both knuckles complete with rotors, calipers and hoses from the junk yard for $170 for both sides, then the drilled & slotted 12" Impala rotors are $250 for the pair, the dual piston calipers and brackets were $250, braided brake lines $95 then having to buy 4 new wheels since Riax Seca's don't come in 5 x 115 were $800 ( plus i lose the ability to rotate the tires) also I'd have to get either custom axles or buy stock N or W axles then swap parts around. Now the total of all of that is $1565 ( not including the axle stuff ) vs the Baer 13" big brake kit $1250 and I can keep the rims and axles I already have, it seems to me I'll come out better buying the Baer kit, what do you guys think?
2000 Z24 5spd header & catback for now.
It all depends on each person's car. For example, me, if I wanted anything bigger, I had to get new rims regardless (up from stock 16's). So for me, it doesn't count.
$95 for everything from the junkyard, $55 for front SS lines, $130 for brembo plain rotors, $65 for the hawk pads. You're getting hosed at the yard, the SS lines you could get for cheaper, rotors are your choice, and you are really getting hosed on the calipers.
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- Sold my beloved J in April 2010 -
I paid less than $320 for for all the parts to do mine. Hosed isn't even the word for those outrageous prices.
I got my rims off eBay for $800 with rubber, I sold the tires for $300 (were brand new).
II did this swap to get the 5x115 pattern to match the rear (N-body IRS swap). Just so happened that it gave me the opportunity to greatly increase the brakes at the same time. It was all decently cheap for me, and simply bolts together.
Dale: If you're leaving the back alone and don't have rims that do both patterns you might really want to go with a BBK. It'll be quite a bit less work at any rate. Plus if you ever sell the car the next owner is going to be put off something mighty that the front and rear patterns don't match and the spare is only good on the rear (since I have all 5x115 I have an Impala spare).
UPDATE!!!!
Well after having a clicking drivers axle for 2 months i got a reman Nbody drivers axle......... (insert drum roll)
It fits perfect. The axle i got was identical length as the stock J axle. Meaning no more hybrid axles.
So i suggest NOT using the normal length aluminum control arms as it could pull on the axle too much around turns.
Also when i compared the 2 axles hybrid and stock n body the hybrid was about 1/2" longer from inner cup to outer hub seat.
Sorry i didnt get any pix as it was raining and i wanted to get it done ASAP
Thanks to TaetschZ24 for convincing me to try it, im glad i did!
So you are saying that the 2 N-body axles I have sitting in my garage I can just put them in and not have to worry about swapping the j outer joint? Sweet.
Car is for Sale!Supercharger kit is for sale!
Wrench Monkey wrote:Thanks to TaetschZ24 for convincing me to try it, im glad i did!
I'm pretty sure I've been saying to try it all along!!! lol.
SPD RCR Z -
'02 Z24 420whp
SLO GOAT -
'04 GTO 305whp
W41 BOI -
'78 Buick Opel Isuzu W41 Swap
Are the rotors not different bolt patterns? Do you have to run staggered fit wheels?
I have dual pattern wheels. so yes the bolt patterns are different, but with me finding the drivers axle to be the same it makes the swap that much easier.
^ I'm gonna be getting some new N-body axles here in the next couple days. I have an automatic, and I went by the autoparts store and tried to get some info on the axles, but all the guy had was pictures, and fromthe pictures, they were identical, input shaft and length wise.
So hopefully both axles are the same. I'll keep everyone updated.
Car is for Sale!Supercharger kit is for sale!
id guess the auto axles are the same just like the manuals. i need to get the pass axle to find out if its the same as well. hopefully it is
Can the N-body components be off a Grand Prix or Alero ? OR must everything be off a 2000 Malibu ? I am assuming it must be a 3100 equipped vehicle ?
My Cav
I give up...
i'm buying a VW those people love trees, so they should love eachother too... "Andy"
I meant Grand Am in my above post, not Grand Prix***
My Cav
I give up...
i'm buying a VW those people love trees, so they should love eachother too... "Andy"
Engine doesn't matter. Only suspension codes matter. Malibus all have FE1 = Drum rear brakes. Grand AM SEs have FE1 as well. GAM GTs and Aleros have FE2 or FE3 = Rear Disc brakes with 15 or 17mm sway bars respectively IIRC.
Im asking about the front more so, The How to in this thread says N-Body 2000 Malibu, So I was just curious to if their were any variations in the front steering knuckles axles ect between the different N-bodys.
My Cav
I give up...
i'm buying a VW those people love trees, so they should love eachother too... "Andy"
Fronts are all the same except the control arms which were aluminum in 1999, and are identical to ours (except 1/2" longer) in 00-05.
not the one Tom just swapped in..... his 'hybrid' axle was actually alightly longer then the OEM N-Body axle.... (Drivers side, shorter axle)
SPD RCR Z -
'02 Z24 420whp
SLO GOAT -
'04 GTO 305whp
W41 BOI -
'78 Buick Opel Isuzu W41 Swap
Soooooo wtf lol. One person actually used a n-body axle and it fit right, and someone says that it wont work without the n-body control arms, I was gonna buy some new n-body axles today to see if they were the same length as my current axles.
Looks like its gonna be a test for me
Worst case scenario I have to get n-body control arms............
Car is for Sale!Supercharger kit is for sale!
i have the poly control arm bushings which i assume are helping from keeping my axle from binding. but so far so good and no problems.
I still have some type of "thumping" (no longer clicking) from the driver side axle. I replaced the outer cv joints on both sides, and the only time i hear this new thumping coming from the suspension is when doing a long sweeping turn. im pissed yet again. perhaps the inside tripod is binding, i duno. but it sure is pissing me the @!#$ off. u guys got any ideas?
new outer cv joints (maybe i got a bad one?)
new hub bearings
new ball joints
new poly a-arm bushings
wtf.
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- Sold my beloved J in April 2010 -
Wrench Monkey wrote:i have the poly control arm bushings which i assume are helping from keeping my axle from binding. but so far so good and no problems.
like we said, your N-body axle is a tad shorter (laying side by side) then the hybrid axle...... no reason it would bind. In its 'relaxed' state, it has room to move in or out, so its in a happy medium. The N-body has longer control arms and strut towers are spaced out farther..... but the axles seem to be the same length..... it is odd.
SPD RCR Z -
'02 Z24 420whp
SLO GOAT -
'04 GTO 305whp
W41 BOI -
'78 Buick Opel Isuzu W41 Swap
