1) Brembo
slotted rotors with hawk pads and WILWOOD Hi-Temp brake fluid.
2) Baer
slotted and drilled rotors with hawk pads and WILWOOD Hi-Temp brake fluid.
ive been told not to buy drilled rotors, even if they are brembo or baer, because they can crack even if its a daily driver. i just like the look of the slotted/drilled behind the wheel a lot more then just slotted.
i would rather have a nice good looking rotor, but if drilled really are not safe ill just stick with the slotted brembos.
looking at the pics, baer seems to have nicer looking rotors, they seem clean looking and a lot better then the boring old slotted brembos.
tell me opinions!
- Cameron (CaliforniaCavalier)
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www.csc-motorsports.com (my new NOR-CAL car club site!)
Question-
Why do you need high temp brake fluid? Any DOT 3/4 fluid will do the job just fine, and you will never see temps high enough to warrant anything more than DOT 4. Its a big waste of money to use something like that unless you really need it, because you need to continue using it for the life of the brake system, since its not compatible with any other fluid. Also, its not street legal (because it doesn't meet DOT regs, which aren't based on temp alone, but the actual fluid composition).
I'm not a fan of drilled rotors, for the cracking issue, they aren't a good choice for any street car. Slotted rotors cause faster pad wear (and the Hawk HPS pads wear pretty quick as it is), and on a J body, both are kind of pointless, since the extra cooling capacity really isn't needed. Its a trade off of price, requirement, and (in your case) appearance. The price is higher for both slotted and drilled rotors. They aren't really needed, since a good flat rotor will do exactly the same thing. But, they do look cool.
Do you ever race (drag and/or road/autocross) your car? If so, I would go with the slotted ones if you can't have/don't want plain ones. They'll be more than adequate. If you don't race it (except for the occasional off-ramp excitement), you should stick with a plain rotor and you have the same stopping power. If you're only concerned about the appearance (or don't drive the car a whole lot), and not about replacing the rotors more often, go ahead and shell out the cash for the drilled and slotted. It all comes down to what you do with the car.
Regardless of what rotors you decide on, I don't recommend the high temp fluid, not even DOT 5.1. Stick with a DOT 3/4.
the wilwood brake fluid is the same price as regular dot 3/4 fluids.
i was told it would last longer then regluar dot 3/4 fluids.
and ill probably stick with the regular slotted brembo rotors then. are there any other recommended pads since the hawk pads wear so fast?
and by "wear fast", what does that mean.....like mileage-wise? im only putting about 10k miles a year on my car....i cant imagine pads going THAT fast, especially since i use my clutch to slow most of the time.
thanks for your input james. its apperciated.
- Cameron (CaliforniaCavalier)
-
www.csc-motorsports.com (my new NOR-CAL car club site!)
check out the ebc slotted/dimpled rotors. i've had them on with the hawk hps pads for 10,000 miles so far with no problems.
my last set of hawk pads (hps) lasted me about 26,000 miles, but that was with some really crappy drilled rotors.
i know a lot of people with the ebc/hawk hps combo (not all on j-bodies) that usually last anywhere from 25,000-40,000 miles without problem.
Drilled will only crack if abused. For a DD they'd be fine.
For high-requirement applications, they would need to be checked regularly.
C.T.S wrote:Drilled will only crack if abused. For a DD they'd be fine.
For high-requirement applications, they would need to be checked regularly.
ok so what do i do? im hearing 2 diffrent things.....that for a DD drilled would be fine, then im hearing that any drilled will crack regardless of how i drive..
im confused!!!!
- Cameron (CaliforniaCavalier)
-
www.csc-motorsports.com (my new NOR-CAL car club site!)
g/fs cav has drilled , and with her heavy foot they are still like new
she went through the stock brakes in less than 10,000 miles
her cav has 64,000 now , fronts were only done once , got drilled rotors and a good set of pads , from car customs
the cracking is more of a thing of the past , rotor materials have improved alot , and so have the pads , cracking is still possible , but is less likely to happen , unless under SERIOUS abuse
would baer be a good brand of drilled rotors to buy?
also, what pads do you think would be best with drilled to avoid cracking?
thanks for the posts guys! keep em comming
- Cameron (CaliforniaCavalier)
-
www.csc-motorsports.com (my new NOR-CAL car club site!)
I got the Baer decela rotors from aaron at turbotechracing.com. great guy to deal with and great prices. it was around 200 for the rotors and Hawk Pads. I dont think the hawk pads wear fast at all. I have a LOT of miles left on mine and they have a lot of life left on them, id say i have atleast 5 k on them since i swapped them to my new car, and atleast 10K from my other car. And i autoX and beat the piss out of them. So i highly reccomend them. and mine dont have any cracks at all and i would say my brakes get abused quite a bit. PM me and i can get you more info on them.
Again about the whole cracking issue. Any rotor will crack if abuse enough. Slotting lowers this tolerance a little. Drilling holes lowers it more. As long as you don't exceed the tolerance you'll be fine. Also, there is no set number for what the tolerance is, every brand is different, and different technologies make a difference as well. Chamfered holes lower the tolerance less, and a rounded chamfer is better than a square chamfer. Fluted holes are better yet. And holes that are cast into the rotor in the first place (like Porsche rotors) are basically the "best", although I don't know of any available for Js.
As for brands, any of the name-brands are good. Baer, Brembo, Powerslot, etc. Prices, shop around.
i think im going to go with the baer decela rotors that gravana has for 200$ with hawk pads.
ive been reading around and shouldnt have to worry about cracking with the application im using them for.
- Cameron (CaliforniaCavalier)
-
www.csc-motorsports.com (my new NOR-CAL car club site!)
relax, you'll be fine.
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- Sold my beloved J in April 2010 -
CaliforniaCavalier wrote:i think im going to go with the baer decela rotors that gravana has for 200$ with hawk pads.
ive been reading around and shouldnt have to worry about cracking with the application im using them for.
its a great choice , youll be very happy and have many years of good use
should i bother using the wilwood high temp brake fluid, or just regluar dot3 fluid?
- Cameron (CaliforniaCavalier)
-
www.csc-motorsports.com (my new NOR-CAL car club site!)
Valvoline DOT4 is the best bang for the buck IMHO.
im just using regular dot 3 i think , what ever the big bottle at vato zone is , lol
ive got the wilwood 12.2" front , and baer copy 12" rear brakes , havent had any problems
g/fs cav is still on the stock fluid
i run Enroble drilled/sloted on both my coupe and my vert. i run Bendix Ti pads on the coupe and some severe duty on the vert. the coupe rotors have been on for over 80,000K's now and they are worn as can be expected but no cracks. the Bendix Ti pads have each lasted me 40,000K a set. the ones in the vert will be changed very soon as they are crap. going to try out the Hawke pads.
