Sunbirds on the road! with no boost... - First Generation Forum
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So today i got the sunbird legal and on the road. took it for a test drive and no boost=|
I already checked my boost lines and intercooler couplers to make sure everythings tight
and where it should be. What else could it be? If the turbos bad wouldn't
i know? Before it sat the car ran fine and was making boost from what im told
but that is also coming from someone that knew little about the car to begin with.
I was also told the last time it wasn't producing boost the mechanic at master tech auto
took a air compressor and blew the turbo out and a bunch of "stuff" came out then
it was fine. wtf?
Any ideas/suggestions?
Is the exhaust manifold red?
If so, check your plastic inake tube for leaks between the airbox and turbo. There should not be anything in the turbo if it has been run with an air filter. I would highly suspect of the story you were told.
Nope, manifolds normal and i just checked the turbo its spinning free, no shaft play or anything.
i just put the stock pipe back on instead of the FMIC and still nothing=|
I guess if i can't figure it out im gonna have to bring it back to master tech.
damn this sucks!
So a little update,
Removed downpipe to inspect turbo and it's clean as a whistle, not a spec or carbon build up so the turbos not the problem.
I was told to check for a clogged cat and it's brand new, the entire exhaust system is..
A few questions, what electronically would make the car not build boost but run fine, I've been driving it the past few days with not a single issue
except for the check engine light popping on and off on the interstate a couple times but no more then 30 seconds at a time.
I did notice a bit of stuttering on acceleration at low RPM's but I'm assuming that's due to no boost.
I'd really like to fix this myself so i don't have to bring it to someone to tell me it was a sensor and i owe them 400 bucks for it.
I also learned that the cruise control is controlled by vacuum, now i haven't worked with this type of setup but we found a boost line
on top of the motor just chillin and i searched all over to find what it plugged into but everything to do with the boost lines is hooked up
and in the right place as far as i can see.
Why not start by checking the DTC's?
- Your not-so-local, untrained, uncertified, backyard mechanic. But my @!#$ runs
To be honest, I'm not sure which two ports to cross with the paper clip.. Might sound noobish but I've never done it before. I watched the videos how but theres three
spots i see, two next to eachother and one on the other side.
13 is o2 sensor circuit. Are you sure that wasn't a code 42?
I'm sure. I sat there and watched it go through the codes 3 times to make sure. Would a stuck open EGR valve cause boost leak effects?
I'm getting no boost and it's not even creeping into boost, ZERO boost. I also have a slightly rough idle but no stalling just bouncing between 1500
and 1300 rpms
Zakk-
What year was your car again? My 84 does not have an EGR (or code in the manual).
1988 and it has one, its on the intake manifold and when i first got the car
the boost line was disconnected to it so i kinda figured/ saw that code coming.
Yep, that is why my 84 Manual does not have that code...
So you reattached teh vacuum line for the EGR. Was that before or after you checked your codes?
Zakk-
Any difference in cold vs warm performance? I would definately see the EGR as an issue. Any chance you can get a cable and download datamaster by TTS to do some real-time monitoring? You could start throwing parts at it but that gets expensive...
yes throwing parts at it gets real !!!!!! expensive, but once its fixed you have a almost new car
Yeah, the only time i had the line off the egr was when i was first inspected the car because of rough idle. Detached it and no change but since then the cars idle is better and it's running good
besides building no boost. I called and talked with master tech and there gonna give it a look at tomorrow. I'm home now and the drive down to the garage is about 70 miles both ways so it's
not like i can just run over and check it out.
any luck with your car ?
not really=/ I went out today and tried everything. Rechecked my lines and followed them from end to end. I did the smoke trick, blow smoke into the vacuum lines and see where it comes out.
Took the piping from the intercooler off the intake manifold and the smoke was lingering in there. Not sure if that means anything.
My last attempt is to check the boost solenoid. I'm gonna disconnect it and try a manual boost controller and see what happens.
It's my last idea at what could be wrong, i cleaned the egr valve up, cleared my codes and checked it tonight and no code yet, just the oxygen sensor code.
The shop I'm bringing it to has you fill out what you want done to the car, problems, symtoms ect. to try and make the fix as fast as possible.
I'm filling it out tomorrow and besides a vacuum leak test what should i really have them check out?
So i went out today in a desperate attempt to build boost and no luck once again...
Tried the manual boost controller, no difference.
Checked my MAF and it's working fine.
No new codes.
Sunbird know it alls please help out =/
Zakk-
You put the manual boost controller inline between the boost solenoid and the wastegate? If so, it is still relying on a signal from the solenoid. The MBC changes the way the boost hits. I am leaning towards your boost solenoid being the problem. Do you have a cable so you can connect to the ALDL? If you download TTS Datamaster, you can see exactly what is going on here - what the computer is attempting to build to as well as what you are actaully getting. It will also show your wastegate duty cycle - how much is open. It could be not building because the wastegate is stuck open - or being commanded open for some reason. Have you played around with the wastegate spring at all?
i would say wastgate also on mine ( 1985 ) its negative vacuum that opens it , but if stuck open no boost, unhook line to actuator bring up RPMs and you should have air blowing out, if not try moving the rod in towards the air can ( diaphragm )
Update... a sad one...
Well, I just got home from master tech and some good news and bad news.
Good news is master tech auto has a handful of great people and I'll always go to them.
The car runs so much better and no idle issues, bogging out or stuttering like before.
I only spent $139 for a smoke test, compression test and a couple vacuum lines. Plus a look around of the car for any other signs of wear and tear.
Now the bad news....
They brought me into the shop and the turbo is seized.. Now i found this weird because not just last week i was in there spinning the turbo by hand and using an air compressor
to spin it. We ended up disconnecting the waste gate and leaving it open.
The head gasket is leaking... No drips off the engine block but it's coming down the sides of the block on the front and right side.
We decided leave it how it is because if I do fix the turbo I'm gonna blow that gasket to shreds or at least make it worse.
We priced out parts and labor for the fix and it came to $776 with labor for them to do it, thats without the new turbo.
Now my question is where can I find a turbo that drops right into place for that one? I'd like a refurbished one because this is going to be an expensive fix =/
The mechanic that was working on my car also told me "make sure if you do this you realize your dropping a bit over a grand into a $200 car"
At first I really thought about it and was considering just saying screw it and drive it how it is until it needs serious repair because it goes just fine.
But then I was at a gas station picking my girlfriend up from work, looked over and saw some older man eye balling my car up and down, doing the walk around.
So i go out and I'm sitting in my car as he runs up to my window with a huge smile on his face and asks "would you be willing to sell this car, where the hell did you find this,
know where anymore are?!" starts going off about it and we ended up talking for about an hour and after that I just kinda realized. Every penny put into this car will be worth
It because for one, this isn't just the run of the mill civic and it's more then just a $200 car. It's my $200 sunbird GT that i've already put plenty of time, blood, sweat and beers into
and it's gonna be fixed.
Moral of the story, all it takes is a little recognition from a fellow enthusiest and a smile to change everything.
Sucks to hear you got to spend some money, but you could always buy an eBay Chinese knock-off turbo. Their Quality Control is questionable, but the majority of the turbo's are perfectly functional, especially on a budget.
Just search for T25/T28 turbo and you should be able to find a bunch for under $250. They are all pretty much the same from what I've read.
I don't know a damn thing about fitment or whatever for the SOHC turbo engines, but that's a stepping point for someone wanting to save some money and maybe upgrade in performance.
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1995 Corsica and a bunch of trucks too...
Being forced to spend that money will suck no matter what you drive; but here the payoff is driving around something NOBODY else has.
I used to love the head-turns when I drove my 76 Trans Am, now people look at my SkyHawk and wonder "what the HELL is that thing?"
Can't wait to get the body work done this year and have it painted so when they wonder what it is I'm driving, they'll be drooling as well!
Regarding the $1000 spent on a $200 car Zakk, I'd like to mention that it is a far diferent thing to have to put that kind of money into a car that you are shelling out $200 a month or easily more in a car payment on top of everything.
Take this in steps. You can repair the head gasket soon and later work on the turbo when the money can be spent. Meanwhile you can still get around town and do most of the things your Pontiac normally does.
Keep on working at it and enjoy the journey!! If everything worked perfectly , wouldn'y you be so bored with it?
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just a ? is the turbo seized or the waste gate, and can you get a rebuild kit for it ? sorry that was 2 ?s
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