alright guys in an effort to try and get my car's handling back after my little accident, I'm starting to think the skwirl could use a complete revamp of the front suspension (tie rods, ball joints, wheel hub assemblies) even tho everything feels tight I noticed some sloppiness in my a-arms which is strange since I have prothane poly bushings
so I figure one of my a-arms is bent or both or whatever so I looked into new ones from GM and found there's two different types of a-arm.. standard and heavy duty
here's the p/n
standard
left 22611124
right 22611125
heavy duty
left 22611126
right 22611127
anybody have more info on these? Lenko? any 3rd gen gurus?
I'd prefer to have a slightly stronger a-arm since now I'm thinking that may have been a contributing factor to my broken axel a few weeks ago
Got me on the difference... appears to be an RPO code thing.
Here's what I know...
"Active Ride" (I think this is FE0?)
98-02
L 22611124
R 22611125
"Soft Ride" (FE1?)
L 22611124
R 22611125
"Ride/Handling" (FE2?)
95-96
L 22603949
R 22611127
97-05
L 22611126
R 22611127
Don't know why the 95-96 FE2 number is different on the left side either...
thanks lenko
i'm gonna be looking into trying to find out wtf the difference is.. i'm very very curious.. especially since up until now, I thought all 3rd gen jbody a-arms were the same (other than left and right obviously)
are the n-body 99 grand am/alero aluminum ones "Stronger" than stock cavalier's?? i would like to think so since they are a solid chunk and not just a stamped piece.
do you know what the actual difference between them is?
I believe its the bushing. There a little stiffer... At least my z24 on the original sale sheet it says stage 2 suspension. I crashed the car and need a control arm so I went to the yard. The guy there got me one but he said its from a regular cavy... the only difference in the bushing compresses about 100psi less than the z24 ones. I dont know if this is true thats what I wanted to share.
I'd believe it, theres a deffinate difference between my car and one of my friends Z24 as far as response goes for the front of the car, same alignment, front sway etc...
Thats ok tho because I got polys going in
-Chris
Do dealer sourced arms come with the bushings installed? That could be why they have different numbers. Although I don't know if the bushings are different for each RPO on 3rd gens, I know they are on 2nd gens.
Does anyone make tubular front a-arms for our cars?
2000 Z24 5spd header & catback for now.
no rksport made thenm and they always broke. pj i am in the same boat expt my enmy is wheel hop. i can't seem to get rid of it.
In another post John Lenko found that the aluminum a-arms from the 99 Ga & Alero fit our cars and the poly bushing kits fit as well as the ball joints, so now I'm on the hunt for the aluminum a-arms as I have brand new ball joints and poly bushings that I can install.
2000 Z24 5spd header & catback for now.
I got my aluminum a-arms today so I'll drill out the rivets and have them welded so I can install my ball joints, bushings and Addco 26mm sway bars, also hopefully my weld in subframe connectors at the same time.
2000 Z24 5spd header & catback for now.
So the damn ball joints come installed on new a-arms? because I just spent 3 hours on 2 rivets and I was still unable to drill them out!!
~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ
Dale Young wrote:In another post John Lenko found that the aluminum a-arms from the 99 Ga & Alero fit our cars and the poly bushing kits fit as well as the ball joints, so now I'm on the hunt for the aluminum a-arms as I have brand new ball joints and poly bushings that I can install.
So ur drilling out the GA ball joints to put your cavy ones in? Did I read that right?
~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD
AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ
Yes Whitecavy the aluminum GA arms are 1/2" longer than the Cavy arms and the balljoints on the 99 are a different size. So you have to cut off the rivet heads or drill them out then have the holes welded up then make a 1/2" template the shape of the balljoint end of the control arm, mark it then cut off the 1/2" and drill the new holes for the cavy balljoint, install your ball joints and poly bushings and you're done. Look in this forum for the post about aluminum a-arms because they have plenty of pics and step by step instructions. I hope to have mine done by the end of the week so I can install them along with my weld in subframe connectors and 26mm Addco front & rear sway bars.
2000 Z24 5spd header & catback for now.
