Front Rotor and Piston sizes for GM Cars in 2000:
Body . . . Rotor . . . . . . . Piston Bore (Qty)
J . . . . . . .10.203" . . . . . 57mm (1)
N . . . . . . 10.940" . . . . . 63.5mm (1)
W-GP . . 10.940" . . . . . 63.5mm (1)
W-I&MC .11.920" . . . . . 63.5mm (1)
Fbody . . 11.920" . . . . . 63.5mm (2) (rear caliper is 38mm)
Anybody else see a trend where GM reuses designs?
So the F body calipers have about 9.8 sq-in of surface area, and the Js have almost 4.
I can personally attest that the F calipers are way f---ing strong on my poor little J.
I love my F-body brakes!!!
I'm still tossing around getting the N-body control arms.... would make getting replacement axles alot easier...... I would also need the Toyota Cav fenders then....
SPD RCR Z -
'02 Z24 420whp
SLO GOAT -
'04 GTO 305whp
W41 BOI -
'78 Buick Opel Isuzu W41 Swap
A was about to say, that 38 just didn't seem right to me Are you sure that the Fbody uses dual 63's? because thats pretty big to try to fit two of em. where'd you find that info?
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- Sold my beloved J in April 2010 -
Lost the website now. Had replacement parts for calipers. Not 100% sure, but I'm here to tell you they are not small pistons. I fully rebuilt mine before installing them.
This swap must also increase pad life if you think about it., pressure distributed more evenly along a larger surface, fantastic wirte up indeed !!
+ Would the Aluminum control arm swap work with this without full modification LIKE on the J assembly ?
My Cav
I give up...
i'm buying a VW those people love trees, so they should love eachother too... "Andy"
Nope. N CAs still need to be shortened by 1/2"
I've got an update for you guys....I found a N-body front wheel bearing made by BCA pn# 513137 from Kragen/Advance Auto that comes with both 5x115 AND 5x100 drilled into the hub flange. So all you gotta do is pop the studs out of the 5x115 set and into the 5x100 and your set and ready to use your stock rims with the NWF swap.
except for the fact that 1) the hub bore is still too big (70mm) compared to the stock 57.1. 2) the fbody caliper is pretty large and i doubt would fit in ANY of the stock rims.
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- Sold my beloved J in April 2010 -
OK so STOCK wheels might be out of the questions, unless its possilbe to machine the hubs larger, but if you got the right wheels in 5x100 with the right hub clearnace at least you dont have to get dual bolt patterns on and squeeze the 5x114.3 on the front. eh...just a thought
O by the way guys I did the math by hand and with SolidWorks-COSMOS to verify some interesting results of the 5x114.3 squeezing onto 5x115 and as long as you change you lugs every ~54k miles you will have no problems.....thats 60k with decently bad nicks and grooves in the lugs for the crack propagation to occur and Grade 8 steel. If you get ARP studs that look good with no surface imperfections and dont drop them or nick them I'd say your above the endurance limit and wont ever have a problem. This data is only valid for HUB-centric applications and not LUG-centric applications.
All these numbers include a factor of safety of 1.85 which is pretty standard for automotive use.
Someone should try the 16" stockers. They will be very close, not sure if they'll fit or not. I know the W and F bodies came with 16" rims, so that size will fit, it's whether it hits the spokes or not that's the question.
I have a W body spare tire and it looks tiny, but it fits.
i know that the wbody spokes are relatively flat, and the fbody spokes do move outwards, vs the jbody that move inwards. the 12" w/ dual piston caliper will definitely not work, but it could be a definite close call with the 11" and single piston caliper. only setback is that you'll need to have the rotors redrilled and your stock wheel bores increased (i would suggest doing all four in case you want to rotate tires and in case you get a flat tire up front) and then run two hub rings in the back. again, you'll still need to do the n-axles and w/n-knuckles. also, the single piston upgrade and slightly larger rotor might not be worth all the effort.
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- Sold my beloved J in April 2010 -
That's a lot of extra work just to marginalize the results of all that work...
My W-Body rims are curved slightly outward, the hub face is inset compared to the spokes by about 1/2"
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Sunday, November 26, 2006 3:45 PM
^Agreed....after I found out that the lugs are good for atleast 50k I decided to get dual bolt pattern wheels and change my lugs often. ARP lugs here we come!
Screw the 5x100 pipe dream for me....its just now I got a set of wheels that 15 days after I bought them I decided to do the NFW swap....sigh.
Viper..I have to say, for what your trying to do your gonna have to take something the machine shop or fabricate something and along with that comes risks or incompatibilities. I really think it is your best bet to just machine the rims to fit and use the dual bolt pattern hubs. But if you need something fabbed let me know....I can hook you up with some drawings.
^ are you talking about the custom wilwoods im doing or something else?
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- Sold my beloved J in April 2010 -
I dont know.........you think about it and let me know
, Basically when you got a plan let me know if you need some fabbed brackets or something and I can get you some drawings made up for a machine shop to save you some time and help ya out.
i'm about to graduate as a mechanical engineer with plenty of software and machinery available at my disposal. thanks though.
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- Sold my beloved J in April 2010 -
Ahh..same here except the machinery part of it since I moved away...well I already graduated and work'n for money now.....much better that way.
Does anybody know where to find a rebuild kit for the F-body rotors? I looked online at some auto parts stores but obvioulsly not at the right ones yet cause I cant find much of anything. CTS: where did you find the parts? ~IIRC you said earlier that you rebuilt your before putting them on, where did you get your parts?
rotors or calipers? i got a seal rebuild kit (inner seal and dust boot) from my local auto parts store. they sell the pistons also i believe.
also, im still wondering on the truth behind the fbody calipers, because 63mm is mighty big, compared to the fact that the cobra calipers are only dual 40 mm's.
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- Sold my beloved J in April 2010 -
I'm looking for a rebuild kit for the calipers. I'll just call locally and see if they got them cause sometime there websites are hit and miss.
I can tell you that these calipers bores are larger than 2 inches(just at a glance)...I've never caliper'd them, but there big. I'll caliper mine when I get them out and let you know exactly but 63mm isn't a number that I'd call BS on when trying to remember how big they are.
The 63 number is something I read, but it can't be right. I can't get my caliper all the way in there without taking the whole damn thing a part. I'll rip into it Tuesday for a definitive answer. I can tell you for certain that it's somewhere between 45 and 50mm.
I got my kits from GM. I thought they were like $9 per side. Came with seals and boots.
u know, now that i think about it more, the 11" malibu setup might not be a bad setup at all. ive been doing a lot of calculations and it might actually give you a pretty substantial increase in braking ability while not having a super soft pedal problem. how are the pedal feels in you guys' who are using the fbody calipers?
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- Sold my beloved J in April 2010 -
