Hey huge I installed the header and after a pain in the #&!*@?$& install got it welded and in place no I'm running extremely rich like going from 325 miles per tank to right around 200 , I'm looking at installing a 4 way heated sensor but am having a hard time finding which one to use as after talking with a automotive electrician I apparently have to find the right sensor so I don't throw off the computer off more


Modding my j since I found the org

You will be installing this and hooking it up to the stock harness? If so you have to go with the stock sensor and weld in a boss to accomodate it. Also if you need a lengthened harness let me know and I may be able to make you one.

Cool! You installed a header and now it's running rich! Where exactly is the question here? Spelling and grammar work wonders, both in speech and typing.

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jason norwood wrote:You will be installing this and hooking it up to the stock harness? If so you have to go with the stock sensor and weld in a boss to accomodate it. Also if you need a lengthened harness let me know and I may be able to make you one.

What? Narrowband 4 wire O2s and 1 wire O2s all thread in the same. If he was installing a wideband it might be a different story. Trash the 1 wire and wire in a 4 wire. Done.

Are you throwing any codes? When I put my header on I was throwing a code for insufficient O2 heat since the header moved the O2 too far out of the factory position. The remedy fro that is a 4-wire heated O2.

Here is a nice write that I followed to install mine. Just go to your local parts store and get a universal 4-wire O2 for a GM car. Pretty much all narrowband O2s work the same. They all reference the same voltage so you shouldnt have a problem.




Edited 2 time(s). Last edited Tuesday, April 02, 2013 7:39 PM

Thank you Brian, and excuse the grammar guys, Damn autocorrect is changing my words from my cellphone, also is any 4 way heated sensor going to work, I was told I have to find one that will work with our engines so that it doesn't cause more issues far down the road, thanks for your help.


Modding my j since I found the org

Bump


Modding my j since I found the org

Wow,

Thats too funny, branching off the heater circuit from the rear to run a upstream heated O2 huh??? lolz

jason norwood wrote:Wow,

Thats too funny, branching off the heater circuit from the rear to run a upstream heated O2 huh??? lolz

Please explain why. I pulled my heater circuit off of a blank fuse in the fuse block. And it still works almost a year after I did it. The girl I sold it to gets 30 mpg every day. It's just a 12v circuit. Why does it matter where you take it from as long as it's switched and the circuit is wired properly for the load. Seriously back up your comments or stop talking.

Alejandro the thread I linked gives you a Bosch number that works. The people at the auto parts store can cross reference that number to a compatible cheaper one. I got an NTK.

Because, working for one of the two brands you mentioned, I can tell you that there are issues with this. The problem here is the header and moving the sensor downstream is required apparently. The OEM's do not use this type of technology and have no interest in it (circuitry wise). Using a heater in the upstream sensor will not net you better gas milage, maybe consumption because of a quicker light off time ( ULFO OR FLO heater type ) as compared to the non-heated sensor, however after the sensor is lit off they operate the same as they are both switching sensors, its not like comparing a wideband to a switching sensor where you have AFR control. The ecu is still adding or subtracting fuel as compared to seeing an actual afr and controlling it directly through an IP and VS cell. There are also myths that the heater burns contaminents off and this is not actually true to the point where it would net you better milage. Also the heaters are not designed to handle the amperage of 90 percent of the circuit fuses in the the fuse box, this will also never allow the heater to be turned off, so within 30-60 seconds ( standard light off ) this heater has been ruined... I see them everyday.

So my point was that this is not a viable way to do this. There are 4 different types of heater elements used in the aftermarket and the tyoe dictates a pulsated 12 volt controller via the pcm, so simply powering it for too long will destroy the heater circuit. Being as thought the downstream sensor would need to be lit off longer than one upstream. Typically 85 percent of the OEM companies are using pulse width modulation n the downstream sensors to fight water and cold spots in the exhaust, this timer and turn on and off at anytime, we see this as a hig failure rate in the 4 wire sensors as techs are testing the ciricuit with a constant 12 volts, on a ULFO sensor ultra fast light off it reaches the 650 degrees within 6 seconds so after applying the 12 volts longer than that you have ruined the sensor. RVPS would be a whole different technology as to why this should not be done but this does not effect our platform so we will leave it out.

Either way once in closed loop both sensors will do the same thing and will not equate to better gas milage because after a certain ammount of time the heater on this platform does not turn on.... so where is the difference in the gas milage???

Except when the system doesnt enter closed loop because it doesnt see adequate temperature. AFAIK OBD2 cars will not enter closed loop if there is an O2 related DTC. Infinite open loop equates to bad mileage because the PCM is overfueling.

That is obvious...

"Upgrading" or hacking your way to a heated style sensor does not improve mpg. It may get you to closed loop quicker but your still waiting for the coolant temp at that point.

You were wrong.

No I wasnt wrong. You cant read. The first thing I asked was if he had an CELs. A heated O2 will fix an insufficient O2 heat code (which is the entire purpose of the link if you actually read it). If his O2 isnt reaching temp it will stay in open loop and overfuel.

Dont put words in my mouth. Show me where I made a blanket statement that installing a heated O2 will increase your MPG, and Ill gladly concede to you.

^^ what he said guys my problem is the sensor is not reading because of the temperature issue,a heated sensor will fix my issue, I'm having a automotive electrician do the install and soldering so everything is done proper.


Modding my j since I found the org