So as my build comes to an end im left with the question. What oil should I use on my first couple oil changes? I know for the break in you change the oil a lot. But should i use synthetic or conventional oil? Conventional oil had higher zinc content so should i use that? I don't know... Can someone kinda break down the steps to breaking in the motor and what oil I should use for the break in and afterwards? I'm not touching royal purple. Mobil 1 or that new hybrid recycled oil is what I'm looking at using once the break in is done. Any comments? I want this motor to last a minute.
I don't think auto manufacturers use any special break in oil anymore. I think they just use regular oil. So I'd say run whatever you plan on running in it.
i find it amusing that SHOoff has nothing better to do but follow me around & be an unhelpful dick in even cross-forum. - Jon Mick
according to the GM service bulletin....if it says Mobile 1 on the cap...then the engine was broke in with mobile 1.
I used Mobile 1 synthetic to break in MY engine. Just changed the oil often...never had a single problem.
I break engines in with conventional, since i'm changing the oil in 500 miles... then Mobil 1 full syn for life
high zinc for break in, id say id change it after the 1st 100 miles, 500 miles, 1000 miles then put in what I plan to run for its life.
I always start with the cheapest oil I can get. I've had someone get me oil from a dollar store once. I run it in the engine for 15-30 miglnutes and replace with better conventional oil and run it for 500 miles. Change it again with regular conventional oil run it for 1000 miles and then do it again at 2500 total miles. Then I switch to what ever oil will be used from there out.
"Oil Leak ? What oil Leak ? Oh, Thats Just The Sweat From All The HorsePower!!"
Okay thanks guys. How would you drive the car during the first 3k? Drive it hard or irritatingly lightly?
very your rpm.... Ive always lived by the break it in like you will be driving it.... so i beat the hell out of all of the ones we have done. get the rings seated as soon as possible and then enjoy it.
hell you can seat the rings on the damn engine stand if you want. most engine builders turn the engine over several times during the bearing install process to make sure they are the right size, etc.
then if you do things right you'd be putting the starter on the engine and turning it over to check oil pressure as well as compression pressures.
all that adds up.
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I usually try to break it in with a trip out of town, I get on the interstate in 5th and go Wide open throttle. This keeps my RPMs in the mid range but adds considerable cyl pressure to help seat the rings.
Good deal. I want to do it right the first time. To check the oil pressure you would use the spot were the oil pressure sender is right? And random question how could i clean the injectors? Just wipe them off or is there a solution I could soak them in?
I used a port on my exhaust cam... but i think only 2.3 towers have an oil port on the exhaust cam that's already drilled and tapped. I also did a compression test when i first put the motor together.
was mine with 11:1 comp .020 over pistons and .430 lift .222dur cams with a .020 head deck and 1mm over sized valves.
Edited 2 time(s). Last edited Sunday, May 20, 2012 8:40 PM
Stupid question but how do you do a compression test? The way I had to do it was pull a spark plug and find a way under the idi cover. And with 9:1 .020 pistons and stock cams what should i expect? What about with w41 cams with no tune?
Use Brad Penn Break-In Oil. This is what we use when we are building race engines for drag racing. It's used by Cagnazzi Power, Allen Johnson Motorsports and The whole Summit Racing Team (Jason Line and Greg Anderson). If it's good enough for a $125,000.00 Pro Stock Engine, it'll work wonders on ours!
I used cheap cheap conventional oil for the first start up, and let it get up to operating temperature. Then go out for a drive variating the RPMs. I go idle to 2000, and let the engine brake the car. Leave it in low gear. Next go idle to 3000"". Then idle to 4000"". Then idle to 5000"". Then idle to redline"" Then drive around town, and keep the engine at various RPMS. After about 50 miles I check the oil.
I then go do more driving, and I like to go down long hills, and let the engine brake the car the entire way down the hills. This will really seat the rings. At about 100-200 miles I change the oil. Than at 1000 miles I change the oil. Still all cheap conventional. High zinc content is preferred. At 3000 I switch over to synthetic oil. Its a lot of oil changes, but I rather get any metal chip out of the oil.
I "REALLY" prefer to break in the motor on a dyno.
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
That'd be awesome if there were dynos around here. I heard to start the car for ten minutes and so an immediate oil change. Then go driving for 100mi and do another then 1.5k then the full 3k then synthetic. But correct me if that's not proper. Would an nrg magnetic oil drain plug help catch any chips?
-Z Yaaaa- wrote:ur stock oil plug has a magnet. 
when did that end? neither of my eco's had magnetic ones.
Ohh Damn. I didn't know i guess I never really tested it. But but the nrg ones have purple! Lol. So hoe do you know if the rings are seated?
My 2000 oil pan came with a magnetic plug as well as the 1997 block/oil pan i got off Clyde.
How do you know the rings have seated?
