Here was the scenario;
This happened about 6-8 weeks ago, and the car has been sitting since. It was a really hot day, so I wasnt beating on the car because it naturally hates hot weather.
I was at a stop light, then when I accelerated there was this god aweful clanking. So I limped it home, and that is where it sits.
So far I have pulled the oil pan, and only found minimal shavings, mind you this build has less than 5000 miles on it, so thats not excess.
All the bearings look fine and feel tight.
Does anyone else have an idea what it could be.
I would just like to minimize the teardown, if I could pinpoint this issue.
Otherwise, its an overhaul, or a partout!!!
Just ignore the annoying belt squeak in the video.
The belt must have come missaligned, so im wondering if it the timing chain.
The idler pulley was very loose when I inspected it at home, so could the tensioner for the chain be bad, causing excess vibrations.
Causing the pulley to back out?
Does this sound like a chain slap?

PLEASE HELP!!!!!

[video]http://s116.photobucket.com/albums/o25/p4286arc/?action=view¤t=0730121934.mp4[/video]

When you post a vid from photobucket on here do not preview it, somehow it messes up the link. Just embedd or past the link without preview and it should work.










~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

MY VIDEO

Get rid of that belt squeak, can't here any thing over it. I hear something but I can't tell what over the high pitch squeak.


- Your not-so-local, untrained, uncertified, backyard mechanic. But my @!#$ runs

Yea kind of hard to hear over the squeaking, but what about the rockers? Have you pulled the valve cover to see if those are all nice and tight?

My guess:

idler pully
rockers
bearings











~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

WHITECAVY wrote:Yea kind of hard to hear over the squeaking, but what about the rockers? Have you pulled the valve cover to see if those are all nice and tight?

My guess:

idler pully
rockers
bearings

I know the belt is very very loud, but I cannot, and do not want to start it up again till its solved!
This was my thought this morning after listening to it multiple times.
Also the thought of a broken spring, and the piston slapping the valve.
I hope its a loose rocker, and it didnt cause too much damage.

From what you said and what I know about 2200s I'm going to say its a rocker that's out of adjustment. They make a hell of a clacking sound when they are loose.

Let us know what you find when you check it out.










~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

Im very anxious, but it will probably have to wait till sunday.
If its damaged, i hope it didnt effect anything else.
Everything in my head is custom pieces.
My Head Setup
Can you buy individual rockers?
Or will I be stuck with a whole set?

I actually had a rocker come loose once and it kinda rolled out of the way of the pushrod. So the pushrod would bounce off the cam and hit the inside of the valve cover. The pushrod got messed up, but the rocker was ok.





i find it amusing that SHOoff has nothing better to do but follow me around & be an unhelpful dick in even cross-forum. - Jon Mick

Ok;
So the rockers are tight, the poly locks are tight, and the pushrods are tight.
I took out the plugs and they are all carbon, so it was running really rich before hand.
I turned over the engine with the starter with out fuel and with out spark, and no noise resulted.
Now im confused?!?!?!

I need to rent a pulley puller to remove the timing cover.
But last night I also noticed the main bolt for harmonic balancer was loose.
So what ever the issue is, its affecting the belt assembly, this is two pulleys that are loose now.

ANY IDEAS!?

I was gonna say crank pulley, but figured you already checked that.

My crank bolt has backed out a couple of times, thank goodness for being bored and me checking things out to catch it. I eventually put locktite on that damn thing. I know your not supposed to, but I cant figure out why it keeps coming loose.










~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

Did yours clank when the bolt came loose?
My outter three bolts were tight, just the main middle one was loose.

Honestly never heard it because my car is so loud, so I dont know if it made noise or not.










~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

Id give the crank bolt a tighten and start it up. If its not making any sort of noise when your turning it over it might just be that.

Wouldnt be a bad idea though and check your timing set. Its pretty easy on our car. Could very well be a bad chain guide or something like that.

I think im going to just snug up the oil pan, then turn it over with no belt on.
I dont need any accessories just to start it for 10 seconds.
If the noise persists, it most likely going to be the timing set.
If its gone, then its something with the belt assembly.

I dont know when ill get around to this, hunting season just started,
and Im very busy with school and work!

Ok now its leading towards the timing chain tensioner.
I pulled the timing cover, and the tensioner fell apart.
The pin that holds the spring like piece of plastic (not the one you remove after installation), was broken.
Got a new one and hope to install this weekend.
Will post if this fixes it!

I hope you got a GM-replacement set, as not all aftermarket LN2 timing-sets fully met GM's standards. When mine--part of a cheapo reman engine install--failed after only 35k-mi., I decided not to screw-around & went straight to my local Chevy dealer for the factory pieces. This was in a pre-'98 S-truck app, where the average expected life is about 80-100k-mi. I've heard it's practically indefinite in the FWD apps, if it's maintained well. But yeah, don't cheap-out on that chain-set... or you might pay the price I did, just to lean the hard-way. Or worse, your engine might wind-up like mine was when I got the truck: Needed crank & bearing, oil-pump & pickup, and the lifters got clogged-up with fragments & died a slow death... Hence the reman install.


Go beyond the "bolt-on".

Well the tensioner didnt fix the noise.
However it did lessen it.

Nick, thanks for the input, but I will be lucky to put 35K on this car.
Its not my DD, and pushing 22 PSI, something else will go before that, I hope.

Now Im back to a full engine tear down.
I hope to pull it this weekend, and wheel the car out of the garage.
I need to make space for the boat.
Maybe I can get a better video.
Im just shooting in the dark now, but maybe a cam bearing, of a lifter?
Since the tensioner was bad, excess vibrations were going thru both the crank gear and cam gear due to the floppy timing chain.
This leads me to think that this could have worn the end most bearing.
If the damage involves engine machining, I will probably end up parting out the car.
This has consumed too much money, for the little bit of return it has provided me.
It might be time to buy a house with a big garage and modify my boat and camper.

Okay, stupid question here, but... Did you replace the entire timing-set this effort, or just the tensioner? Because it's pointless to do just part of the set, much like how it's pointless to serve a multi-course dinner without a complete set of utensils. (Fork, knife, spoon....)

But anyway, taking this a bit further--just as a head's-up--here's a little something about the LN2 that most don't realize or share: The oiling system was designed to give priority (Feed first before anything else) to the lifters & cam bearings, as a method of controlling lifter & cam-bearing noise at cold start-up for the sake of having a good NVH (Noise, vibration & harshness) review. After-all, the J-car was being built as it was partially to offset CAFE sums for the given model-year... and to make sales with customers that would otherwise go to the Japanese, perhaps, if it was a rattle-trap in-light of whatever economy it got.

Wrapping-up: Because the priority is as-such, anything in the pan that the pump picks-up gets feed right to the cam-bearings & lifters. This is what happened with my '94 S-truck, all because some hammer-wrench of a mechanic failed to remove the fragments of the old timing-set from the pan, after it gave-up, when installing the new one! Hence all the troubles I had.

So, if I were you... I'd recheck that oil-pan & prepare for the worse. Otherwise, always replace things that have multiple pieces as a set.




Go beyond the "bolt-on".

Nick, thanks for the input.

Yeah I replaced the chain and tensioner.
Even before reading your post,
I was leaning towards a collappsed lifter, or cam bearing.
I have done multiple startups, and have not installed any gaskets.
Oil pan, and timing cover are just bolted on.
I didnt want to waste all the time, effort and money, just to replaces multiple gaskets without solving the problem.
As it sits now, I only need to remove the block and head.
All the intake, charge pipe, turbo manifold, turbo, downpipe, battery and exhaust are all removed.
I also removed the roller rockers, and pushrods, none of which had any damage.
What I coud see of the lifters through the head, all the cups looked good.
I will have to disassemble them and see how the guts look, since I did the hybrid SBC lifter conversion, I have some extras hanging out.
Im hoping to get this out tonight and put it on a stand this weekend, and give it a good look over.
I consider myself a pioneer with the 2200 and did know what you posted, but that is good information for the newb reading these posts.
I hope to figure this out, other wise im parting it out.
It will cost $500+ to reassemble.
New cometic HG, all new arp studs, misc gaskets and fluids.
And if the issue cannot be found, it might be a lost cause.

I dig ya', Bobby.

And thank-you. Good-luck with solving the problem... Hope you don't have frags in the galley. When I did speak with the shop that did my '94's swap, they claimed to have found the lifters "difficult-to-impossible to remove" because of what-happened while it was in the hands of previous owners. What a nightmare!


Go beyond the "bolt-on".

So friday I started to pull the motor.
I went to grab the head, to lift it off the motor.
I grabbed the engine mount bracket on the left of the head, and the ignition coil mounting plate on the right of the engine.
As I went to lift, I thought I felt the head shift.
NOPE .....
The big cast engine mount bracket was loosely and barely still attached to the head!!!!!
One of the bolts was missing, and the other 3 were loose.
Could having poly mounts for everything cause this?
All of these bolts were installed with loctite!
So after noticing this, I still pulled the engine.
This will give me time to look over everything.

So starting from the original problem .....
I believe that this bracket loosened up before anything happened.
This caused the alternator and PS pulley to be missaligned.
Which cause vibrations in the belt system, and afected the harmonic balacer.
This then threw vibration into the timing assembly, causing the tensioner to meet its demise.

I will still keep this going as I run across things.
As of now the car is out of the garage, engineless, sitting in the driveway.
The boat took its place in the garage for the winter.