I am looking at getting a valve spring kit and see that some places sell just the springs, others springs and retainers and others springs, retainers, and seats. I am looking at getting the 78lb kit as I have read it is a direct drop in but most places you have to buy everything separately. So far I have found it on ebay and thmotorsports, checycavalierworld and a few other places (just from googling) and each on sells differently. I am trying to order from as few places as possible to try and save on shipping as I have ordered a lot from summitracing already (mostly generic stuff such as Earl's hoses, connecting rods and the bearings for said connecting rods(Sorry TTR as I would have ordered from you but you said that you were not able to get the bearings), and later on pistons, cams, head studs and gasket, valves, neutral shafts, etc, but they don't carry these. Someone did mention thm once already but they are one of the places that sell separately (costing a bit more than say the ccw listed at $355.00 but I have never heard of them aside from googling them). Thanks for any assistance and information.
I have a lot of information compiled on these topics; some of which I already made threads about. The reason you're having trouble finding a complete 78lb spring kit is because it was discontinued years ago in favor of the 75lb kit. Here's some information on why that happened:
http://www.j-body.org/forums/read.php?f=2&i=483730&t=483730
As you know, you'll need the inner spring, outer spring, seat, and retainer for the supertech kit. Stock locks can be reused, and I found the best option for new valve seals is a set of fel-pros from rockauto.com. DO NOT buy supertech valve seals as they have been known to leak for many people who have tried them. DO NOT run the 94lb springs from Supertech as they require the smaller supertech seals. TTR still has one of the best deals for these spring sets. ZZP also sells them but lists them as the 78s. If you buy them you will get 75s. Are you planning to install these on an l61 head or lsj head?
Now I'll ruin your life with this website:
http://www.fmsrperformance.com/
If you're planning to run neutral balance shafts (which I personally recommend), the fmsr pieces are lighter and cheaper than the gmpp's.
Last piece of info I'll toss out that not many know (and/or agree with) is the necessity of a torque plate to install head studs. If you don't use a torque plate you run the risk of bending the aluminum block and causing a failure (typically with a sleeve). Some people get away with it but one of my friends did not and it caused the sleeve to crack at the top and fall into the cylinder.
What rods/pistons/rings did you buy from summit? Curious about your goals and what power adder(s), if any, that you plan to run.
"In Oldskool we trust"
Thanks Y3llowCav I looked at that site and they have plenty of stuff I will be purchasing. Currently I have an Eagle Crank w/ ring, Eagle rods (I weighed them and they are all equal except 1
I may send it back and ask for another one, Clevite H bearings (these I wanted to get from TTR but they said they were unable to get them but I did find them from SummitRacing), driver's side knuckle, hub and caliper for the suspension upgrade (not sure if I am going to do it yet), the upgraded upper timing guide bolt from I can't remember his name Mike something (I blew up my other one), I plan on getting the shafts and the head I think I will just get one from there but it will be an L61 one as I would like to try and keep everything the same motor but in time maybe will switch it up. I will have to ask them for some information before purchasing though.
I did a lot of reading before hand on almost everything so I am familiar with most of the issues and things that can be done with the platform I have. I picked up a block today from a local wrecker as I have to replace my current one as I stated earlier blew the upper timing chain guide bolt (it was a bloody mess
lol. I did see though that it was stated some of the L61's used the oil pan for the lower mount but I cannot see any on mine so I think I am ok for that.
Are you planning on going turbo and BIG hp? Before I go any further, how do you feel about constructive criticism?
"In Oldskool we trust"
Y3llowCav wrote:
Now I'll ruin your life with this website:
http://www.fmsrperformance.com.
Oh my god. I had no idea about this website. I just spent an hour and a half browsing and pricing. I now hate you.
Currently #4 in Ecotec Forced Induction horsepower ratings. 505.8 WHP 414WTQ!!!
Currently 3rd quickest Ecotec on the .org - 10.949 @ 131.50 MPH!!!
Roofy wrote:Y3llowCav wrote:
Now I'll ruin your life with this website:
http://www.fmsrperformance.com.
Oh my god. I had no idea about this website. I just spent an hour and a half browsing and pricing. I now hate you.
Lmao! That's why I always warn people before showing them.
"In Oldskool we trust"
Y3llowCav wrote:Roofy wrote:Y3llowCav wrote:
Now I'll ruin your life with this website:
http://www.fmsrperformance.com.
Oh my god. I had no idea about this website. I just spent an hour and a half browsing and pricing. I now hate you.
Lmao! That's why I always warn people before showing them.
No. Really. You are a horrible person.
Currently #4 in Ecotec Forced Induction horsepower ratings. 505.8 WHP 414WTQ!!!
Currently 3rd quickest Ecotec on the .org - 10.949 @ 131.50 MPH!!!
No Y3llowCav is a good person lol because this place is really filled with goodies. I just got my credit card raised and I was planning on keeping my balance normal but after this site I highly doubt I can. I am waiting for some information from that site regarding some of their products but I think I will order a few things now to get the ball rolling.
there descriptions always amuse me. I cannot believe you guys never saw the site before.
"The FMSR Performance Stage 6 head is a Fu-kin Insane, Tricked out, Monster aluminum cylinder head, specifically for Sick Ass [60 - 99+PSI] tunes and performance applications." right from their site.
On the inside my car looks like a fighter jet.
Rob Dotterer wrote:there descriptions always amuse me. I cannot believe you guys never saw the site before.
"The FMSR Performance Stage 6 head is a Fu-kin Insane, Tricked out, Monster aluminum cylinder head, specifically for Sick Ass [60 - 99+PSI] tunes and performance applications." right from their site.
lol yeah he's a funny guy. He's on facebook and hits cobalt ss gang a lot.
To Todd,
Unless you're planning to make more than 650bhp a forged crank is really not necessary. Also, the stock bearings are better than you'd think. Someone correct me if I'm wrong but didn't GMR make almost 1000bhp on the stock bearings? Either way, interested to see what your plans are for this build.
"In Oldskool we trust"
Eventually I will be trying for above 700 but to start with I want to go slower in order to learn the tuning process with HPT and also how the vehicle reacts to engine and suspension upgrades. I did contact Eagle regarding their crankshaft as I wanted to make sure that the proper equipment was used and they said that the stock bearings (or Clevite's AL type bearings) can be used but they recommend for proper use that the Clevite H-bearings be used. I forget who it was but someone else told me that the stockers were fine and I would be wasting my money getting the 'H' but I didn't want to take the chance using the wrong product. I think the hardest thing to find will be a turbo manifold as I was wanting a top mount one that is tubular but may have to stick with a log one. I see a few vendors offer log manifolds and Atomic (the one who used to make the top one) no longer produces them due to lack of interest.
Someone (I believe PJ) found that on an L61 (without an external oil cooler), extreme rpm can take a toll on stock bearings. You could always tap for an external oil cooler, or plan to keep revs below 7500-ish.
I'd find someone with first hand experience with FMSR, with regard to their more one off products. I have not heard good things in general, but I'm not going to steer you away completely. I'm just advising some research with that company, for example what testing they've done that proves that particular head is "good to 99+ psi"
Aren't torque plates used when machining the bores?
Cinny wrote:Aren't torque plates used when machining the bores?
Should be. Also when installing head studs.
"In Oldskool we trust"
