Whats up people? Wow cant even tell you the last time i was on this. For those of you that dont know me i was the one that started this thread. LOONNNNG time ago. So i see theres new people. Welcome. Chris, Whit, Kyle, Will, Rob whats up guys?
Well i really hope this club can get it together and make this work. I remember when we use to all hang out. Some of the best times ive had in Virginia.
Soon ill be going to cali.
Maybe one day ill meet up with you guys. Ill bring the Xtreme Colorado or the Camaro.
Later on guys.
PS. Told you i would come one Rob
2007 Chevy Xtreme Colorado Crewcab.
1995 Z28 Conv. Camaro
wow lol i was wondering wwat ever happened to the OP.
Took honda side skirts and made them fit on the cavi!
Jason: good to see you back and hey look... you are number one on page 80 too =P
Chris (white4door): to save you the headache, i am not going to go in to my vast knowledge of car audio, and try to keep this simple.
The fuse end of the red wire attaches to the battery and runs back to the amp. if its 4 gauge or bigger and doesnt look like it will fit in the amp (e.g. the wire is too thick) run it to a distribution block, and run 8 gauge to the amp...
the black or brown wire connects to the ground on the amp. take this wire to the closest possible spot and drill a screw through the metal of your car to ground it. (use sandpaper to remove paint)
the blue wire runs from the remote terminal on the amp back to the blue and white wire on the radio.... No blue and white... then run it to the blue wire. if neither wire works, the remote in your radio is shorted... splice it in to the red wire, but know that the amp will come on, on ignition. (this is assuming you have an aftermarket radio)...
the RCAs (left right speaker style cables) run from the back of the radio to the amp. If you have an advanced head unit: Use Non-Fading for sub-woofers, Rear for low-mid speakres, and front for high speakers (such as tweeters)... do not run all together... its a pick one type option...
finally... the GAIN on the amp is not a volume switch... tune it between 1/2 and 3/4s ... distortion is what blows speakers, so make sure there is no distortion...
if you are running sub-woofers, the amp should be set to LPF... other speakers use HPF... if you have a X-over or crossover control, you want about 1/4 for bass, 3/4 for other speakers
heres a thought to keep in mind as well... Its not all about how much power the amp puts to the speakers.... its all about how much power the speakers attempt to draw out of the amp. It is better to overpower speakers than under power. With an overpower, you can turn the gain down, but under-power leads to distortion... The BEST case is to match up the RMS wattage on both the amp and the speakers... usually RMS wattage is about 1/2 of the wattage on the amp... so your 1200 watt amp is about 600 RMS (unless you have an expensive class D amp and 0 gauge wire....)
im sure im forgetting something.. but this a basic how to for car audio... and this is the short of it...
dude this wiring kit has sum extra @!#$ ive never seen b4? if i were to meet you up at the shop on friday or sat could u help me install this thing?
Took honda side skirts and made them fit on the cavi!
i dunno if i can this weekend... i'm backed up with school and work... we'll see though
party tonight in va bch ... get at me if you want to come!!
Going to "the spot"
10 PM
Freedom Wash
Holland Road and Independence Blvd
Virginia Beach
Whit called me earlier and said he's coming....
Who else?????
bump
Was that a... Cav??
it used to be anyway.......
bumo almost went to page 2 lol
hjey be prepared guys im putting my 2000 honda civic feelz body kit on today!!!!!
Took honda side skirts and made them fit on the cavi!
wats up guys not much important to say here but more of just whats been goN on. Ive started to remove everything out of the vert for the ecotec swap but i recently ran into a slight problem the getreg & isuzu trannys have different mounting points so that sets me back another 6 months or so on a swap that i already didn't expect to finish til Jan/Feb. 09 but it will be worth it, i hope. Also I am scheduled to attend UTI starting in Sept. so i got a pretty good feeling that will set things back a bit too, June '09 ma bey
. I light of all of these setbacks and the massive amounts of cash i will b spending on this car I have decided to build the motor while its out of the car and use the all new Cobalt SS/TC LSD Trans instead of the standard F23. All that needs to be done is a clutch & flywheel swap & the tranny mounts have to b welded in place which has to be done anyway. with all that said guys I'm in for a long ride & if anybody wants to help i'll take it also after this is finally done if anyone else wants to do the swap i will b more than willing to assist seeing as hopefully i'll b a UTI graduate(oooh) as well as a body who has actually performed the swap. I've been keepN up with Will recently I go to Best Buy quite a bit now, lol & Mush is out he bought a Scion TC, Brother or no brother I had 2 do it. He'll b with us N sprit tho, lol. He says he's looking to get a box Caprice Classic (Donk) to roll with us again well c. Also I know this probably isn't anyone here cup of tea but I'm lookN to get rid of my '96 Cadillac SLS in hopes of buying an '98+ Cadillac STS so if u kno anyone looking send them this way. contact info again guys cuz i cant seem to save anyone elses. Chris W. give me a call man also i pm'd u. Later.
Stikman29@yahoo.com
7573104186
166*131500*18
It beats a Honda!
trent: i could have told you about the trannie mounts.... there is a nice write up on how and where to weld in the new brackets in the transmission forum... what was wrong with the 2.3 again (didnt you say the crank shaft was shot?) i may need some 2.3 parts if you are looking to part out whats left of the 2.3
Bump
Took honda side skirts and made them fit on the cavi!
lol
Took honda side skirts and made them fit on the cavi!
At Ryde or Die Car Show, i took Best Domestic Sport Compact.
The track sucked (Coastal Plains Dragway)... every one said they ran about a second slower than they usually do...
Here are my best two slips
R/T: .7950
60 Ft: 2.4228
320 Ft: 6.8740
1/8 ET: 10.5760
1/8 MPH: 66.17
1/4 ET: 16.4899
1/4 MPH: 80.52
R/T: 1.2439
60 Ft: 2.4571
330 Ft: 6.8500
1/8 ET: 10.4692
1/8 MPH: 68.35
1/4 ET: 16.3041
1/4 MPH: 81.79
I talked to almost every driver than ran their cars and we all agreed final times were off by about .8 - 1.0 second .... so if thats true my best time would be around 15.5 - 15.3, which is where i expected to be. My motor hasn't been to happy lately. The oil pan gasket needs to be replaced. the oil pump is sluggish, i would like to swap to the 2.3 HO but that would involve yanking the motor and getting a machine shop involved. but i may go with the Melling made for the 2.4. --- I also have a valve seal leak in Cyl 4, and the motor isnt too happy about that... it doesnt always idle right.
I ran 102 Octane gas (Wa Wa's 92 + 10 from treatment). I also made it all the way to Jacksonville Carolina and back on one tank of gas. (hit the gas light as soon as i hit Indian River Road) (416 Miles)
I spun tires really bad on the track as well... i chirped second, third, and fourth... i think something had to be on the track that was making it slick
wow whooo hoo go kyle ...
Was that a... Cav??
it used to be anyway.......
thanks rob.... i cant wait to go to Dinwiddy in august to get my times on a better track....
BUMP:
GO TO JBO CHAT.... you know you're bored and want to kill some time!!!
---
7 more posts until this thread hits 2000 posts
bump this fine moring
Took honda side skirts and made them fit on the cavi!
hey Guys well i couldnt hold it in any longer. I got wonderful news today I gat approved for financing on an 2008 Chevrolet Cobalt SS/TC so...yea they're just trying to locate one for me now in Rally Yellow or Black as a second choice. I really hope the dealership isnt bull@!#$ting me. But assuming all goes well not only will i b the first Delta body in the club i'll hopefully b one of the first to own the new SS. Guys im so @!#$N excited I cant wait to get this car.
Kyle u can have the entire motor once i pull it out for $100 and the tranny for $50 if u so choose and i'll part the entire package (wiring, axles, shifter, computer, etc) bassically anything besides the shell & interior for $300.
It beats a Honda!
i'd only need the motor... the trans has different mounts, and everything that goes with the trans is incompatible with mine
you should post the rest up here in mideast as a part out sale...
======================================
what is wrong with your block???
the best quad build is the 2.3 LO bottom end, bored over with the 2.4 crank shaft, then stroked to 2.7 litre displacement
so if its just your crank shaft thats bad, it's looking good to be built in to a super motor... i'll be coming after your cobalt... with your own motor .. hahahaha
hey kyle i heard brians car got messed up?
Took honda side skirts and made them fit on the cavi!
Unless you are referring to Brian from GM Rev, whom you've never met.... technically you shouldnt have asked me that here...
however... Bryan from the shop, has a cobalt. So i will share my knowledge learned from what happened this weekend. (In a "this is what i did this weekend" post)
Cobalt LT and Cobalt LS, although both basically base models, with the LS having some trim accessories, have completely different fuel systems.
Bryan has an 2006 Cobalt LS
He accidentally screwed in to his gas tank, the only replacement tank he could get was from an 05 LT. At first he assumed the fuel pump and canister was the same, However it did not fit. So we went back to yard to get the 05 canister. but the guys at the yard cut a couple of the hoses trying to get it out. --- after making phone calls to see if anyone knew a ball park price on a replacement canister, and after GM Parts Direct showed no listing for the P/N. I suggested we go to Advance Auto and get 2 feet of fuel hose, and fuel resistant clamps. We patched up all the hoses and then came in to our second problem. The floats for measuring how much fuel in the tank, is different. The Cobalt LS uses Digital reading of the fuel, while the LT used Analog. the LS ECU has no way of reading what LT float is reading. so we eliminated it (he's planning on going back to the LS set up eventually, when he finds an LS tank)... next was the wiring, the wires going to the harness were in a different order and some of the sensors were in different locations. So i cut up the wiring and spliced it together so that his car would send power to the LS Pump.
After an 10 hr day of customizing, his car runs again.
oh lol the only place i ever cathc anymore is on here lol and i meant brian cobalt from the shop
Took honda side skirts and made them fit on the cavi!
bump
Was that a... Cav??
it used to be anyway.......
