I have rebuilt many engines in the past but the GMPP build book states that you can rebuild the ecotec right in the car without having to bore it out or hone the cylinders if you use the same rings in the same locations that they were in. In the past rebuilding small block chevy's I have always removed the engine and bored the engine out, honed it with a ball hone and installed over sized pistons to compensate for the newly bored out cylinders. I would like to rebuild it the way that the GMPP build book states if it actually works, has anyone else replace their rods and pistons without honing the cylinders??? What are my options when it comes to this, could I just hone the cylinders without boring it out and use new piston rings??
Extra Info: I am running the HRC stage II at about 8psi now and will be running 15psi shortly after the engine build and portfueler install, I will be using eagle rods and wiseco 8.9:1 CR pistons.
1st the eco is a sleeved engine, so there is no need to bore it out.
Yea, you dont have to remove the engine to rebuild it. Removing it makes things easier. Skunk(member on here) put new pistons and rods in his eco without removing it from the car. As long as the crosshatch pattern is still good and there is no big lip on the top of the cylinder, i dont see why you would HAVE to hone it out.
you can hone the cylinders while in the car with a cordless drill, but ive always felt better have it all out so all tolerances could be checked properly. thats too much money to be risking
Built&Boosted moar
04 Cavalier Turbo r.i.p my baby
2nd place 2009 GM tuner bash qwick 8--holla
thanks for the quick responses and advice
should I still use the same rings like GMPP says to as to maintain the same seal as the stock pistons did, or should I replace them only if I hone the cylinders?
Ok so after searching through the forums I found that this one is the closest to my question. I am currently rebuilding the bottom end of my Ecotec and doing a F23 swap in the process. I have decided that I am using Wiseco 8.9:1 CR pistons and Eagle HBeams rods. My questions is I am replacing the rod/main bearings as well and I am wondering if a stock journal size(.000, I believe) will work for this setup. My crank is not turned down. I would say that that Clevite .000 rod bearings will be perfect.
Am I right?
You drive a cavalier? Why yes... yes I do.
Nothing wrong with OEM bearings...
And they are very inexpensive.
Ya I honestly hadnt even thought about OEM bearings. But nonetheless .000 is good right?
You drive a cavalier? Why yes... yes I do.
One other question. Using OEM main/rod bearings will hold up for a build engine on 10-20lbs of boost?
You drive a cavalier? Why yes... yes I do.
Tyler Ewy wrote:Ok so after searching through the forums I found that this one is the closest to my question. I am currently rebuilding the bottom end of my Ecotec and doing a F23 swap in the process. I have decided that I am using Wiseco 8.9:1 CR pistons and Eagle HBeams rods. My questions is I am replacing the rod/main bearings as well and I am wondering if a stock journal size(.000, I believe) will work for this setup. My crank is not turned down. I would say that that Clevite .000 rod bearings will be perfect.
Am I right?
You'd probably have a better response had you created a new thread... Bringing back 3 year old thread leads to confusion for those who seldomly look at the year when things were posted.
The only bearings i would run in my car are the clevites... but the 2.4 is a different beast than the eco. Personally i'd mic the crank and make sure it doesn't need to be turned down, otherwise, i'd run 0s...
Ok, I was planning on running Clevites for my rods and just going OEM for main. Thanks guys.
You drive a cavalier? Why yes... yes I do.
Use the TM-77'S that is what I am running witht he ceramic coating on them....
Ya its a oil shedding coating. Thought it was ceramic...
It wouldn't be a oil shedding coating either.
