after about 6 months of planning and one test car, i finaly got my rear disks on. i used the small daytona disks, had them machined for the j-body hub, and it made it a true bolt on deal.
the machined backing plate. 92 beretta parking brake cables were used as they are 1" longer per side and are needed, unless you want to modify the cable mounting points on the axle.
the brake hoses. i used teflon core stainless braided line with the apropriate -3 ends. i used 10mm x 1.0 bevel flare to -3 adaptors on the body side. others say to use 3/8x24 inverted flare, however they do not work as out cars use metric fittings. also shown is the 7/16 to -3 banjo bolt adaptors for the calipers.
the end result. the calipers are mounted low on the back because of the way the parking brake cable exits the backing plate. there is no real downside to this, the only thing is it may not be astheticly pleasing. as for performance, it stops a little better, but not a huge amount of difference. the biggest difference is no brake fade, and very easy to service. a master cylender with a larger bore and an adjustable proportioning valve would work wonders with this setup.
Looks real good.
I think I have a list here of master cylinder options. I've had the Daytona rotors in a box for years, but never have gotten around to actually installing them. I saved a Caddy El Dorado m/cyl for my swap, believe it's from a 92 model. ID is listed as 1" rather than J car 7/8." Various models of LeSabre also have 1" bore from 91 - 93, and there's even a listing for a 91 - 92 w/o ABS which has a 1 1/8" dia bore. Man, if you want a pedal that hardly travels before the brakes are applied, that would be it.
-->Slow
Looks awesome, so you say a 92 beretta e brake cable is the way to go, i've had mine half assed for a while using stock cables just so its working as a back up, the guy at the parts store told me they were the same number when i asked about berettas and other small FWD GM
early beretta was the same as a j-body, but i found 92 beretta cables were about 1" longer. i did have to weld on a 3" long bolt on to the passenger side cable to make it reach the adjuster.
Cool.
The H body MCs are 1 1/8, but only two port.
thats quite alright, the 86 and older z24 had a 2 port master cyl and a seperate prop valve. i plan on eventualy using an ssbc adjustable prop valve/distro block anyways. its the perfect setup with 2 front ports, 1 rear and the adjustment built right in, and even a port for a gauge if desired.
Thats similar to my setup, but I used tees instead of a block.
