Yes. I am pretty sure the hole in the Spindle in which the caliper bolt goes is stripped. Has anyone had this problem ? Other than replacing the spindle what else can I try ?
I figured it is the spindle portion that is stripped as I tried two different caliper pins and both will not tighten up..
Are you sure the pin is going into the hole? I have seen people think they're screwing it in when they actualy are not. If it's really bad then you'll need to replace the knuckle.
if it is striped , it can be drilled and heli-coiled
CTS - yeah.. i have made that mistake when I first started doing my own brakes.. it is defianately going in... just not getting tight...
97 Cavie - you think it will work ? i will have to try it...
yes it will work
you just have to find the right size heli-coil
allthough , if your local junk/wrecking yard has alot of j's you might be able to find another splindle cheap
i think i paid around 20.00 last time i got some
but its more work , and might require a alignment
I don't know if I'd heli-coil 1/2 of the bolts that hold the brakes on..... Just a though. I don't know how strong they are, not that I doubt their strenght, I'm just skeptical.
The cost should be cheap (<$35, and $20 is more likely). Definately work, especially if you don't have power/air tools. Definately will need an alignment, no way around it here.
I am gonna pick up a new Caliper Bolt today and see if it helps. If it does not then the Heli Coil is next as I do not want to take out the spindle if I do not have too. I will update this thread periodically until the problem is fixed for those who may be following it.
Thanks very much you two !
Ken
I have had the same problem.
It's almost like the metal on those spindles
is just too soft for those bolts.
Have one bolt holding on by only a few threads.
If you decide on the Heli-coil let me know what size
your using.
Thanks
You would think that GM would try and plan to
have the bolt strip before the damned spindle
I don't question the strength of the Helicoil, just someone installing them into the knuckle.
hi everyone..
i did not pick up a new caliper bolt as mentioned prior because i have confirmed the bolt hole on the caliper is stripped.. to the point where i can push the bolt in without screwing it at all.. the other one is starting to show the same signs as I cannot take it out now.. it just keeps turning and turnin but it is grabbing the threads unike the top one, however it will not tighten all the way now..so i have 2 messed up caliper pin mountings.
is this a frequent occurance on our cars...??
i feel that the best solution is to replace the spindle (aka knuckle)... i suspect buying a used one may land me in the situation again soon if it is not up to par with a new one..cost will decide maybe..
so..who has removed a spindle.. i know what is involved..but I do not know how to rate the severity of it.. i feel comfortable doing brakes, oil changes, tune ups, suspension, etc so I figured I could do this... any thoughts on removing the spindle as a solution ?
correction..
"bolt hole on the caliper "
should read
bolt hole on the spindle..
but you probably all figured that out..
I done plenty of brakes on Js and never had any knuckles strip out.
Knuckle is a single part, spindle is the knuckle with hub assembly. Knee is the same with strut and upper mount. Whole suspension is the same as Knee with control arm and ball joint. Just to straighten the terms out.
What's involved:
1. Jack up, use jack stands for safety. Take wheel off.
2. Put a screwdriver through the caliper into the rotor (not necessary if you have a impact wrench). Take the 28mm nut off the axle.
3. Take brake caliper off, hang with wire, not the hose. Take rotor off.
4. Remove the steering tie rod nut. Pop the tie rod out (use a 2# sledge or a puller, do not use a light hammer).
5. Take the 3 bolts holding the hub off (T50 torx IIRC). Take the hub out. This may require a large hammer/sledge. Be gentle!
6. Take the two strut-to-knuckle bolts out (undo the nuts, then hit bolts with 2# sledge).
7. Take the cotter pin off the ball joint. Remove the nut holding the ball joint to the knuckle.
8. Remove the knuckle.
9. Put new knuckle in place.
10. Put the nut on the ball joint again. Don't tighten right now.
11. Put the botls and nuts back in the strut. 130ft-lbs torque. Torque wrenches really are essential when working on a car. Probably how you stripped those bolt holes in the first place.
12. Put the hub back in place (assuming the knuckle came without one). Put the bolts back in it. Tighten them to 70 ft-lbs.
13. Put the axle nut back on. Tighten it to 180 ft-lbs.
14. Put a jack under the ball joint. Lift up on it untill it is fully seated (1-3" usually). Tighten the nut down to 40ft-lbs. Put a new cotter pin back in.
15. Put the tie rod back in place. Nut on, tighten to 40ft-lbs.
16. Put the rotor back on. Put the caliper back on, tighten pins to 36 ft-lbs, never more.
17. Put the wheel back on (lug nuts are 100ft-lbs of course). Jack car back down.
18. Get an alignment, it will be messed up.
Not all that bad. Someone who's good/familiar at it could do it in about 20 minutes.
they make oversized bolts (the bolt is the same size the threads are larger) with self tapping threads to correct this problem..... I have been using these on one side on my cav for about 3 yrs with out a problem. I think I got them at napa
Wow! I thought I would of finished this job a long time ago seeing how my caliper was just hanging there.. but... i suspect it really cannot go anywhere so I just drove it around. breaking was fine i just noticed a rattle over bumpy roads..
I eventually picked up a used spindle and swapped it out last weekend. I also redid my 95-99 mount swap. Bearings where in upside down so consequently I would get the familiar bearing binding noise. I just did that a year ago so I figured something did not go together right and a perfect time to redo it since the alignment was gonna be out due to the spindle replacement. Tie rod gone again so did that as well.
Of course during the alignment the tech pointed out that my control arm bushings are starting to show signs of wear. But that will have to wait now. I suspect I can get another year out of them and will need another alignment by then anyhow due to our roads.
The tech said worn or bad bushings cause excessive outer edge (Toe ?) wear. Any truth to that ?
Overall. I was surprised at how easy it was. I did all this plus an oil change in just over 5 hours. No breaks and by myself. I do not have any power tools but I do have a good breaker bar and it worked great on the Strut Nuts and Axle nut no problem. I do have a battery powered Impact Gun but it bums out around 100 ft lbs. I love it though. It takes lug nuts off no problem with a full battery and makes easy removal of the breaker bar'd nuts too..
if anyone has any questions I will be checking back over the next couple days...
Hi I have the same problem with my 97 Sunfire. Just stripped the thread on the steering knuckle where the caliper pin screws on to.
Does any one know what size Heli-coil is required, it looks like and M12 1,5 but I am not sure, does anyone know?
I have ordered a caliper pin with oversize thread from NAPA. In the meantime I have cut off approx 1/4 inch from the caliper sleeve to shorten it enough so that the caliper pin can reach good thread in the Steering Knuckle.
Thanks
For your help
Ghis Ottawa Canada
Back from beyond the grave here....
To answer your question you should NOT cut ANYTHING off your caliper sleeve.....they are that thickness for a reason. Wait until the oversized bolt comes in.
Well if you ever just wanted to save time I would just get the spindel and A-arm together and swap them out faster without having to do a ball joint.
