hey fellas, ben a long time since i posted but i do keep up to date with sum things happenin around j-body site, need to replace my motor whicj is 2.4 2000 pontiac sunfire, engine has started to knock at 2000rpm or higher and as of this morning knockin at idle, oil pump has been changed, the thing is that i changed oil pump after noticing oil pressure dropped from 40 to 20, the oil pump is a melling,, so plans are to get a brand new motor that is built or rebuild what i got for sum major horsepower with supporting parts, please no bashing . i would like ideas from the most experienced guys with our motors, not trying to go cheap , but a good quality build and mild racing, really considering going for time attack, just somethin different from the norm...totally serious about this so let me know..thx in advance...
2.3 oil pump swap, eagle rods, bore .060 over with either flat top pistons (close to stock compression depending on other stuff) or domed pistons (around 10:1 - 10.5:1 compression depending on other stuff).
mild ported head/ss valves/ho 2.3 springs and retainers/35mm 2.3 lifters/ho cams
ho intake manifold/56mm tb, decent header... dc sports, bills/stans, pacesetter all good shorty designs and a full exhaust.
and of course the bolt ons, cold air intake with good filter, solid or poly mounts, better fuel injectors over stock... 320cc rc engineering's should suffice and give great atomization.
dyno tuned with hp tuners. welcome to 190-200whp and low 14s on street tires n/a.
-Z Yaaaa- wrote:2.3 oil pump swap, eagle rods, bore .060 over with either flat top pistons (close to stock compression depending on other stuff) or domed pistons (around 10:1 - 10.5:1 compression depending on other stuff).
mild ported head/ss valves/ho 2.3 springs and retainers/35mm 2.3 lifters/ho cams
ho intake manifold/56mm tb, decent header... dc sports, bills/stans, pacesetter all good shorty designs and a full exhaust.
and of course the bolt ons, cold air intake with good filter, solid or poly mounts, better fuel injectors over stock... 320cc rc engineering's should suffice and give great atomization.
dyno tuned with hp tuners. welcome to 190-200whp and low 14s on street tires n/a.
^this
Plus:
- OEM GM headgasket.... Felpro is junk, Cometic is worse... (just ask all the ppl that have had to separate the layers and coat each layer with copper spray to prevent leaking after 200 miles)
- 2.5" Exhaust piping... 3" is overkill unless you b00st
- LSJ (Cobalt SS Supercharged) Muffler
- Flowmaster Hushpower2 Shorty Muffler (used in place of the stock resonator)
- LSJ Injectors work very well in these cars. Just a slight fuel rail modification. You can pick them up on the cobalt sites for about $50 bucks a set usually
while you are at it... if you have the money to burn
- Bully stage 4 sprung 6 puck clutch (i assume you have a 5 speed)
- Reduce 3 lbs off the crank shaft
- Balance the crank shaft
- Balance the rods and pistons
- Get a Light weight Flywheel
- ARP Main studs
- Polish the head (with the mild port above)
- ARP Head Studs
If you REALLY have the money to burn:
- Get Ron's header (which is a long tube style and runs about $600 or so)
- Get Eagle to make longer rods, and get your piston manufacturer to move the wrist pin up equally higher in the piston...
also make sure you have your block tested for core shift before boring out more than .040...
Just put a new crank in, use clevite bearings. If your on a budget. That is all you really need to do.
I didnt reasd the entire post before. If you want serious hp you need a lot of time to find parts and a very larg budget. I guess it depends if you want to go boosted or na. Boosted would be your easiest way to get bigger numbers. Wether you go boosted or na try to find the lightest valve train parts you can find. Better springs and cams that will work with what you want. I believe fetter has some of the biggest hp numbers and uses ho cams.
Mystic02VA (GME Chat) wrote:
- OEM GM headgasket.... Felpro is junk, Cometic is worse... (just ask all the ppl that have had to separate the layers and coat each layer with copper spray to prevent leaking after 200 miles)
Lol, I guess thats what they get for not remembering to re-torque the head studs after the first heat cycle and/or not torquing the head to cometic's spec.
1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by:
Kronos Performance
WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer
Huh, wonder why they work for other engines really well.
1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by:
Kronos Performance
WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer
For the 2.4 it is hit and miss. My first one was great. the next two leaked.
hey hey fellas thx for the combacks, good info i cant use already started shopping lis tand then i'll go from there, the one issue i see having is the tuning, around my area there really no one that has the experience with our motors or with tuners that i can rely on, leaning towards boost would like a motor that can handle about 20lbs, but probably 10 or so for normal driving, but also looking for dependibility and longevity, HP goals about 400, suspension already in the works, going with tein's ss and exhaust already worked out for the build, already looking into tranny build also, i must say that after 122,000 original, it did very well for me consideing the weight and what i have put it threw. hp tuners in the works with laptop adjustability whenever needed, already lookin into big brake conversion and rear disc set up, looks like i'm leaning towards a streetable sunfire mayhem but can do sum damage at track..thx again for input and , more then welcome to keep them coming, now gotta look at where to shop, O.E.M AND TTECH ON LIST....
hey brodycog gimme more info if possible on crank and bearings, if you know where to get said items let me know , just in case, being prior military , always have a back up plan...
You can get clevite 77 bearings from any parts shop... (i knew i forgot something in my list)
as for the crank, mine is reground .25 with .25 over bearings... its probably cheaper to regrind the crank to correct scarring left by the bad bearings
Yeah i agree with mistic. Have it reground it will be cheaper, get clevit 77 bearings. You can also have your crank lightend wich might help with quicker revs. Ipperfomance also has a master build kit that comes with weisco pistons for around 1200 bucks. You can order your pistons with low cr for boost or you can get higher cr for na.
^^^^ * or get the stock compression with flat tops just like you did.
Good info guys, talk to a builder today and for 2500. it'll get me everything built but very much close to stock, i think i could get a better build with performance stuff for less, correct me if wrong, also if any builder from here can perform a good quality, reliable and great performance build, willing to discuss terms and build and goals, i also understand tranny needs to perform as well as engine willing to upgrade that as well, suspension is gettin done and exhaust, and i gotta find someone close to me that can tune the engine really good, gonna take out motor and tranny and work from there, so if i gotta deliver motor to builder i can arrange.
My stock pistons were dished. . My aftermarket pistons were flat top and larger bore. So i guess they were highrer than stock compression.
lol touche! prolly 9.8:1 ish i would assume...
SEAL TRIX wrote:Good info guys, talk to a builder today and for 2500. it'll get me everything built but very much close to stock, i think i could get a better build with performance stuff for less, correct me if wrong, also if any builder from here can perform a good quality, reliable and great performance build, willing to discuss terms and build and goals, i also understand tranny needs to perform as well as engine willing to upgrade that as well, suspension is gettin done and exhaust, and i gotta find someone close to me that can tune the engine really good, gonna take out motor and tranny and work from there, so if i gotta deliver motor to builder i can arrange.
The stock Getrag 5 speed transmission can put up with a lot...
but if you wanna upgrade it, cryotreat the gears, and put a Quaife LSD in it...
I just did a stock rebuild for $800 including a new crank.
So far I'm at about $2500 including an md pulley and aluminum flywheel. Je pistons, eagle rods, ss valves, new crank, coated bearings, 2.3 pump swap, cometic gasket, and all other engine gaskets.
"Oil Leak ? What oil Leak ? Oh, Thats Just The Sweat From All The HorsePower!!"
i spent about $4000
includes: block modified for 2.3, oil pump and acc, miller performance modified pan
reground .25 crank: Removed 3 lbs installed 2.3 oil pump gear. Balanced
Eagle Rods
Wiseco 10.5:1 comp pistons
balanced rods and pistons together
Clevite 77 .25 over bearings
light weight flywheel
Bully stage 4 clutch
OBX crank pully
MD alt pully
Powedercoated block, md alt pully, timing housing, oil pan, cam towers
Fully ported and polished head
si valves 1mm over
ho springs
titanium retainers
ho lifters
.430 lift .222 dur crane cams, with modified intake housing and HO exhaust housing
ron header
atomic 2.5" custom exhaust
lsj muffler
QTP 3" cutout
(all exhaust thermochromed)
HP Tuned
gasket kit
OEM GM Head Gasket
AEM UEGO Wideband
im sure im forgetting something... $4000 went a long way...
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Sunday, October 16, 2011 6:34 AM
-Z Yaaaa- wrote:lol touche! prolly 9.8:1 ish i would assume...
lol maybe idk. But it sounded mean had a nice. Lope.
good input guys , car is parked and this weekend starts the strip down....plan of doing alot of good stuff thx to ur inputs, and you'll be hearing much more from me.....
