The previous owner pulled the digital cluster out and replaced it with an analog one due to preference. Unfortunately it looks like it was a hack job...
In reviewing the article here:
http://www.v6z24.com/jbodyforum/crashdummys-analog-to-digial-dash-swap-t116055.html I had high hopes this was going to be fairly easy.
I've got a full replacement dashboard which is not cracked at all, but is charcoal/black not dark blue. I also have the matching color console. The replacement dash has the horizontal connector, so I have 2 total connectors for the IC rewire.
At this point would it be better to just go ahead with the full dash swap, wiring up and installing the cluster in the replacement dash before reassembly?
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Has the harness itself been cut and connected aside from the internal cuts on the plastic.I am kind of just wiped out tonight before I make any real suggestions.I do realize that the harness probably did have some wiring swapped in so spots and that depends on how lack luster that was done.Pop some pics of any of the re routes and how it was done.I will say this just once as it is my modo.Keep your old classic 1st gen stock and if any changes are made make so it can be changed back with out damage!Changes as yours can in my opinion hurt the value and or trueness of the cars nostalgia.My cars only change is the radio and clearly speakers and wiring.I will say I did my speaker wiring to the Letter and ran it correct from the rear to the front in the channels and I did have to remove the rear speaker hangers as they were too small for my 6x9 boston acoustics which have big magnets.I kept the hangers of course.Last check is not too many item specific parts are not made anymore especially interior and even some body pieces.
Ron Love wrote:...I will say this just once as it is my modo.Keep your old classic 1st gen stock and if any changes are made make so it can be changed back with out damage!Changes as yours can in my opinion hurt the value and or trueness of the cars nostalgia...
Best I could do on pics... I'm actually trying to return the car to 1987... The analog IC is from a 1989. The replacement dash appears to be Z24 Type 10, just a different color than original.
Well I must say the connections look clean and not a major mess.You have 2 options really.Keep the original dash and just fix the electrical back to stock and be done or change the dash which is not color matching but could be sprayed to make color correct with some time.I will say if the oem dash is not too bad and you can handle any mild blemishes go simple and keep your oem dash and do not worry about the drama you do not see behind the cluster.If it were Me I would keep the oem dash if the dash overall is fine aside from some cosmetics that even I would just so go with it.This way If you need to do a full dash swap you have a Good back up in the nest down the line.IT is your decision I just offered my two cents as a true stock oem guy overall.Finding a good dash today for 1st gens is thin and save what you can as replacements are non existent.
Ok, so I'm going to salvage the connector from the spare dash. What's the trick to releasing those pins? I discovered the flap on each side of the connector, but so far only managed to release one of the contacts... I don't want to destroy this as I only have the one. If it's this difficult to do where I have plenty of room I can only imagine what a pain it will be to do on the car...
Thanks in advance
Figured out the pin extraction - required additional light and a smaller probe - headlamps what a brilliant idea!
Well, i've restored the wiring harnesses to their original (I hope) configuration. Nothing appeared to short with power applied, so connected digital dash.
Dimmer: OK
Brakes indicator: OK
Service Engine Soon indicator: OK
Check Gauges indicator: OK
RPM indicator: works but reading high - moves as expected with RPM, but reads around 4000 at idle
No digital readouts actually working, but I have not applied any contact cleaner yet.
Turn indicators: INOP
Bright indicator: INOP
I'm guessing I've got a ground issue at a minimum, in C2 wiring side. Had to make some educated guesses...
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By OK, I mean the indicators respond appropriately to conditions.
I'm guessing the cluster is bad at this point, as I'm getting proper readings from the wiring harness.
Lots of oxidation on the "circuit board" traces. It cleaned off but the traces are coming off the carrier film and I suspect more corrosion internally
Awww that sucks.
Old electronics eh, unfortunately time does horrors to old circuitry, be it in digital clusters or old video games really.
I have changed a few of these digi clusters out of mine already, unfortunately they go bad, my last one wouldn't turn on till the car had run for like 15 min then it would work fine but the next day same thing, would have to wait 15 or so minutes for it to start flickering and eventually turn on and function. Clean the contacts that are above the speedo part ( there is another harness plug there) that helped mine to start working when it wouldn't. Good luck!
