ok i have been searching on google for the past couple days trying to find out what the proper head bolt torque values are for the 1997 2.2L engines ?


does anyone know what these values FOR SURE ?

i ahve the head off the engine now and it looks good

no crack that i can see at all

it was burning water in the fourth cylinder, and exhaust gas was coming up in the rad fluid fill tank

head gasket is cracked on number 4 hole seal

and it was overheating very rapidly within minutes of being started, from dead cold even


going ot have the head checked for warpage soon

would need to know the max allowable acceptable warpage on this head too

also the proper gasket surface cleaning/surfacing procedure for these heads and blocks ?

ive read that scotch/brite pads is a no-no on these

so what do you use then ??

pic of what i accomplished this morning:



note the perfectly clean number 4 piston top






this one has a little over 200k on it and was running strong and well

can still even see crosshatch patterns on the cylinder walls

pistons nice and tight in the holes still


hopefully the bearings and cam and such are so nice too haha


thanks for anything

-96 cavalier 2.2 auto 143k miles

Always use new head bolts. This motor uses torque-to-yield head bolts, whuich means they must streatch a predetermined amount ot seal properly.

Torquing the head bolts is a two step process.

Step 1:
Short bolts-43 Ft-lbs
Long bolts-46 Ft-lbs
(Note: Lubricate the bolt threads and the underside of the heads with a moly based assembly lube for consistant torque readings. The bolt holes are blind tapped, so you don't need any sealer, just the assembly lube. Work up to the torque in three equal steps, for even torque across the head.)

Step 2:
Tighten an additional 90-degrees

Follow the numbered sequence:

8...4...1...5...9
...0...0...0...0...< each cylinder
7...3...2...6...10

exactly. new head bolts are required. and madjack is dead on with the procedure.


oh... and the second generation stopped in 1994... so this is in the wrong forum.


Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Thursday, April 24, 2008 6:55 PM


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[this one has a little over 200k on it and was running strong and well

can still even see crosshatch patterns on the cylinder walls]


My ,93 2.2, with over 200k looked the exactly the same. It began to miss on cylinders 2 and 3 at idle.

I took the head to a machine shop where they discovered it was cracked, an exchange head has made it run better than ever.

Now at 259,000 k.

Assembled it exactly as Madjack states

Alont

ok thanks guys

i only needed to know the torque values for these, because every source i could find listed always stated something different, and it was ticking me off


yes i know VERY well that these bolts on this particular application are TTY


i didnt ask if they were or not

i already knew!

2nd gen

3rd gen

no idea

no where can i find what years each gen were, on this forum

maybe the admins should list the years with the forum titles ?

that would help lots

i work on all vehicles for ppl,. plus my own, i dont have time to research and keep up with the years of gens of every make and model of vehicle produced in this world

im sure there are others like me out there as well

if it was listed plainly for all to see then you wouldnt see the "wrong" posts in forums, such as what i did


so fix it ?

or dont say anything at all when it happens




thanks!!

-96 cavalier 2.2 auto 143k miles

You suffered the typical head gasket failure on the #4 end. Common with the LN2.

James Cahill wrote:You suffered the typical head gasket failure on the #4 end. Common with the LN2.

good deal

i put it back together with the fel pro gaskey set yesterday and today and it runs like brand new and VERY strong and smooth and awesome and its staying righton 195 all the time

so it looks like its fixed

saved another one from the car shredder
now i have a daily driver that is great on gas

and i only have 100 bucks in it

car was free

thanks to all for help and info here

R

-96 cavalier 2.2 auto 143k miles