ok i believe my fire needs front pads replaced.....
what i might be interested in doing is upgrading my discs in the front as well as new pads.
1. is this possible while staying with stock caliper?
2.what is the level of difficult on j bodys swapping out rotors ect ect?
3.what would be a not-so-expensive set-up with new pads and rotors if its possible and to stay out fo spending a lot of money???
Most of this is covered in maintenance. What is "a log of money" to you? I wouldn't think of changing pads and rotors for less than $100 for fairly basic oem replacements. Anything cheaper than that and you're getting into crap territory. A good set of slotted rotors and ceramic pads can be had for $200+S&H though.
i will spend 200-300 total weather i do it myself or have it instlaled.
i just bought brembo rotors and hawk pads. 200$ shipped. ill have pics soon of the install....i just installed them a few days ago but dont have the pics on my computer yet.
EASIEST mod ive done to my car. all you need is a screwdriver and alan wrench. the old rotors simply fall off when you get the 2 caliper bolts unscrewed.
and the performance is SO worth it......it stops on a dime, and the slotted rotors look so sexy!
- Cameron (CaliforniaCavalier)
-
www.csc-motorsports.com (my new NOR-CAL car club site!)
omg ok good then thats probably what ill do now can ig et a link to where you went with to buy them from? and this is front only correct?
Correct. Rears are drum (unless you do the Neon rear disc swap
)
ok so the install sounds fairly east as i have done brakes before, i am just a bit more worried on an almost new car.
where should i buy them possibly gravana?
also calicavy you said you had pictures of install or finished product? can i see those asap before i order probably on thursday...?
also should i go with baer, brembo, or powerslot?
also if brembo should i go with slotted or cross-drilled?
baers front rotors are both slotted and drilled.....
i dont know what the difference is can anybody help me out here befor ei buy everything?
straight from the sticky, it is very helpful
sticky wrote:#1 Slotted or Crossdrilled rotors.
These rotors both accomplish the same basic things. Contrary to popular belief, slots and drill holes DO NOT help cool the rotor. They simply allow the brakes to operate properly at a much higher temperature. When pads get hot, the resins and binders that hold the friction material together with do 2 things, either melt or "gas". If they melt, this will act as a lubricant and the brakes won't work, if they gas, the gas will tend to float the pad off the surface of the rotor, so all your pedal pressure goes into compressing this gas rather than forcing the pads against the rotor. Slotted and Crossdrilled rotors allow an escape route for these things. Crossdrilled rotors are mainly beneficial for high end racing where there is a lot of concern for the reduction of unsprung weight. Aside from that and the cosmetic aspect (face it...they look good) there is no reason to go with crossdrilled rotors. Slotted rotor maintain about 95% of the friction surface that the original rotor had while crossdrilling removes much more material leaving only about 70-80% of the original friction surface. A crossdrilled rotor also does not have holes passing evenly over the entire pad as do most slotted rotors, leading to uneven pad and rotor wear because the pad is contacting the rotor for a full 360 degrees at certain points and much less than that at others. Crossdrilled rotors generally wear out pads faster than slotted rotors as well. Another problem with crossdrilled rotors is that they sometimes develop stress cracks around the holes. When the drilling takes place, stress risers are formed because the "web" of the casting is disturbed. Slotted rotors do not have this problem....especially if the slots do not extend past the outer edge of the friction surface. Slotted rotors are better for the street.....Crossdrilled for the track if you are changing rotors after every race and they are not repeatedly heat cycled, which will most likely promote cracking.
my advice: DONT GET DRILLED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
get only slotted or blanks. drilled crack too easy. yeah they look damn sexy, but its not worth having them crack and then you are out 200$.
get some brembos with hawk pads from gravana...
- Cameron (CaliforniaCavalier)
-
www.csc-motorsports.com (my new NOR-CAL car club site!)
^Drilled crack easier
when abused compared to slotted and standard. If you're not beating on your brakes you can get just about anything you want. That Gravana deal is a good one.
Here is a really old pic of my Pro slot slotted rotors nad hawk pads.
They are well over a year old now, and still running strong.
I got mine from Gravana.
ok cool i plan on NOT abusing my brakes at all i dont even go to the track or autocross, if i had more money(i am now a broke college kid as of saturday) then i woudl auto-x, but it will jsut be DD, so i guess i will go with that deal from gravana............
now install, how does everyone recommend it just get a manuel for my car? how long/hard is it? i ahve done them before in shop class but never on a nearly new car.
also will a car parts store have a book on my 2005 model year car?
