I am not getting any spark at the plugs from my 2.0 Sunbird and I am wondering if the igniton module is the culpret. I have 12v to the module via the 4 pin plug but it does not get to the spark plugs to fire. I think it is probably this module but I didnt know if maybe the crank position sensor could kill the spark too? James? Mr. Efficiency? Whatcha think?
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Your ignition module is your best bet......maybe even distributor or cap
its a 94, it has dis, no distributor.
start with the crank position sensor, im guessing thats the problem. if its doesnt fix the problem, then replace the coil module.
What would make you lean more towards thinking it is the crank sensor? I dont know why it was my first impression to jump to the conclusion of the ignition module being bad.
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I had the same problem with my 92 and it was the crank sensor
I've got a 94 2.0 and I thought my igniton module/coil pack had gone bad, but it turned out that wasn't it. I would probably check the crank sensor first because when I priced the module/coil it was about 400 bucks for the cheapest one, and that was at the employee discount rate. If you really think it's the module I'd get one from a junkyard to test it first. Did you make sure the plugs were grounded when you checked for spark?
You can't outrun the radio.
Hi, Mike.
Between the module and the crank sensor, the sensor is the most likely culprit. In many years of fixing cars, I've seen far more crank sensor failures on these engines than module failures. But there's no guarantee. On of the easiest ways to check the crank sensor if you have the tools is with an ohmmeter. If the resistance between the two terminals is 0 or infinite then you have a faulty sensor. I've also seen the sensor body crack inside the engine block. This is usually easy to see once the sensor is pulled out for visual inspection. The problem is that the sensor usually gets pretty well stuck inside the block after many years of collecting road grime and junk. If you decide to pull the sensor out be careful not to break it off.
Checking the module is a little more tricky. Few garages have an ignition module tester. Most shops would check the sensor first, and if that was good check power and ground at the large 2 wire connector on the module, then usually replace the module. Testing takes more time than guessing, unfortunately. If you're checking for spark be sure to check both coils. It's possible that only one is bad which could lead you into spending extra $$. I've bought used Delco modules from the junkyard for $15 - $30 and had better luck than using new aftermarket modules. Maybe I just have bad luck?
Good luck.
-->Slow
Ok, this is going to sound very retarded so please excuse this...
I bought the car two weeks ago as a tite loan repo. They said it didnt run so I got it cheeaapp. Anyways. While waiting for the crank sensor to come in I went ahead and gutted the interior to look for notorious 2nd gen leaks (which it does). I was laying looking under the dash and up tucked away above the fuse box is two loose ends of wires. Tracing them to the fuse box I see that this is the connection to the fuse labeled ECM.
I twisted them together and the thing starts.
I am very happy that I had not replaced the ignition module or the sensor. It is all to seldom that things work to be that simple.
So...whose up for finding that firewall leak?
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I wonder if the person who owned it before you cut them to get back at the place that repoed it.
You can't outrun the radio.
