Sorry Cody I havent checked back on this post!
Just did the c-arm, endlinks, and D bushings this Friday.
Autoxed on them earlier today and along with my new 14" Azenis I must say wow!
I ended up ordering the endlinks and D bushings from JC Whitney. I went with the Prothane since all the other poly is from them and it just must be happier together!
I used the "B" style bracket 15/16" (24mm) swaybar D bushings and they do fit in the stock mounts perfectly!
What sucks is having to drop the subframe to get at the left side one. Major PITA but worth the effort. I didnt drop mine all the way just took out all the bolts except the ones in the wheel wells. I loosened them up but left them in.
The endlinks were easy as pie and Im not even gonna talk about the c-arms.
swaybar D bushing "B" style bracket
Prothane part # 19-1133
JCW SKU: ZX859781U
endlink bushings ¾" × 1" OD set of 8
Prothane part # 19-429
JCW SKU# ZX888039N
My 2k3 Chevy |
Nebraska Region SCCA
DUDE! THANKS!
i was debating emailing you.... but i figured someone would see it sooner or later
Quote:
The endlinks were easy as pie and Im not even gonna talk about the c-arms.
i have the c arm bushings from prothane and by the looks of steve cote's post
http://www.j-body.org/forums/read.php?f=46&i=94922&t=94922 they don't look all that horrible to do... although not easy either
THANKS TONS!
gc's, koni's, new front mounts, c-arm bushings, and GM front strut tower bar coming this week
i need to order the d bushings, endlink bushings, addco rear sway, and a rear strut tower bar and i'll be all set in the suspension category
thanks again
hey do you happen to have torque specs for any of the bolts in the suspension???
thanks
None of the bolts were super lock down tight. I dont know the torque specs but I just did as good as a ½ inch drive can get them with good force. I autoxed today and nothing came apart so I dunno if that tells you anything!
We had no trouble removing or installing the old bushings in the c-arms due to the fact my good partner in automobile molestation Roberts father has an arbor press in his garage..
The part missing from his post are that getting the round "O" on the c-arms free from the spot them mount in the car isnt easy. It helps to know you can slide them twoard the outside of the car to ease removal. Also cursing at them and having at least 2 people watch you seems to help.
Now it not being easy to get them out with rubber bushings in think of trying to install them with larger, stiffer poly bushings in.
My 2k3 Chevy |
Nebraska Region SCCA
Just a few more bits of information on things I came across in my install and having to adjust some things for anyone who may undertake this in the future.
Put the swaybar D bushings in so the opening faces the front of the car! I still need to flip mine the other way.
Realize when you are pressing the round bushing in the c-arm that there is a smooth side and a sharp side. Press it in from the smooth side or this will happen.
When installing the a-arms if you put the part with the bushing pictured above towards the center of the car from where it goes then hit the ball joint end of a-arm with a hammer toward the car. This will naturally seat the other busing and help get the big one closer to where it needs to be. When it gets close to fit a flat screwdriver into the center shank of the big bushing you can use a screwdriver to line it up the rest of the way.
When tightening the endlink use a jack to raise the c-arm and then tighten them down. This will help you to avoid leaving a gap between the new endlink bushings and the swaybar which can result in strange steering input when going over bumps.
These are just the problems I had and I am posting them in the hopes someone else can benefit from my mistakes.
Click my sig for Cardomain site |
Nebraska Region SCCA
sorry to bring this back fromthe dead i think but wat is the part number for the energy suspension sway bar end links for the stock sway bar? thanks if you can also just pm me the part number or something thanks!
just for those searching the forum first....
I first bought the energy suspension 9.8117R kit but it was too long to replace the stock set. so I took it back to Autozone and bought the energy suspension 9.8120R performance sway bar complete end link set to replace my stock OEM front sway bar end links & bolt. my bolts were rusted and had to cut the plastic spacer to get the bolt out.
most of the stock bolts, bushings, spacers
passenger side bolt
driver side bolt
finished product
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my carDomain updated 9/2/07 I've got premium. Yes I do. I've got premium. How 'bout you?
Looks good. I need to do this when I swap over to winter wheels.
Dan Trump
2004 Cavalier LS Sport - Victory Red
Note: The spacing between the bushings is 3/4". I bought 9.8120 and it should be 9.8122 from Summit. I have to cut the sleeves
Just an FYI.
Dan Trump
2004 Cavalier LS Sport - Victory Red
s1lver_N1p wrote:just for those searching the forum first....
I first bought the energy suspension 9.8117R kit but it was too long to replace the stock set. so I took it back to Autozone and bought the energy suspension 9.8120R performance sway bar complete end link set to replace my stock OEM front sway bar end links & bolt. my bolts were rusted and had to cut the plastic spacer to get the bolt out.
most of the stock bolts, bushings, spacers
passenger side bolt
driver side bolt
finished product
Talk about bringing an old post back from the dead.
So is the 9.8120R the proper part number for say a 00 GT w/FE2 front suspension that needs endlinks? Also can someone explain what "4door5gears" was saying above. Is 9.8120 the right part number or 9.8122?
Regards
NeoJuice wrote:s1lver_N1p wrote:just for those searching the forum first....
I first bought the energy suspension 9.8117R kit but it was too long to replace the stock set. so I took it back to Autozone and bought the energy suspension 9.8120R performance sway bar complete end link set to replace my stock OEM front sway bar end links & bolt. my bolts were rusted and had to cut the plastic spacer to get the bolt out.
Talk about bringing an old post back from the dead.
So is the 9.8120R the proper part number for say a 00 GT w/FE2 front suspension that needs endlinks? Also can someone explain what "4door5gears" was saying above. Is 9.8120 the right part number or 9.8122?
Regards
if you go to parts store 9.8120R is. don't see them on Summit anymore.
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my carDomain updated 3/6/07 Boosted at B-day!
s1lver_N1p
Thanks for the reply to the post. Good to see you reply to your own post. Thanks ill pick them up tomorrow.
NeoJuice wrote:s1lver_N1p
Thanks for the reply to the post. Good to see you reply to your own post. Thanks ill pick them up tomorrow.
yw. you wanted confirmation and i restated it.
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my carDomain updated 3/6/07 Boosted at B-day!
s1lver_N1p (S-m62) wrote:NeoJuice wrote:s1lver_N1p
Thanks for the reply to the post. Good to see you reply to your own post. Thanks ill pick them up tomorrow.
yw. you wanted confirmation and i restated it.
Do you know the part number for the sway bar "D" bushings from energy suspension? I have FE2 suspension which I think is the 22mm front sway bar. Do you have to drop the front cross member in order to replace the "D" bushings?
Regards,
NeoJuice wrote:s1lver_N1p (S-m62) wrote:NeoJuice wrote:s1lver_N1p
Thanks for the reply to the post. Good to see you reply to your own post. Thanks ill pick them up tomorrow.
yw. you wanted confirmation and i restated it.
Do you know the part number for the sway bar "D" bushings from energy suspension? I have FE2 suspension which I think is the 22mm front sway bar. Do you have to drop the front cross member in order to replace the "D" bushings?
Regards,
that i do not. didn't replace mine. yes you will need to drop the cross member for easier access.
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my carDomain updated 3/6/07 Boosted at B-day!
Yup, you do.
The subframe will need to be dropped just enough to get access to the bolts that hold in the D bushings.
It's not like you've got to completely remove the subframe but do loosen it enough to be able to get easier access to the D bushings.
Good luck.
Misnblu.com
Newbie member since 1999
Thank you Dave and JBO! 
I picked up my endlinks today. The middle sleeve looks way to long then the stock spacer. I took a look in my wheel well at the parts store. Are you sure it's not the 9.8122 which is the 1" sleeve instead of the 1 5/8" sleeve? I'm going to take pictures tonight to show you. I have FE2 suspension. Here is your picture.
It looks like with the 9.8120 (1-5/8") that it would be to long and push the sway bar up way to high. I'll post pics later on tonight. I'll also measure the stock sleeve. Unless I'm wrong.
s1lver_N1p
please verify.
I took back the 9.8120 and traded them in for the 9.8122 which is the 1" kit. That should be the right one by the measurement of the spacer in the picture above.
NeoJuice wrote:I took back the 9.8120 and traded them in for the 9.8122 which is the 1" kit. That should be the right one by the measurement of the spacer in the picture above.
You get this installed yet?
11 speaker JL Audio stereo setup for sale:
http://www.j-body.org/classifieds/audio/52021/
really good info here. I am gonna check it out this weekend and hopefully get it together
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Primer Counts as Custom Paint Right?
BTW: This is my Sig.
