now for starters i dont want opinons because plain and simple i dont give a s%^t b/c i know its gonna be something like this, "why do you want this? so you can drift a cav????" i just want to know if anyone knows how to hook one up to a rear disc conv on a 3rd gen with the IRS swap while still maintaining the regular brakes for all 4 wheels. any help would be much appreciated because i have searched all over and i cant find anythng on them.
many changes in the making
my favorite part about doing bodywork,.......... bondo bugers
wish i could help, but i've never seen one of those.
well for starters why would you want to do this?
i jsut had to
i dont know how they run but my guess would be they jsut apply hydralic pressure, so what you would do is install check valves on the rear lines from the master cylinder, this way the pressure from the handbrake doesnt work against the whole system.
My car may run 18s, but I can do your taxes in 10 seconds flat.
JBO lube - they would never have enough in stock and we'd never see RodimusPrime again
You'll probably need a hydraulic spot caliper on one or both sides, or at least that would make it alot easier to plumb. A check valve would work also, but isn't the 3rd gen system split diagonal? You would only get one rear to lock if you did it that way. If its split front to rear that would work great.
your right it is diaganol......then i have no idea
My car may run 18s, but I can do your taxes in 10 seconds flat.
JBO lube - they would never have enough in stock and we'd never see RodimusPrime again
and if you used check valves, the fluid couldnt return to the master and the brakes would stay locked. is there any way to replumb it and make it run front rear instead of diag??
many changes in the making
my favorite part about doing bodywork,.......... bondo bugers
come on guys where are all you brake guru's when i need ya??
many changes in the making
my favorite part about doing bodywork,.......... bondo bugers
Your original question was asking how to plumb this in while still maintaining the regular brakes for all 4 wheels. Now you're asking about dicking up the stock system just to make this work.
You mentioned in your original post that you didn't want to hear questions about why you're doing this and what not so I won't ask. Just ask yourself whether it's still worth it now that it's going to potentially put your life in danger in the event of a brake line failure.
Maybe it is. Maybe you're building some circle track car or something. I don't know. Just consider it.
These are normally for trailor queen track cars. Disconnect the rear brakes and plumb them into that. You could make it work with a few vales, but check-valves will not work even with replumbing for a front/rear split.
Also 3rd gen's with ABS aren't just split diagonal. Some years are split 3 ways, independant fronts with linked rears, some are 4 ways all independant. I think some years the ABS was still 2 way diagonal. GM has used many different configurations. If you have proportioning valves on the brake lines under the car under the driver's seat then it's diagonal. Otherwise it's a 3 or 4 way split system.
Personally I wouldn't muck with it. A N-body e-brake cable can be hooked right up, and the e-brake works better than ever. I know cause that's what I did.
well my 03 doesnt hav abs thank god, and of course safety is my #1 concern. this car will not be a trailer queen nor will it be a dd, this will be a track and street car, i have a call into tein and ssbc about getting a custom suspension and brake setup for an IRS swap. i just wanted to know if i could do this without using 4 piston calipers, i know its alot of work and will take some ingeneuity to get it to work safely and properly but these are all the same comments that i see when anyone tries something new, and the world needs pioneers, so any other info will be greatly appreciated and thank you all for everything so far.
many changes in the making
my favorite part about doing bodywork,.......... bondo bugers
What does this hydraulic ebrake handle have to do with whether or not you have to use 4 piston calipers?
If I recall right the way this works is... The handbrake unit is actually the "Check Valve". It'll be easier for you to adapt since you don't have ABS. You'll have to cut the rear brakelines somewhere and put in a T/Y fitting then run the single line into the e-brake cylinder. Then run another single line from the e-brake cylinder to another T/Y fitting and reconnect the rear brakelines.
Basically it would look like this.
2 Brake lines coming from the Front ====>-----e-brake-----<====2 Brake lines to the Rear.
When you apply the handbrake the cylinder will apply the needed pressure to the rear brakes and presto.
I was looking onto this a little while back so I could run Billet Calipers and take off my Camaro rears.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Thursday, December 21, 2006 11:59 AM
"The FACTS are always subject to CHANGE once the TRUTH is applied"
"In the entire history of man the only stupid questions are the ones that don't get asked"
to answer weasel, i would use the 4 piston so that the inside would runn on the stock brakes and the outside would use the ebrake, but then i really thought about that and decided to can that idea. john, thanks sooooo much, that helped alot and explained why there were 2 fittings on the ebrake master, my other idea, would be to run dual calipers opposite from each other on the rear but that would cost alot. i think im gona try what john said and see how that goes. now if i can just get the air jacks figured ot then ill be all set
thanks guys
many changes in the making
my favorite part about doing bodywork,.......... bondo bugers
Oh hell no!!!
That's not at all how 4 piston calipers work!! You need even pressure on both sides or you'll just end up screwing up your rotors. You want to squeeze them, not push them.
John's comments make sense. Yours do not. You clearly don't understand the complexities of a braking system so please do some research before going any further with this.
^ Not necessarily...I have seen full floating 4 and 6 piston calipers. However its still wont work with what hes trying to do.
At first thought you could run the factory system on one side then the ebrake on the other but when you push the ebrake side it will push the stock side and bottom out the piston on the stock side before it starts to hold anything and vise versa so that wont work at all. You could do it if you had some electronic shutoff valves tied to the brake actuators(pedal and level). That way when the stock pedal was depressed the actuator would close off the line between the ebrake master cylinder and the ebrake side of the caliper, thus keeping the brake fluid stuck in the brake line and holding the piston in its spot and allowing you to put pressure against it and it will hold. Vise versa for the ebrake....have an electronic valve close the line between the stock MS and the factory side of the 4 or 6 piston calipers. Theres alot to this type of setup and more to it than I listed but I have built it before(on a formula race car) and it does work. But might not be well suited for a car. I just thought I would share it with you guys.
well like i said weasel, i thought about it while i was writing that then after i posted, i realized that that was just rediculus and realized what i said. i know full well how brake systems work, hydraulic e-brakes however are somewhat new to me but i hav it all figured out.
many changes in the making
my favorite part about doing bodywork,.......... bondo bugers
guys why make it any harder than it is
a emergency brake simply holds pressure on the rear pads right
get a 2 into one hydraulic manifold, install the valve, and add another manifold going 1 into 2. once the brakes are applied the valve can be closed effectively locking the rear calipers and presto your done
HORN BROKEN.....WATCH FOR FINGER!!!
ya, thats what john said, its basically wat im gonna do
many changes in the making
my favorite part about doing bodywork,.......... bondo bugers
John VanCuran wrote:well my 03 doesnt hav abs thank god, and of course safety is my #1 concern. this car will not be a trailer queen nor will it be a dd, this will be a track and street car, i have a call into tein and ssbc about getting a custom suspension and brake setup for an IRS swap. i just wanted to know if i could do this without using 4 piston calipers, i know its alot of work and will take some ingeneuity to get it to work safely and properly but these are all the same comments that i see when anyone tries something new, and the world needs pioneers, so any other info will be greatly appreciated and thank you all for everything so far.
John, if you/tein are serious about making N-body coilovers for the swap in our cars I'd be interested in the SS line since I already have those and love them and see if they can make the N-body struts compatible with the J's EDFC setup already designed. If tein is worried about support you can tell tein I'm ready whenever they are to purchase the rear set.
Wow. You're making this way too complicated. Just add a spot caliper (maybe one on each side depending on what you are actually going to be using this setup for). No re-plumbing of stock lines, no swapping calipers, just a simple bracket and a line.
