where the runners start to turn down.
ok i understand the whole velocity thing and problem with opening the runners too much expecialy on an n/a car that has few mods...
howevwer im turboing mine. so more air being forced in. if i ported my intake would i see a noticable gain because im throwing more air in. witch means i can take a loss of velocity>? or what?
just cramming more air into the engine is not necessarily going to creat more power. in my opinion this is why hp is created with the le5 intake mani but torque is lost.
all your'e trying to do with this mod is portmatch the ports on the intake manifold to the head. that's it.
in the beginning of the thread someone said that the opening right inside the throttle body connection is very restrictive, and has tons of area's that can be ported. when i had mine off the car i didn't see any such area's. but then again i'm no expert on the subject. i did a little porting in that area but nothing extensive as honestly, i just don't have the knowledge to be just randomly porting area's to try to create better flow.
imo, yes whether your'e planning to stay n/a or looking to boost in the future this mod should help either way. like i said originally, all your'e trying to do is match the port sizes on the manifold to the head.
Wow!! I can't believe a wasted all this time reading about wheter simple port matching gains power.Any old school hot rodder knows it does.And then every four or five posts Mr Cheapskate has to ask wheter somebody has "dynoed" this yet?Tell you what.Get off your cheap ass and dyno it yourself because they already said twelve times that it felt a lot stronger and apparently they don't feel the need to dyno every mod they do.I only started to read this for info on Ecotec builds.Not very informative,guys.
As far the electrical question,I am a Interprovincial Journeyman Electrician with 30 years in the field who has also designed wiring harnesses for kit cars as well as being an Electrical Maintenance Technician so you'll have to take it on faith I know what I am talking about!!!Yes, the battery supplies your start-up,but it also supplies any surges above what your alt. is capable of handling.Yes,99% of your cars have a fusible link in that wire that meets the battery cable.It's to prevent damage to other components in your system.(Can any one say ECU,ECM,PCM, or fancy stereo pieces).The main reason you run oversized cables to your amps is to make a low resistance connection forestalling any voltage drop iin the circuit(the bane of any DC system)Distance and high resistance means you have no voltage at your amp and it begins to sound muddy.The bigger cables also don't heat up as much (heat also creates more resistance causing more voltage drop).Any large surges from your big amps are handling by your alt. and your battery, because most factory alts. typically are 105 amps RMS(average).Although your alt. could handle short surges if your battery was screwed,the extra amperage causes a voltage drop in your system.Since the electronics in your new cars are susceptible to voltage fluctuations this is not good.To prevent problems, upgrade your battery(CCA),your alt.(200amp aftermarket), and add capacitors close to your amps.Nuff said on that subject.
500 to1000 amps from an alt?LMAO And the AC in your alt. is transformed internally by a diode pack and the only external connections are DC.
Well good thing you cleared that up...just in time too...
D.Simoes wrote:Well good thing you cleared that up...just in time too...
Sorry about the rant but it seems that this forum is filled with people more inclined to attack each other rather than help others.It also seemed like a lot of disinformation was being passed along about car electrical systems I thought I would dispell.If any of you know of a thread covering mods to the LSJ intake manifold and intercooler or know of any parts #'s for a ported manifold it would be appreciated.
Oh,Simcoe,thanks for the sarcastic wit(I think this site needs a little levity)
Never heard of the placebo effect have you? If you are convinced that that new part you installed will make your car faster you will think it is whether it actually is or not. Hence why everyone wants dyno proof. Id rather have numbers than someones butt dyno feeling.
As far as capacitors in an audio system. They are useless as far as just about anyone Ive talked to in the audio world has said. Well besides in a high SQ install where the user is concerned with consistent voltage in a substage where the drum beats are transient and unconsistent.
Sorry, my butthole dyno is impervious to the placebo effect!!The fact that you don't trust your own perceptions means you're insecure and not "everyone" needs a dyno test everytime they spin a wrench!
As far as capacitors,think of them as an electronic battery which discharges faster than your auto battery can respond.It's response slows voltage sag giving your battery time to "catch up".Buddy, when it comes to electrical I am a phenom in theory as well as application,and I doubt I am going to listen to some car stereo salesman that you chat up once in awhile. Between my apprenticeship and electrical technician course I spent over 17 months in one of the best technical institutions in our country and 30 years in the field putting it to practice!!!
Sorry, my butthole dyno is impervious to the placebo effect!!The fact that you don't trust your own perceptions means you're insecure and not "everyone" needs a dyno test everytime they spin a wrench!
As far as capacitors,think of them as an electronic battery which discharges faster than your auto battery can respond.It's response slows voltage sag giving your battery time to "catch up".Buddy, when it comes to electrical I am a phenom in theory as well as application,and I doubt I am going to listen to some car stereo salesman that you chat up once in awhile. Between my apprenticeship and electrical technician course I spent over 17 months in one of the best technical institutions in our country and 30 years in the field putting it to practice!!!
Yes yes we're all impressed with your knowledge (and fine ass).
Can you go away now? Or at least be less of an ass.
This thread has seriously derailed from intake manifold talk.
Howard Miller wrote:Sorry, my butthole dyno is impervious to the placebo effect!!The fact that you don't trust your own perceptions means you're insecure and not "everyone" needs a dyno test everytime they spin a wrench!
Quantities transfer better from person to person than qualities.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Monday, January 31, 2011 9:44 AM
RoboticPotPie wrote:Yes yes we're all impressed with your knowledge (and fine ass).
Can you go away now? Or at least be less of an ass.
This thread has seriously derailed from intake manifold talk.
Was I the one who started the deviation to electrical talk?No!I was just trying to dispell some of the misinformation.
Was this still a discussion about manifolds?Seems like it had deteriorated to a pissing match.lol
Howard Miller wrote:
As far as capacitors,think of them as an electronic battery which discharges faster than your auto battery can respond.It's response slows voltage sag giving your battery time to "catch up".Buddy, when it comes to electrical I am a phenom in theory as well as application,and I doubt I am going to listen to some car stereo salesman that you chat up once in a while.
Coming from another experienced Electrician/Engineer, I approve of this message.
Even though this is off topic, and a couple months late, Aaand has nothing to do about intake manifolds.....
Too many damn people are misinformed in the audio scene and need to take a basic electricity course. Going from Audio install side jobs, to having an eng degree with a journeyman + I.P. Ticket, it's a complete 180.
omg back from the dead and yes it works. i port matched my le5 intake also.
see ya!
I have a BS in BS. A Master's in literature and a congratulations certificate from Clown College. Through my years of experience in horse whispering I discovered a secret to automotive performance. If you notice a vacuum leak you can easily fix this by plugging in your 12 volt car vacuum cleaner and attaching the suction side to any vacuum port.
Arggh, Cant believe I read that whole f - ing thread.
Jason Fogarty wrote:Arggh, Cant believe I read that whole f - ing thread.
I can't believe it's not butter
I have no signiture
I know this ids an old thread and kind of pointless... But has anyone tried this and ran it on a dyno just for @!#$s and giggles.?
I'd like to know as well..
I plan on getting a dyno run here in the next month or so, and I have an extra L61 manifold in my garage. I am going to shave out the ports on the extra one, and the place I am going does 3 passes for $75. So when I go I am going to ask if it is possible for them to do 2 passes with the unmodified intake, let my car off of the dyno and let me swap them out really quick and see if it does anything. What have I got to lose? It only takes a few minutes to swap one out, and if they don't let me do it, owell.
We have an awesome price on sheet metal aluminum intake manifolds on our side! Proven much stronger than the competition!
-Aaron
www.TurboTechRacing.com
Performance Parts For Cavalier, Sunfire, Cobalts and More!!!
Jake Boyd wrote:I plan on getting a dyno run here in the next month or so, and I have an extra L61 manifold in my garage. I am going to shave out the ports on the extra one, and the place I am going does 3 passes for $75. So when I go I am going to ask if it is possible for them to do 2 passes with the unmodified intake, let my car off of the dyno and let me swap them out really quick and see if it does anything. What have I got to lose? It only takes a few minutes to swap one out, and if they don't let me do it, owell.
Here's a 10 yr BUMP !!! Lol
