ok, im extremely frustrated right now. how the hell are you guys keeping your cv boots tight? no matter what i do, i still get some type of damn leak somewhere when the wheel spins. really @!#$ frustrated right now.
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- Sold my beloved J in April 2010 -
I have worm gear hose clamps holding my boots. No problems.
SPD RCR Z -
'02 Z24 420whp
SLO GOAT -
'04 GTO 305whp
W41 BOI -
'78 Buick Opel Isuzu W41 Swap
dude, wtf are you doing. i have the same thing. i've tried normal tightness, really tight, tighten after some time, less tight, more tight, every @!#$ type of tight you can get. then i tried double worm gears, which turned out to be REALLY bad because i just got grease ALL over the place, and spent 3 hours getting the grease off my pads and rotors. it was on there so thick, i'm surprised the car even stopped. right now, just extremely frustrated. car stops well, but @!#$ man.
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- Sold my beloved J in April 2010 -
I have the "special" clamps on mine. The ones you need to use the stupid @!#$ tool for. yep put em on once and never leaked grease
how tight did you put your worm gear clamps?
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- Sold my beloved J in April 2010 -
changed clamps again, this time back to worm clamps, and only tightened them until they were "tight". still some leakage, and i dont know why dammit!!!!!!! my next step is to silicone the whole edge.
on a lighter note, i had a clicking sound that i could feel through the floorboard. i narrowed it down to the driver side cv joint, so i changed that, and now its all nice and dandy.
i sure have had to take this apart WAY too many times, but at least it brakes damn well and looks amazing in my wheels
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- Sold my beloved J in April 2010 -
ExESIVE FIRE now with CTS wrote:i was looking more along the lines of the dual piston gxp calipers
like
these?
They should work fine (as long as you have the caliper and slider)....... look a lot like my F-body dual piston calipers.
SPD RCR Z -
'02 Z24 420whp
SLO GOAT -
'04 GTO 305whp
W41 BOI -
'78 Buick Opel Isuzu W41 Swap
Where can I find directions, or even some info on the Camaro rear brake swap without doing the IRS setup? Or is it even possible to do withough the IRS?
~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ
The Camaro or Corvette rear disc swap is the Baer kit. Won't work with the IRS swap, the hub is different. Well... I'm sure you could make a new backing plate for larger rear discs, but it's not worth the work for the extra inch larger rear discs.... at least, not to me.
The Baer swap is the backing plates... 89-96 Y-body calipers with e-brake attachments (sometimes come with the calipers, sometimes don't)... F or Y body rear rotors, re-drilled to 5x100 to fit on the J-Car rear hub.... (or get a set directly from Baer like I have, which are the same rotors but only the 5x100 pattern, not double-drilled with both patterns)...
...j
If i go with Nbody axles and Aluminum control arms will i be able to avoid shortening the control arms as well as making the "hybrid" axle? Or has anybody got an nbody axle to fit in on stock J parts?
I don't even know what's what on my car anymore... let's see...
Hubs: 00 C-body
Knuckles: 99 N-body
Control arms: 99 N-body
Brakes: 00 C-body
Axles: Dutchman Motorsport custom length shafts with 00 C-body inner and outer CV's
^ and tranny.
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- Sold my beloved J in April 2010 -
Quiklilcav wrote:Yes, you can use the N-Body axles if you use the N-Body control arms and don't shorten them. IIRC, thats what Lenko is doing. This will just push your hubs out farther. Perfect for a wide body car.
ok what?
i can or cant use the full N-Body setup on a 2200 5spd?
1998 Chevrolet Cavalier
5-spd
i did not know any N Body's came with the 2200/2.2L OHV?
As the DOHC engines were different trannys, the 3.1/3100/3400 are relatively the same transmission.
I'm a bit confused...?
1998 Chevrolet Cavalier
5-spd