Well once again, my transmission cooling hoses are leaking. I really have no idea why this keeps happening. I even double clamped both ends. It's never the rubber that's the problem, it just seems to want to push out over the top of the hose.
This is making me think that maybe at some point in the life of this car, the lines were reversed and I have hot going to cold. I never take the car on long trips, only the 25 minute ride to/from work for the most part (15 miles each way), so maybe it usually is unaffected, but when I go longer, it might be a problem.
Could someone with the 1.8 take a picture of the hoses near the radiator where the cooling lines are so I can see if mine are going to the right tubes?
thank you!
Wayne one question.Is your radiator the original part? That said it could be the flaring for the hoses is not sealing in the metal and it is seeping by and blow by over the hose.I see you said you double up the clamps but,there are 3 tips for leaking hoses and I am holding my cards for now.Please take at least one or two pics and post them so I can see the hose feeding into the radiator before.I can assure you my tips will go above and beyond and fix the leak.And no it is not a additive.
Will do.
Just in case you're back here before I am, I'm thinking pics won't show you what you might be looking for, or they will and I really just don't get what you're gonna see.
The radiator has two metal lines coming out of it with a nipple (maybe what you mean by a flaring), and my hose is slipped on above this area of the metal. The transmission has two metal lines coming out, also with the nipple; and again, my hose is slipped on above this area of the metal.
I found one problem, but to tell you that story, I have to tell you this one first:
Bought the car, after a bit, noticed this leak with the hoses. Said, wow, I can do that and replaced them. Found out, wow, I can't do that since they started leaking again. My mechanic put I don't know how many clamps on it and it didn't leak for a few years.
Two summers ago, when I did all that work on the car, the hoses were leaking again, so I replaced them again. I don't think they are swapped as I suggested in my first post because the hoses don't cross each other, they are running parallel. Less than 5000 miles later, they are leaking again, and when I started the car and let it idle today, after about 10 minutes, the leaking began and yeah, it was from the one section of hose where I thought it was. The fluid doesn't care that I have it double clamped.
OK, to the current cause: my hoses are the wrong size? This being the case, what size hose should I be using? I have a 3/8" on there now.
Ron, I didn't forget the pics, I'm just having a hard time getting them from phone to computer to host site because of my wonderful Windows 8 problem.
Wayne,
Are the double clamps mounted one over and one under? They should be opposite each other. I do not know what size hose it is ,but it should take some effort to get it to slide on the metal line or it WILL leak if too loose.
wayne, on my 2.0 skyhawk those trany lines are preformed crimped hoses. i think they should be the same for your car. i would bet at some time some one just rigged up some fuel line with hose clamps on yours.
each hose is a seperate part that you will have to buy. if you want to stay with what you have i would use the clamps like the one pictured one thr right. they give a more uniform fit around the hose you also have to have the right inside diameter hose. 5/16 or 8mm is my guess.
i would just buy the correct hoses though as they build pressure and i dont think you will get away from them leaking with the set-up you have now
Dorman makes the preformed hoses like John's picture shows available locally here at Autozone.
I think orlen's pics shows what your set up is like.Honestly I would go with the Preformed hoses that are sealed and just be done with it!!! I could list some simple techniques to reduce or prevent the leaks however just replacing the hose's with the pre molded crimped style would be more time and cost effective.On a side note I prefer to use a constant torque clamp sold at napa or most heavy duty truck stores (like fleet pride or truck pro) keep in mind these clamps are expensive but,guess what they do NOT break or cause leaks.The constant torque clamp is smooth on the inside so it doe's NOT cut,or bite into the rubber unlike the cheap azz crap breeze style clamps.I do not know how small the sizes go in general like say 5/16 -5/32 and then up to 3/8,1/2 etc for a idea.Kind of whooped but heck trucking has it days.
Sorry can't help much on this - no cooling lines on my manual.
Philip - great signature pic.
Orlen - engine looks pretty darn clean!
Rock Auto has them for less than 8.00 each. I ordered a set
Thanks Paul, took me a while to figure out how to do it properly. Should have asked you...
Orlen--great pics, shows exactly what I needed to see. Yeah, my hoses aren't crossed, so I figured they were correct, but seeing is believing--that's a good thing to know.
John--you just solved the problem! When I bought the car I knew whoever owned it for most of its life was an old guy, and it looked like the grandkids kept grandpa's car running. They were very sloppy with their work and would rig things when they could. I've fixed all their messes except this one because I didn't know any better.
So is there a special tool necessary to put those on, or do I just slip them on and squeeze the clamping?
wayne, they are called transmission oil cooler lines and they are manufactured as one piece. they are already crimped together. the only tool i would recomend would be a flare wrench and to soak the fittings with liquid wrench for a few days before trying to loosen them from the radiator and tranny. advance auto part #s 624-032-lower and 624-036-upper. by the way orlen, yours are jury rigged too.but someone must have done a better job as yours dont seem to be leaking.
OK, got those new lines on and no more leaking--thank you John for telling me the name of the part (much better than thingys as I would call them; thingys brings up nothing on NAPA's website).
But now I've got real problems.
When this happened with the leaking lines, after the car was good and warmed up from driving around, as I would come to a stop it would start to buck a little and stall when I came to a stop. I would place it in neutral and restart, then as soon as I would shift to drive, it would stall. I figured this was due to low fluid.
Now that the lines are on and there isn't any leakage, the same thing happened!
Car ran great for a while, then after it was well warmed up, maybe a good 20 minutes into my drive, it did it again. I can put the car in neutral or park and no problem, but then it stalled again when put in drive.
I have no ideas what could cause this.
Wayne Schiff wrote:OK, got those new lines on and no more leaking--thank you John for telling me the name of the part (much better than thingys as I would call them; thingys brings up nothing on NAPA's website).
But now I've got real problems.
When this happened with the leaking lines, after the car was good and warmed up from driving around, as I would come to a stop it would start to buck a little and stall when I came to a stop. I would place it in neutral and restart, then as soon as I would shift to drive, it would stall. I figured this was due to low fluid.
Now that the lines are on and there isn't any leakage, the same thing happened!
Car ran great for a while, then after it was well warmed up, maybe a good 20 minutes into my drive, it did it again. I can put the car in neutral or park and no problem, but then it stalled again when put in drive.
I have no ideas what could cause this.
Sounds to me like either your torque convertor clutch is sticking or something equally as crappy occurring.
Bad torque converter lockup switch. It's on the front of the trans. Unplug it and drive, if problem is gone you can drive without it until you get one.
You can see it in Orlen's pics above. White plastic connector with nothing plugged in.
I bet you're right!
I was describing it to somebody as if the car was a manual transmission and the driver wasn't pushing the clutch pedal when coming to a stop.
Any idea why it only seems to happen after the car is warmed up instead of while cold?
You have to drive into high gear and above 35mph and it lock in one time. After that it doesn't release when you come to a stop.
You can prove it by letting it stop and raise the hood and unplug. When you put it gear it will not die if the switch is the culprit. I had it happen to me. After a tow bill I realized what it was.
I easily get above 35 within minutes of leaving my house. Generally around 50-60 in under 5 minutes.
Before, I was out for over 30 minutes of driving, much of it at 60, but it didn't happen until after I was driving around for a while. Came to several stops after being above 60 and it didn't happen; then the problem began.
This last time, the trip consisted of about 10 miles, most of it above 40, plenty of time above 50. Stopped for gas, then started the car again, ran through car wash in neutral. Back on the road, going probably 35 max in miles 1-4. Miles 4-6 above 50. Mile 6-7 around 45. Come to red light and it happened. Put car in neutral, started car, placed in drive and it stalled. The only way I could keep it running is if I started the car and timed it just right with hitting the gas and putting the car in drive.
I still believe you the torque converter having something to do with this as the stall is not like a out of fuel or air type of gasping stall, it is a hard type of stall. I'm just trying to understand why it takes a while for it to happen instead of happening when the car is first started.
I believe it is sticking after it warms up. They go bad in different ways. I would unplug it and go for a drive. It will not lock the converter that way and hurts nothing. See if you can have a successful drive that way. If same result then it is something else. All the symptoms say TCC switch.
sounds good, I will give it a go. thank you!
The only way to get moving when that darn TCC freezes is to rev the hell out of the engine and drop in drive. I know it sounds like a horrible suggestion but if you can launch the car before the engine stalls out you can get underway. If the engine stalls before the car comes to a halt try to pull off the asphalt an on some gravel. The gravel will help with tire spin and allow you to get under way. I had the TCC lock up one time on the Pontiac ( I'm sure the reason it was disconnected when I got it) and I resorted to this trick to get home. I disconnected the plug and it has ran just fine ever since. The plate on the drivers side of the transaxle has to be removed to replace the sticky solenoid and most folks just run it as a typical 3 speed w/o the converter lockup. The 3 speeds seem ok with it , but I have read the later 4 speed autos on the 3rd gen can give trouble if driven a long time with the TCC plug disconnected.
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