Ok so here's the problem. For about the last month, I have noticed a slight shudder in my passenger rear section of the car. I assumed it was because of maybe a slight bend in my rim as I know I have a slight bend. But two nights ago, I switched drum covers (brand new ones). The next morning when I started to drive, I noticed a repetitive squeal (almost as if something was rubbing each time the wheel turned. It got ntoticeably higher pitched when I started to apply the brakes. Also when I came to a comeplete stop and then released the brakes, I hear a slight ping/pop almost like a spring snapping. The problem is I have inspected the drum brake twice today, and everything is in place (I actually switched out the springs today and the squealing still persisted afterwards). Does anyone have any ideas? This drives me crazy. Could it be a mounting bolt out of place? Maybe the drum cover just isn't perfectly round? Thanks for the help!
ShiftyCav wrote:thats probably the dumbest thing i have ever heard. you should take that serpentine belt and wrap it around your neck.
check out the hub/bearing assembly. I haven't heard them of them squealing, but since you've checked the drums a bunch, that would be my next guess.
Desert Tuners
“When you come across a big kettle of crazy, it’s best not to stir it.”
How's the brake cylinder look back there? Rusty at all? Could be damaged and sticking. Just a guess.
hmm I'll have to check that. I'm gonna head out to the garage and check in the morning. thanks so far guys.
ShiftyCav wrote:thats probably the dumbest thing i have ever heard. you should take that serpentine belt and wrap it around your neck.
Jace Evo2,
I actually have that exact same problem. I went so far as to change my rotors and brake pads, the squealing for me only happens in reverse going down a hill (my driveway). That squeal was/is in the rear.
Once I start driving, my brakes squeal ONLY when the car comes to a complete stop...Sounds like the front. So I changed rotors/pads...No difference. I am just as stumped as you. What year is your car? Mine is an '05. I too, checked the drums/lines and everything seems fine. I dont know what the deal is.....
- John
2005 Cavalier LS
"Sow your oats on Friday night, Saturday pray for crop failure"
Well this is the update. I went to NTB to get my car aligned (I needed one badly anyways) and we took a look at the rear right side. When we spun the wheel while freely in the air, there was a point of rubbing or contact. It turns out that my shoe adjustment was not all the way adjusted (although I swear I did that manually). So I went out to the car and slammed the ebrake 30 times. The squealing stopped while driving, but is still there when braking. Im going to try and adjust a little more. If that does nothing, Im going to replace the shoes and springs one more time. The thing that pisses me off is that these are 3 month old shoes, and they sound like the indicator already. Any other ideas guys?
ShiftyCav wrote:thats probably the dumbest thing i have ever heard. you should take that serpentine belt and wrap it around your neck.
Ok well I have another question now. It's been two days since I got my brakes adjusted, and now the squealing has stopped while driving, but they still squeal when I apply the brakes. My neighbor (who worked for advanced for nearly 30 years) suggested I take the drum covers off, and use steel wool on the pads for a little roughing up. He was suggesting that the shoes may have glazed over. Does anyone have any experience in this area? Thanks!
ShiftyCav wrote:thats probably the dumbest thing i have ever heard. you should take that serpentine belt and wrap it around your neck.
Modern shoes don't have the glazing problems of the past. Also why modern drums still work when submerged (not as well as dry, but still work).
Have you guys hosed the whole thing down with brake cleaner yet? That's always my first step with GM rear drum sounds. Also the stock rear shoes do not have an "indicator" that makes a squealing sound.
i had the same problem and i know this is basically pointless because my car was/still is under warranty and all i did was take it in to a local dealer and they fixed it but the noise came back a week later.
so i went back in and they "fixed" it again. for another week.
finally i went back and demanded all new brakes and they hooked me up free of charge.
that was over 3 months ago. havent heard the sound yet.
I took my rear drum cover off and looked at the brake shoes. The top & bottom 1/3 of the shoe lining looked normal aka rough, but the center 1/3 was shiny and smooth. Does this equal glazing? The other side (driver's side) was completely normal as was the other half of the passenger side. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.
ShiftyCav wrote:thats probably the dumbest thing i have ever heard. you should take that serpentine belt and wrap it around your neck.
C.T.S.- Yes, I sprayed the entire assembly down. I also sanded the smooth part of my rear passenger side brake shoe (pad closest to the front) and it still had a squeal when I braked. I really don't want to have to buy a new rear brake setup, but if I do have to, does anyone have any ideas on the possible cost before GM rapes me? Or any other ideas?
Thanks a ton!
ShiftyCav wrote:thats probably the dumbest thing i have ever heard. you should take that serpentine belt and wrap it around your neck.
When you take the drum off look at the contact point inside (where the pads grip the drum), is there any strange wear pattern?
**side note** to self adjust the rear brakes, go in reverse at a moderate speed and press firmly (almost to the point of locking them up), do this several times, you can't over adjust the rear drums this way.
Also, when you manually adjusted your brakes, what was the rotation travel of the wheel in the air?
I have had a rule of thumb for close to 18 years now...
1/2 - 3/4 of a free wheel turn will wear the shoes in and operate better.
You stated you replaced the drums with brand new ones...
Was there cross hatching inside of the drum?
if there wasn't maybe that is the problem, the center part of the drum could've been completely smooth, and actually causing the pads to glaze, if this is the case try the steel wool on the drum(not the shoes), and go in a diagnal direction both ways to make a cross hatch pattern.
I had some what of the same problem with my 2003 with only about 15 miles on it.
Hope this helps you out.
Kross wrote:When you take the drum off look at the contact point inside (where the pads grip the drum), is there any strange wear pattern?
**side note** to self adjust the rear brakes, go in reverse at a moderate speed and press firmly (almost to the point of locking them up), do this several times, you can't over adjust the rear drums this way.
Also, when you manually adjusted your brakes, what was the rotation travel of the wheel in the air?
I have had a rule of thumb for close to 18 years now...
1/2 - 3/4 of a free wheel turn will wear the shoes in and operate better.
You stated you replaced the drums with brand new ones...
Was there cross hatching inside of the drum?
if there wasn't maybe that is the problem, the center part of the drum could've been completely smooth, and actually causing the pads to glaze, if this is the case try the steel wool on the drum(not the shoes), and go in a diagnal direction both ways to make a cross hatch pattern.
I had some what of the same problem with my 2003 with only about 15 miles on it.
Hope this helps you out.
I will definately try that tomorrow. I haven't done the reverse part yet, but unfortunately just put an order out for new adjustor parts on the brakes lol. F'n awesome. But I will try that tomorrow. Also, about the cross hatching....do you meant that the drum covers should already have a hatching engraved on them, like across diagonally or with horizontally? I'm assuming this is to better catch the pads. Either way I will try what you suggested, and get back to everyone tomorrow! Thanks again!
ShiftyCav wrote:thats probably the dumbest thing i have ever heard. you should take that serpentine belt and wrap it around your neck.
Diagonally from where the shoes ride in the drum, not in the same direction as the shoes travel.
Doing that insures that you will not get a directional wear pattern and end up with less braking friction.
