I know this has been debated X2519516205120945645213620951620465151 times and pics have been asked for it justa s many times, however im in need of assistance on these springs once again.
Now i just recently got the sport lines, however im not really sure if i want to put these on and sell them to get the prokit. The sportlines have a weird drop and i would like something thats a bit more even.
My question to the JBO is this which would you prefer
a. sportlines
b. pro-kit
also if you could get a good side view of the rim ( IF YOU CAN ) with the sport lines, and the pro kit. For those of you who hlep me make this decision i thank you in advance, as well for those taking their time in reading this as well.
I'm running the Pro kit, easy choice. They're progressive where as the Sportlines aren't, the roads where I live right now really suck, wanted something a little more forgiving. no pics right now however sry!
thanks i found one with 18's and the sportlines i think i will keep them but its going to be low up front me thinks
umm, the sprotlines are progressive. i have them, the only reason that the drop seems werd is because our cars have a positive rake, the rear of the car is higher than the front. even after the drop of the sportlines my car is still slightly higher in the rear.
Clicky Thats my buddys car with sportlines. I wouldnt change mine for the world, but make sure that you get the proper struts to go with them!
Ill make a sig someday
Depends, do want to lower it for looks or for handling?
2012 HD VRSCF
2010 Ford Explorer
2006 Ford Ranger
2004 Chevy Cavalier
I love my pro-kit, very nice handling with a mild drop.
well its an every day driver i take it to the track once and a while, but im mainly for show
I have the sportlines on my car, a daily driver also......I have absolutely no complaints on the way they handle.....
also like said above with the stock ride height being higher in the rear so the drop does/should even the ride height......I know in a recent thread made someone was asking what the measurement was from the ground to the highest point of the wheel wells and it was just under 25" the EXACT same front and back, that is the reason for the different drops front and rear, to even the ride height......first pic with stock rims was taken the day of the install(i think) and the one with the 17's is almost a year later.......
I have one true love in my life...And my girlfriend sits next to me in it
i have the pros, they are a lil stiff but they dont bounce and im on stock struts
Love my Pro kit with AGX's, cannot go wrong in my opinion.
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
I use Eibach Pro and KYB AGX on my Laser, and they're great. I'm putting Sportlines on my Cavalier because other than Tein coilovers, they're the best option I think there is.
Opfer benotigt. Keine Erfahrung notwendig.
Victims needed. No experience necessary.
I *heart* my sportlines
I problem i notice while Spring shopping was that Even with a pro-kit the car is not that low, and there is still a noticeible wheel gap. And since you said show, And the odd track day, Sportlines are best ..What I don't understand is how people think the pro-kits are better for handling? the lower the center of gravity the less body roll, better handling..
The spring rate has a big effect. The pro kit has a stiffer spring rate, which is why I run them on my Laser. For drag racing I get a better launch with them than I did with sport lines.
Opfer benotigt. Keine Erfahrung notwendig.
Victims needed. No experience necessary.
J,wRight wrote:I love my sportlines
I problem i notice while Spring shopping was that Even with a pro-kit the car is not that low, and there is still a noticeible wheel gap. And since you said show, And the odd track day, Sportlines are best ..What I don't understand is how people think the pro-kits are better for handling? the lower the center of gravity the less body roll, better handling..
its called over lowering your car, spring to not control body roll by themselves. if you want to redice body roll, get sway bars, also called anti-sway bars. you have to have something to absorbe the weight transfer of teh car when your moving if you struts are at or near their limit then you have nowhere to go but riding on the bump stops. if that were so good then everyone would be welding in steel bars from the strut towers the the steering knuckles.
Quote:
Almost everybody does it. Lowering your car is paramount to improving it's handling. The key, however, is to lower it just enough to gaub the benefits it creates without suffering the potential drawback.
The aftermarket does little to help us in this regard. Nearly every company that makes suspension components, even very reputable ones, spews out thousands of sets of lowering springs that are both too low and too soft for optimal handling. Why do they do this? Are the engineers at these companies incompetent? Is it a conspiracy to make our cars suck? No, the enthusiast is to blame.
*The majority of enthusiasts want a low ride height to fill the ugly gap in their stock wheel wells. They also won't accept a ride that, for the most part, is a lot harsher than stock. Macho or not, most enthusiasts don't drive hard enough or well enough to realize that their cars actually handle worse than stock, mistaking reduced roll for better handling.
The original Nissan Sentra SE-R is a typical example of a car with suspension geometry that doesn't allow lowering more than an inch. But the problem isn't limited to the SE-R.
The first problem with lowering the SE-R is that it only has about 2 inches of compression travel at the stock ride height in the front suspension. Let's say you lower the car the typical 1.5 inches. That leaves a half inch of travel before you hit the bump stops. Your typical aftermarket lowering spring might only up the spring rate a paltry 20 percent or so, which isn't nearly enough to keep the car off the bump stops with only a half-inch of travel.
*The result is poor ride quality and sub-standard handling. As the car leans in a corner, the suspension will settle onto the bump stop. As the bump stop compresses, the spring rate ramps up infinitely, which causes massive weight transfer and relentless understeer.
But it gets better. On the SE-R, the lower control arms are positioned so they begin to point upward as the car is lowered. Now when the car rolls in a corner, the outside tire goes into positive camber. And, if you've been reading this series, you know that is just about the least effective way to corner.
*Believe it or not, it gets worse. With the lower control arms pointing upward, the instant center of gravity starts to drop rapidly and the roll couple greatly increases. The bigger roll couple causes more weight transfer to the outside wheels and more body roll.
*Finally, the steering tie rods start to point upward more radically, because they are shorter than the lower control arm and positioned out of place in the lowered chassis. This causes toe-out when the wheels deflect, making the steering twitchy and the car feel unstable.
The SE-R exhibits just about every problem overlowering can cause and when combined, those problems will ruin its handling. Fortuneately, SE-R guys tend to be pretty hardcore and they have taken the issue of making functional drop-in lowering springs into their own hands. This isn't the case with every car. Even worse, this situation is not unique to the Sentra. There are lowering springs available that are capable of causing these or similar problems on just about any car.
What can you do to work with the drawbacks of overlowering or avoid it completely?
Make sure your car doesn't use the bump stops under maximum cornering load. The easy way to detect this problem is with a zip-tie telltale on the shock shaft. If the zip-tie is pushed up flush or into the bump stop after a hard turn, then your car is using the bump stops every time you corner hard.
If you have a MacPherson strut suspension, ( 3rd gen J-bodys do)be especially aware of short travel and suspension geometry problems. MacPherson strut cars usually have a very small lowering window. It is typically best to run these cars at close to the stock ride height unless you significantly modify many other components.
the point is lower isn't always better.
to quote Event "just down half arse it"
It all depends on what you want to do. I am not doing any more racing as of now and if I did, I would go back to DSM methinks or at least a little faster version of cavy. Sportlines should be fine for just driving around. Why not a set of Tein Stech? Good compromise in ride height between the two and a fraction of the cost of EIbach. I've seen sets of s-techs go for 150 dollars shipped on ebay. Tein is a great company and you would get a high quality spring with less invested than eibach.
I'll have a sig someday..............
Well i had my springs installed yesterday and man
I LOVE IT
if you were ever considering sportlines go for it i will take some pics tomarrow I mean the sportlines with the ls sport kit looks great. I mean it evens it out, now all i need is to get some koni's for this setup. Big difference and it looks great to boot.
Thank you JBO and to those who have replied here.
